i am in the middle of my T5 wireless modification just waiting for the last parts to arrive. As soon as i finish i will post some pics. This is my first T5 attempt and i am very happy with what i have made already.
Yeah,
They’re not bad sticks for modding.
The original T5 PCB is actually pretty tough to break. I destroyed two other older PCBs with heating/soldering issues but so far I’ve been lucky with the T5 PCB.
The HARP-style base definitely leaves a good amount of room for mods but it’s not infinite and you definitely have to be especially careful with the area UNDER the JLF base. That area has the least amount of clearance in the interior of the stick. One other thing I’ve done to aid the mods is cut off the area in the upper left corner underneath the faceplate. (A small hacksaw that you can buy for under $6 is probably the best tool to use for this. I used a metal file to smooth down the cut area on the inside so that it was cleaner and would cut into the insulation of the connector cable.) This most likely contains the switches for the turbo function and home button in the HARP sticks. Since it’s not needed, I get rid of it to allow for removal of the stick’s connector cord for painting. It also lets you create extra space for another cord if you’re going to do a dual mod. I’ve already drilled extra power cord holes in two T5 bases for that eventuality.
I made the mistake in a later mod of putting my terminal strip too close to the JLF and the JLF was actually batting the terminal off and on! When I opened up the stick and realized what was going on, I quickly moved the terminal to the right and out of the way!
I thought the wire harness would be the thing most likely to get tangled up in the JLF base but I’ve been taping down the leftover harness wiring for all the mods to prevent that from happening…
One suggestion I have for the terminal is NOT to directly glue it to the interior of the base. Either put it on pegs glued to the RIGHT of the JLF base (out of the way so that JLF doesn’t hit the base) OR put a piece of electrical tape on the area where the terminal is going to sit and attach the terminal by velcro strip on top of the tape. I prefer the second option myself. That way if you have to remove the PCB for any reason you don’t have to unscrew all the joystick wiring leads from the PCB and can remove the terminal at the same time as the PCB.
At any rate, thinking ahead of time when you do mods (or correcting your mistakes quickly after you commit them!) is a way of allowing easier maintenance on the stick when you decide to replace broken components or install new PCBs. Seriously, you really don’t want to permanently glue things into the base if you can help it. It’s better to put things on pegs that can be ripped off easily or use velcro…
My last mod:
Vinyl dyed red case. Mamemarquee printed art. (Thanks Scott!)
Sixaxis wireless with SHinJN axisdapter
Sanwa JLF and OBSF30/24, panel mounted USB, front mounted start/select/home
Aggrastat: NICE stick! 
I just recently started mod’ing and hope to get into building very soon. I’ll be looking your way if I need any help/advice/parts for wireless modding
My 3rd mod. My own Viper stick:
Dual-mod with the existing Hori PCB + 2009 version MadCatz 360 pad. 2 extra buttonholes at the moment that will be filled as soon as my next order from Lizard Lick comes in. JLF + all Sanwa buttons.
Flames done in photoshop. Background is a viper snakeskin image I turned into a pattern and colored gray. I decided on this artwork cuz I love the character… I’m not even into SF4 that much just yet haha. I suck horribly, but she’s awesome.
Finished! Thank for this guide it really helped! http://img34.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=excellentscenestick1.jpg
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1098/excellentscenestick1.jpg
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2720/excellentscenestick2.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5163/excellentscenestick3.jpg
Nice! What kind of USB jack/plate is that and where can I get one?
Thanks, I never use C.Viper either but she just makes for good stick art. Nice dual mod work, unfortunately I dont have the man factor to do dual mods yet…so I envy all those who can. I personally prefer axisdapters and wireless, so that’s what I’ve been doing lately.
Plate is custom and expensive…I probably wouldnt do that again. I made a custom panel from frontpanelexpress.com. There’s many easier routes, using various adapters and male to female couplers etc. Try the Axisdapter thread many good post there for the USB port solution to wireless sticks.
Here’s my another t5 mod, love modding these things…they are just asking to be turned out. I did manage to run a usb to the existing hole. Worked out very nicely. My friend bought this stick minutes after I made it. So I dont have detailed pics of the USB port. I’m almost done with another one, I’ll take pics then.
JLF
All Sanwa buttons OBSN30 and OBSN 24 start/select home.
Vinyl Dyed white case.
Arthong Plexi with M4 black cap screws.
ShinJN/Sixaxis wireless. KOF 12 art printed by mamemarquees
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/9928/p6190230.jpg
Agreed 100%.
Sexy sexy sexy.
What do you use to drill hole through the case? I plan on doing that eventually. Also, what kind of screws do you use for the front? Seems like you can take the plate off from the front which I would like to do as well.
My T5 Mod…
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/4387/mbison0.jpg
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6271/mbison1.jpg
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/4192/mbison2.jpg
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/184/mbison3.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/2811/mbison4.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5594/mbison5.jpg
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1610/mbison6.jpg
Black Sanwa JLF with (6) Seimitsu PS-14-KN Translucent Purple and (2) PS-14-GN Black/Clear buttons on the top control panel.
Drilled holes for (3) 24mm Seimitsu PS-14-DN Black/Clear buttons on the rear for HOME/SELECT/START.
Inside has a Sony SIXAXIS wireless PCB with ShinJN’s Red AXISdapter.
Used a 3Ft MiniUSB extension (from digikey.com) with the outside end wrapped in a modified RG58 cable boot.
AND Arthong’s amazing T5 Plexi with an M.Bison template.
ok, so my mod work, i put in some sanwa buttons, and left the stock hori stick in there with an OCTO gate on it, but now every now and then the directional buttons won’t register and i can’t move my player, should i just go a head and put in a JLF, or is there something i can look for that might be shorting it out?
how many of you guys have put a ls32 in your t5 case? If i remember correctly i just have to drill the points where the mounting plate meets the top plate. then drill afew holes on the top plate to mount the LS32. I need to have the regular ls32 mounting plate, correct? I would search this thread but internet is acting reall laggy right now. Thanks
Yeah,
I think what you typed is right AJ.
I seem to remember someone else saying you need to drill out the “weld holes” of the mount fixed to the T5 faceplate and THEN pull for all you’re worth to take off the mounting.
That same person did not recommend installing the LS-32 in any standard Hori RAP case because of the fact that you have to drill your own holes through the faceplate to install the mount. That same person was aware of the fact most of us don’t have the power equipment to do that. A dremel or regular hand drill is not going to do the best job putting holes in a faceplate for you – you need a drill press and something to hold onto the faceplate while you’re drilling. Basically, what you need is a good solid, HEAVY table with a decent power drilll and some kind of clamp(s) to hold the faceplate.
It might be best taking the faceplate to someone who has the equipment to do this and who also knows how to weld or at least drill accurate-sized and spaced holes for the Seimitsu mount. The other option is looking for someone in the Trading Outlet or asking a question online to see who offers a customized faceplate that would fit or could modify the existing T5 faceplate.
That’s the problem with the LS-32… Hori never made its standard cases for that stick.
Frankly, I think the LS-32 and JLF feel about the same. I just prefer the convenience of the JLF and the greater parts support for it… After having recently gotten a purpose-built LS-32 stick (the HRAP 3 SE model) I’m satisfied that the JLF will be my standard stick from here on out. There’s nothing wrong with the LS-32 IMHO per se but I have a slight preference for the Sanwa hardware. I might get Seimitsu buttons if I ever decide to do a fancier photo faceplate than anything I’ve done so far but for now I’m happy with all the Sanwa hardware.
thanks for the heads up on the drill press, i know plenty of people with one. Im doing this mod for someone else. Just wanted to make sure i was on the same page. Ill probably hit up the OP of this thread. Think hes one of the peeps that did it.
Hey just a BIG thanks to this thread, I modded a buddy’s T5 which took around 5 hours (most of that time was sizing and stripping wires, and getting that artwork adhesive off, bleh).
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/nagoo81/sticks/th_IMG_1271.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/nagoo81/sticks/th_IMG_1273.jpg
Now it’s plexi time!
Quick addition to the mod – and this works for ALL HRAP-style cases –
Do yourself a favor and install cap sockets. Ditch those carriage bolts if you know what’s good for you! It’s a pain to remove 26 metal pieces all the time to reinstall buttons or have to redo rewiring or remove broken hardware. Better to remove 6 cap sockets from the faceplate to get to the hardware you want to work on versus 26!
(Before anybody asks, yes 14mm long cap sockets are long enough to secure acrylic plexiglass on top of the artwork. I assure you they WILL hold the plexi you might order from Arthong or one of the other guys making that stuff on SRK…)
You have to take off the metal base foundation of the HRAP-style case first AFTER you get a set of cap socket screws that fit the holes in for the faceplate.
If you can get metric cap sockets that fit the nuts that came with the carriage bolts, you’re good to reuse those. IF you end up using English cap socket screws – which is what most hardware places like Lowe’s or Home Depot would have in stock --, then you have to get English nuts that fit those. English cap sockets and metric nuts will not fit one another!
There are two ways to secure the nuts the cap sockets thread through to hold on the faceplate
- use Gorilla glue sparingly on the nuts (this glue fizzes a bit but is darn permanent) and then place them on the inside where of the stick base they’d normally be for the carriage bolts… you don’t have to save the washers for this. In fact, it’s advisable NOT to reuse the washers. Let the Gorilla glued nuts dry for a day before you screw in the cap sockets.
Alternate Method (the way I did this)
2) put the cap sockets in and then secure them to the stick base by screwing on the nuts tights. Take a glue gun, let it get very hot, and add blobs of glue all around the nuts and on top of them. If your glue is hot enough it’ll stream in little rivers that will join together as a blob all around the nut. Don’t worry too much about glue gun getting on the exposed threads of the cap socket screws. After a day of drying and glue hardening, remove the cap sockets to test the security of the nuts. If you did a good job of gluing, they shouldn’t move and any excess glue on the cap socket will be removed as you thread it out. Again, reusing the washers for the gluing of the nuts to the base interior is not necessary.
I believe this is what MadCatz did with the TE sticks at any rate. They glued the nuts into the interior of the stick base to act as anchors for the cap sockets. Unfortunately, a weaker red glue was used for the nuts and they do tend to fall off after a while.
I think that Hori secures the nuts for the SA/SE sticks using a plastic “nut holder” within the HRAP casing for those sticks. At least that’s what I saw in the Arcana Heart 2 stick which is the only Hori-manufactured stick aside from the SA/SE line of the HRAPs that also comes with cap sockets for the faceplate.
So today i had some extra time, so i decided to start prepping the top plate for an LS32. All i did today was remove the mounting bracket thats welded to the plate. It took me 5mins total to remove it. it wasnt as hard as i thought it was gonna be. First i used a drill bit and drilled into the 4 weld spots. once i was pretty close to touching the top plate i put a slightly smaller bit in and drilled different spots of my already drilled hole. Then I used a hammer and flathead to pry it of. Some pliers came in handy too. Im not sure if anyone is interested in my documenting the LS mounting/install. If theres enough interest ill write a small tutorial when im done.
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/98.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/1.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/5.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/9.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/95.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/T5%20Plate%20Mod/96.jpg
Also, for people wondering if happ/iL buttons fit in this case, they will. I took acouple pics with a iL button i had laying around. But if you use american buttons you more than likely will have to use a different pcb since there wont be room for the existing ovesized pcb. lol
Do you have any pics to show as an example? So basically you’re saying to glue some nuts on the case and use some cap sockets/bolts/screws to secure down the top plate.
Also, has anyone noticed that their JLF spring feels tighter when installed in this mod? I’m not quite sure why this is, but it feels much stiffer…
Had to redo this post because of image size issues!
Note to self – always shrink digital camera images to 1/4 size in PS before posting here! 
I’ve taken it upon myself to replace ALL the carriage posts in my Hori HRAP-style cases. (6 cap socket mods to date.) Carriage bolts, IMHO, are the worst piece of hardware Hori uses in its sticks and make both maintenance and mods 10 times harder than they have to be. Which would YOU rather deal with? 6 screws to tighten/loosen, or 26 screws, bolts, nuts, and washers?
The cap sockets of course go in the location of the carriage bolts (faceplate corners and faceplate middles top and bottom) in the T5/HRAP faceplate base as pictured here –
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/d9e72a8e0e.jpg
I try to reuse as much of the T5 hardware as possible to save money and headaches. Although I have no use for carriage bolts (but I’ll still selling my leftovers once I qualify for the Trading Outlet!), the hex nuts are VERY useful. (I DO NOT reuse the washers associated with the hex nuts as they are not needed.) The hex nuts become “thread mounts” for the cap sockets that I bought off eBay. I use a lot of heat gun glue to secure the hex nuts to the inside of the T5 faceplate base. I, of course, do tighten them as much as possible to the thread of the cap socket before I pour on the heat gun glue.
After 24 hours of drying/hardening, the glue looks like this around the hex nut–
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/48c114d43f.jpg
Here’s a pic of the standard Hori cap socket screw used in the HRAP SA line and the Arcana Heart 2 joystick.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/bec3777297.jpg
The cap sockets I bought online have heads smaller than this but the the threads are the same M4 threading. Cap sockets are much easier to deal with than carriage bolts and frankly I like tearing through the top of the stick faceplate better than going through the base bottom!
Here’s a pic comparing the standard Hori carriage bolt to the cap socket screw (pictured on the right) I bought online. No question which I like better – cap socket all the way!
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/8e05168eaf.jpg