Nope, never used Mayflash but now that you said that, I won’t lol. I’ll look for something else to mod. I actually got my T5 from a share so I do not have a share to give.
As far as the buttons go, I couldn’t remove them without taking out something else I didn’t want to remove so I actually just erased them with the eraser tool.
Read the opening post, and I just want to make sure I have one thing absolutely correct before I start on the stick. Quote from Dominologic in the first post says that you only need one ground wire from the pcb to connect to the black ground from a jlf, right? So I can cut off the other three grounds on the pcb? Counterhit said he put all the grounds into one terminal bracket with the black ground, but cutting them would be a lot cleaner.
Damn, I just formatted my pc yesterday, no photoshop. If I can find my copy somewhere, I’ll get it to you tonight, if I can’t I’ll get it done on my laptop at work tomorrow if someone doesn’t do it before then.
Kit- I just put all the grounds from the joystick side of pcb with the ground from the harness. But yes, you can cut them too. Just put some hotglue on that part of the pcb where you cut it.
thanks in advance if you do the template fix for me.
Hey what are people using for these 2 cord coming out of the stick? I need something that works better the pull ties which is what I am using now. They keep the cords together, but the pull ties scratch like a mother. There has to be something better to use.
What about something like an expandable wire sleeve? I haven’t had to try anything like that for my sticks, but it looks like it should do the trick.
http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=50-018-B0&Click=4105
does this help?
http://www.sendspace.com/file/0r7ckk
photoshop was giving me some funny (ignorable though, i think) messages so if it turns out to be weird thats probably why. i dont think theres anything wrong though.
I got it for him already, pm’d him a few hours ago.
realyst, you can probably use shrink tubing on it or something similar.
Thanks for the template guys
Im trying to mod my T5 stick I already my sanwa buttons and pixieglass all i need is the art but dont really know how to do it so if theres anyone who can help or anyone who makes art templates im tryin to get this image thanks:wonder:
You just want the clouds?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d171/Kitsunisan/CloudsT5.png
I’ll upload the template and edit this post with it in a few minutes.
Here it is: http://rapidshare.com/files/277099410/Clouds_T5.psd
That looks great:bgrin: And yes just the clouds cuz the plexi i bought has Etching so for it to show i went with a dark artwork but it looks great button logos thanks kitsunisan :chat:
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=about&sub=custom#butetch
Yo, if I wanted to just swap out the restrictor plate on a stock t5, would either of these work?
I just can’t stand that square gate anymore
sorry, but neither of those will work. Kobal confirmed that the ls56 wont work afew pages back. ANd im about 99% sure the ls32 round gate wont work either.
My guess is that you’re going to have to do serious surgery on a stock Hori T5 joystick (the OEM stick that comes in the bundle) to get what you want.
I don’t think you can “Frankenstein” the Hori parts to fit in Seimitsu or Sanwa restrictor gates. You might actually have to cut/dremel the plastic bottom of the stick base.
Here’s the thing –
You probably shouldn’t do this unless you have a spare white plastic stick casing to throw away in case you screw up!
With a spare/replacement T5 white casining, you might be able to create a round gate. I doubt you can dremel cut one out neatly in the original PVC plastic but you might be able to cut out a big enough opening to put in another (flat) piece of PVC with a round hole the diameter of the original square gate. You want to preserve the original diameter otherwise you alter all the stick characteristics – throw, recentering, etc. Do you understand what I’m saying here? Again, don’t attempt this without another (lower stick) plastic base component otherwise you will end up with a stickless base and be forced to go for an entirely new stick.
You may eventually getting a new stick to put in the T5 base at any rate. Most us go with the JLF (exactly what I did with all my Tekken 5 mods) since that’s the easiest replacement stick to put in and requires the least amount of physical mods to the stick itself – basically you’re drilling holes through the Sanwa restrictor gate to reuse the original mounting plate screws and that’s it. Every other replacement Seimitu or Sanwa stick I can think of requires removing the welded mount in the T5 faceplate, countersinking holes, and putting in a new mounting plate. That’s just a big pain unless you can weld or have a friend who can do at least part of that for you.
P.S. – When I’m finally able to sell components in the Trading Forum in October, I’m going to be selling off salvaged Hori components from all my Tekken 5 stick mods as well as extra Sanwa and Hori Quick Disconnect pushbuttons. I’ve got more components that I don’t see myself reusing, too, but I better just shut up and wait until October to advertise.
Square gates themselves aren’t that bad but are easier to get adjusted to if you use another stick with a octagonal/round gate. You get used to quarter-circle and other rolling movement on the octo/round gates which makes it easier to go back and round the corners on a square gate-equipped stick.
Ya i have already bought a Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/images/for_sale/joysticks/sanwa_gty.jpg witch i already have on my hori ex2 for my xbox360
hey kitsunisan im having trouble downloading the template it keeps telling me it corrupted any advice im really not a computer wiz
It worked fine for me, I downloaded the file and opened it. Are you using Photoshop?
Thats the problem i dont have photoshop and do you know anyone who can print and make this image for me online doesnt
Well, if you take it to a Kinkos to print it, they have photoshop, make sure to check the layers, you should probably turn off the cut layers and the white area before printing it.
Yup, that’s what they use. Took about 15-20 minutes to do 8 buttons.
