I’m having a problem with 2 buttons.
Jab(Square?) and L1 right next to it don’t work.
I’ve tried soldering some new wires to the PCB, but that didn’t work.
When I first tried this mod, I had a crappy soldering gun, so I kinda burnt the PCB on those 2 contact points.
Anything I can do to fix it? And what kind of tools do I need?
(Hopefully something that won’t require a trip to the store…)
Also, I’m still trying to figure out how to connect the wire harness to the PCB…
What order do I solder the wires? I have a Seimitsu harness if that helps.
Here’s a diagram of what I’m trying to do.
Sorry for all the newbish questions, but this is my first time modding.
I’m just tired of soldering and resoldering wires when I don’t know the order they’re supposed to go.
Question about this stick. Can I use the case with a xbox 360 wired PCB? Also, do I need to do anything if I plan on using a Sanwa JLF along with OBSF-30 for the buttons?
I don’t know how yall are getting away with not scraping the pcb of the stick. You all look like you’re using the wire harness, when I did this mod I had to solder directly to the microswitches and scrap the common ground pcb. buh?
edit: to arog: There’s plenty of room inside the case, I’m planning on doing a dual pcb with the case my self
not sure if this was answered in this thread but what usb converter’s are the t5 pcb’s compat with. I have the 1st gen t5 stick if that matter’s. I won’t to mod but not sure if I need to get a new pcb.
dem- Ive used the inpin and pelican converters and they work flawlessly. Thats for the ps3. Or are you talking about usb for the computer? Not sure bout that.
Barky- LOL screw it, it works now and that all that matters.
This puts me in an inconvenient but not unsolvable situation. When I dual pcb mod (360 and ps, getting rid of the hori pcb and just using the case) the stick I’ll have to daisy chain to the microswitches themselves . Basically I’ll have to solder two wires each to each directional ground and go all the way around the stick. Again, not impossible but inconvenient. The microswitches on the harnessed jlf are very small and inconvenient to solder to but it should work
Couldn’t u wire to a quick disconnect for the jlf’s pcb instead of the mircoswitch’s I know that it would be a pain but it would be better in the long run for upgrades and switch outs.
Oh and AJtheMishima where can i get an inpin converter cause the pelican’s are hard to find. Thanx.
A guy named laugh sells the inpin direct from korea for like $20 plus $6 dollar shipping. He also sells dark hai JLFs and OBSF30s incase anyone needs those since LL and Real Neo Geo stopped taking orders. Acouple of weeks ago Laugh was sold out, check his thread in the For Sale section to see if hes gotten any back in.
Inpin works just as good as the pelican, the only problem i heard is that it has trouble reading some of the older non dual shock psx pcbs.
I finally got the joystick to work, but I still can’t get those 2 buttons to work…:annoy:
I tried shaving some of the contact point, but it’s still black underneath.
You know how there’s 2 contact points for each button?
Well, for the ones I can’t get working, only one of the contact points is messed up.
It’s like this:
Assuming you’re looking at the PCB bottom side up, this is how the 2 contact points on the broken buttons are.
|X|O|
The X one is the broken contact point. I’m not to keen on daisy chaining, but is that the ground? So would I be able to make those buttons work by daisy chaining it?
I think I’ll try shaving the contact point more, but I’m afraid I’ll go too far and mess up the PCB even more.
im not too sure about it. But i wouldnt mind finding out so i can know. Make a new thread with your problem, im sure youll get a few hits in the next hour
. Basically I’ll have to solder two wires each to each directional ground and go all the way around the stick. Again, not impossible but inconvenient. The microswitches on the harnessed jlf are very small and inconvenient to solder to but it should work