Thanks for the pics. Hopefully they’ll have these cap sockets at a hardware store – I feel weird trying to find these things on eBay.
If not, I’ll just try to find another set of matching cap sockets and nuts to work with.
good stuff GC, have you ever thought of using a small amount of jb weld instead? if done correctly i would think it would have a better hold. Maybe ill try it out. Plus i should be able to find those screws with a standard phillips head pattern right? I tend to have a screwdriver close to me compared to a hex key. I would probably have a spare dozen for my sticks for when they start to strip.
Edit-when i have some time to work on one of my own sticks, ill be dropping in a jlw in one of my t5 cases. Ill pick some of those screws up. Im betting that the best way to do this mod for me would be secure the new screw with the original nut minus the washer onto the case. Then using a long q-tip apply jb weld all around the nut making sure to make plenty of contact with the plastic of the case and the nut. Better becareful not to get any on the screw though. Might be pretty tough to try to unscrew it after it dries. lol
I think Gorilla glue would probably work better than JB Weld.
I really don’t like those two-mix glues and putties too much to be honest. They’re stinky, oily, and just generally make a mess. They also don’t work well with every material. Gorilla glue will definitely bond ANY two things together!
My concern about Gorilla glue is getting any of it on the cap socket screw’s threading. If you get ANY of it on the threading and put it into the hex nut you are screwed. You will NOT be able to get the cap socket out of the hex nut no matter what you do after that stuff dries. Better to let the hex nut dry in position WITHOUT the cap socket in it.
That’s the advantage of using hot glue.
Doesn’t matter if you get it on the cap socket threading – it won’t bond to it permanently. I can have the cap socket tightened into place before I hot glue the hex nut to the T5 base and take it off a day later. No worries about permanently bonding the cap socket to the hex nut accidentally!
It’s very hard to get the hex nut into position accurately on the HRAP casing. Those spaces are tight and you’d have to use pliers AFTER laying down the Gorilla glue around the hole OR putting Gorilla glue on the hex nut first then laying the nut into position.
The MadCatz TE, which I regard as inferior to the HRAP materially and in a few other ways, is much easier to use Gorilla glue on. That case you can take apart and lay down the hex nuts into position much easier.
The HRAP case is basically one honking big piece of plastic that doesn’t come apart! It’s probably cheaper to manufacture (at this point in time at any rate) than the TE casing but it really frustrates some aspects of modding with its tight spacing on the reverse side of the faceplate base and the inability to “break” the main casing apart as it were.
GC- I might try today actually. I think ill use alittle of your method. IM gonna secure the screw and nut with just alittle hot glut on 2 sides. Let it sit for a day. Then im gonna take the screw out and apply some crazy glue to the sides that dont have hot glue. I think that would be a very secure hold. That way i dont have to worry about getting any on the threads. Should work pretty well.
Oh, just got the ls32 installed acouple of mins ago.
I had to smooth out the surface from where the mounting plate used to be, used my dremel for that
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/2.jpg
Then i drilled the holes after using the LS plate as a stencil. Used my 12volt hand drill. Just have to use a little force/weight when drilling into the plate. after you drill it youll have alot of excess metal on the other side, good thing my dremel was still out. lol
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/4.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/5.jpg
Once the mounting surface was smooth i did a test fit. Using the stock ls plate the shaft will stick out from the base about 25mm which is WAY too high. So i used some washers, I doubled up on the washers since i like my sticks at 23mm. But 23-24 is ideal. Also i had to pick some screws that were alittle longer.
NOTE
If using arthongs plexiglass you will not need the washers.
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/6.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/8.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/9.jpg
After that, i remounted the LS and it sat right at 23mm. So all is well. Now i need to do the wiring and this badboy will be done. Hope the customer im doing this for sees how much work i put into this. lol Mistcore is a cool cat though.
notethe screws arent tightened all the way in the first pic, i was too busy taking a pic, it goes all the way down.
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/91.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/92.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/LS32%20in%20T5/93.jpg
Ill post some pics of the actual finished product when im done.
here’s my t5. dual mod with a cthulhu pcb a madcatz 360 pcb and imp board. sanwa stick and buttons, except the back buttons, they are 24mm seimitsu. art’s plexiglass on top.
Of course,
Nobody has to do what I suggested about the hex nut installation.
Glue it with whatever works for you.
I’m just paranoid :looney: and went with heat gun glue since I know how that stuff works.
If the HRAP case could be disassembled like I’ve seen the MadCatz TE can be in another thread, then I wouldn’t be against Gorilla glue/JB Weld so much. It’s just maneuvering parts in that tight HRAP underspace space is kind of difficult. :chainsaw:
Actually, I modded both of my T5s with hot glue on your suggestion and with the exception of one minor screw up it worked great.
They are bonded on there tougher than Hell and it’s a lot easier to work with now. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
All the stuff written in this thread are just suggestions…
Nobody has to do things EXACTLY like the mod guide and most of us have done a few things differently and come up with our own spins on the mod.
The two things I’ve done with my T5 mods (and God willing I will NEVER do another T5 mod again after number 4!) are put in the cap socket screws to make the faceplate easy to remove and also I cut away (with a small hacksaw) the plastic bridge in the upper left of the case that held the turbo switches for the HRAP sticks. It wasn’t needed for anything on this stick and cutting away that bridge makes space for adding another connector cord to the stick in case I want to make the modded stick multi-console compatible.
Chances are I’ll rip out my Hori PCB in the future and replace it with a UPCB so that I can use the same stick for PS2/PS3, Saturn/Dreamcast, and Mac/PC. I’ve already drilled holes for an extra connector cord in 3 of my T5 cases. If I don’t end up selling the Hori PCB that came with the T5 stick to another stick modder, I might just cut off the connector from it and pitch the rest of the PCB. Seems like a waste though as PS2 extension cords are still fairly plentiful or a broken PS2 pad’s cord can be cut and used instead. Most people here wouldn’t want to buy a T5 PCB without the connector cord on it. It’s sort of a pain to have to solder in a new cable for that PCB!
Finally finished the wiring for this stick. Everything works perfect now. Just waiting for the artwork and plexi and this baby will be ready to go.
I havent used an LS32 for like 4 years. After playing some sf4, kof 98/00/02, MVC2 and Jojo Bizarre adventure im def gonna have to throw one of these in one of my t5 cases. I like the shorter throw. I can do mad dash cancel with ease on mvc2. Using the jlf i accidentally do a super sometimes.
For those of you that may know, do the seimitsu ps-14-kn buttons have the same feel as the ps-14-gn? or is the difference purely cosmetic? Screw type of course.
Anyone in here dual modded their t5 using the t5 pcb with a 360 pcb?
If so, are there any guides/screenshots of how I’d wire the t5 pcb to the 360 one?
GC- props to you. I ended up being lazy and not wanting to do a multiple step version of how you did it. So i used the hot glue, and it worked out great. Im gonna do it on all my t5 sticks. Thanks alot.
Shin- Dont know if theres a diagram showing which is ground and signal on the t5 pcb. But im pretty sure it easy to figure out if you follow the traces. The yellow pin/wire is the 3.3volt that youll need to tap into for the dual mod. other than that it just like any other terminal based dual mod. What stick are you using, because there wont be much clearance for both pcbs depending on the stick.
I have. Go here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=172666
It doesn’t use the Hori PCB, but the only difference is where the 3.3V on the PCB is.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3871/86501795.jpg
Yellow pin = 3.3V. Ground can be taken at any ground point, though I think it’d easiest to do it from any of the common grounds from the joystick wires.
Take the info from the beginning of this thread and apply it to the tutorial listed above and you should be fine.
Thanks.
@AJ, well I have a Hrap3 and a T5. I’m still deciding which one I want to dual mod. I’m not sure if it’s good to use the hrap3 since the pcb is so small and hidden. Or maybe that’s even better?
Heres my latest install. Thanks to Aggrastat for the JLW i recieved in a trade we made. This mod isnt too hard, especially compared to installing an ls32. But there is WAY less room for error.
T5 stick
Sanwa JLW
Random sanwa buttons
hole plugs
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/JLW%20in%20T5/1.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/JLW%20in%20T5/2.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/JLW%20in%20T5/5.jpg
I did a real quick wiring job, since i couldnt wait to see how the JLW handles. Its alot stiffer, perfect for MVC2 IMO.
Dont think the JLW is very popular, but if anyone ever needs help installing one, i can help. Aggrastat was who taught me this mod. Props go to him for making this install a pretty quick one.
Shin- i would suggest your try your first dual mod on the t5 stick, only hassle is youll have to put a hole in your case for a guide button.
Here is my setup:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u271/SOUSARANDES/chibis%20t5/DSCN1586.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u271/SOUSARANDES/chibis%20t5/DSCN1584.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u271/SOUSARANDES/chibis%20t5/DSCN1588.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u271/SOUSARANDES/chibis%20t5/DSCN1583.jpg
finally finished “mistcore”'s stick…
-T5 case
-Seimitsu-LS-32
-Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons
-Seimitsu ps-14-DN buttons
-Dual Mod PSX/360
-Plexi/artwork by arthong
-Top panel screw mod
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02132.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02133.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02135.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02136.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02137.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Mistcore%20stick/DSC02138.jpg
Also, heres something i made real quick when i was bored after partying all night. Should help people that cant follow traces and is helpful in general to new people. Sorry for my sloppy paint shop skills. lol
Im really debating using a seimitsu ls-32 with a battop over my jlf balltop cause Im oldschool like that(feels a tad too lose for my liking), anyone know how diffrent the jlw feels compared to a seimitsu with a battop on? Almost done with my t5 mod, my first mod ever so ill post some pics when my plexi gets here.
The JLW is WAY more stiff than the jlf or ls32. The ls32’s shorter throw, smaller deadzone and slightly stiffer spring make moves come out with ease and less movement of your wrist as long as your inputting your moves accurately. The JLW is pretty stiff, and will feel good if you like alot of resistance. HC moves and 360 moves are so easy with the JLW, they feel natural.
Once you install an LS32 into a t5 case theres no turning back, you wont be able to install any other sticks besides a happ/iL stick since there will be no mounting bracket. Unless you buy a universal mounting bracket from hbreakz in the trade forum. But youll have to weld it to the plate. Or maybe jbweld would work to? not sure.
Also, the JLW isnt a “drop in” mod either, theres some drilling to the mounting plate required. Nothing major though.
For me… the LS32 FTW! I just love the whole feel of this stick. Beats the hell out of a jlf imo. Best thing to do is try out a JLW, JLF and LS32 and see which feels better to you. Maybe you can find someone local that has one setup in one of their cases already. Its always worth a shot.
[quote=“sousa1181, post:496, topic:39543”]
Here is my setup:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u271/SOUSARANDES/chibis%20t5/DSCN1588.jpg
hey guys im new here and making my first custom stick, someone plz tell me what this usb plug in the case is called and where can i get one?