my aunt solders stuff for her job so she hooked me up with some nice tools but here’s the google checkout link. Solder wick should do just fine and you should be able to get it at radio shack or any electronics store.
edit: pic of the storage container with my soldering tools. :lovin:
There are 2 ways I used to remove solder.
Method #1…
Take a 30watt solder iron and use desolder braid. Just be careful with this since the iron might heat up the pcb too much and render it useless. I use this method on these T5 pcb since I swap the pcb anyways so I don’t care if I damage the pcb.
Method #2…
Take a 15watt solder iron and put down some new solder on the joints. Just cover them up and then use a desolder braid to remove. I am no expert on why this works but it does. I use this method to remove the triggers on xbox360 pcb since I DO want to use those and DON’T want to damage the pcb.
Hope this helps.
what do you guys use to clean the art off the metal plate?
^ scrape/peel it off and use “goo gone” to get rid of sticky stuff, or just paste your new art over the old one
lol a lot of the last few pages are (mostly) the same questions being asked over and over
nuthin wrong with that but
someone should compile all the stuff into 1 post
:u: why don’t you do it since you know what questions seem to come up a lot. huh mr. big shot?!
maybe i will if i have nothing to do
but like i said theres a reason im not a writer
p.s i used two things of crazy glue to stick my artwork on the “thing” it worked fine.
The reason that works is because of lead and especially fresh flux from your solder. If you got some flux and applied it to the solder before putting the wick on and applying the iron, you’d have the same or better results.
If you’re getting serious enough to use solder wick, its time to pick up a thing of flux. Trying to use a solder wick without it is frustrating as hell because most solder you come across is low lead and old, so its difficult to melt and doesn’t flow well. The flux fixes that and makes it flow the way it should. It also makes tinning wires SOOO damn much easier to do right.
Radio Shack carries flux pens and a tube of flux. The pens work, but I have great luck with the earwax looking tube, even if it is messier to apply.
could someone tell me the size of the screws that came with the stock hori stick. 3 of the threads got messes up on one and it wont secure itself into the mounting tab
hey will 24 gauge work for wire ?? its the only thing they had at home depot…they didnt have 22
I prefer 24 for most everything. 22 is thicker and is just a little move difficult to use for me.
For dealing with sticks, GUAGE DOES NOT MATTER! Electrically, any guage you can buy will work. But you’ll find that stranded is far easier to use than solid, and smaller is usually easier to work with (really small guage like 30 can be a little annoying to strip insulation from). 24 guage stranded is perfect for me.
okay im SO PISSED…i dont know WHAT is going on…everything worked fine…except when i had to connect the joystick…
i color cordinated the wires like it said in page 7 of this thread…i did this a few times…and all i could get out is the joystick to do a down movement…
i tried a diffrenct pcb and the same thing…
i then tired a diffrent pcb for the joystick i had lying around…but this time the jump would only work an none of the other buttons…
then oddly enough with the tekken stick…if i dissconected ALL of the joystick wires…my stick kept going down on its own without ANYTHING hooked up…no wired not even attacthed to the pcb…has anyone had this probelm as well?
Kind of unclear what’s going on in the last part of your post. Post pics of the wiring and I’ll try to see what’s up. Probably soldering problems
Edit: DominoLogic beat me to it while I was editing my post =P
if a lot of stuff doesnt work all at once im guessing its a problem with your ground wires
im using the brand new harness that came out of the sanwa stick… desoldered the wires that were coming off the tekkens pcb…:shake:
uh…i meant the ground wires are connected incorrectly, not that the wires themselves are broken or anything
dunno what “desoldered the wires that were coming off the tekkens pcb” means but
there are 4 “direction” wires and 4 ground wires (8 total) coming out of the pcb. they are ordered something like
(EDIT: WOOPS GOOD CATCH TingBoy 
)
gnd
right
gnd
down
gnd
left
gnd
up
your sanwa harness has wires coming out of it like this
direction
direction
direction
direction
gnd
check the earlier post for more details about the directions.
anyways since the T5 PCB is common ground, that means all the grounds are the same, so what you want to do is connect direction to direction, and then connect the gnd wire on the harness to ONE of the gnd wires coming out of the pcb. the other 3 gnd wires dont need to be connected to anything, just put some electrical tape over the ends and stick them somewhere.
if that is what you did then i dont know what to say because it should be correct.
check to see if your direction wires on the sanwa harness arent connected to a gnd wire coming out of the pcb by mistake
take a photo or draw a picture of what you did
^ pinout is wrong
GND
Right
GND
Down
GND
Left
GND
Up
You posted the right pinout like a few pages back
okay…the tekken pcb has glue on the wires for the directional buttons on it… i first attached the black ground wire of the sanwa harness to the the first grey(ground)… by only twisting them on the end… then i did the same with the other…preety much skiping the ground wires and atttaching only the directional buttons.
only ONE direction button worked when you pressed on it…but it was the wrong direction… i left the black ground wire attached and kept moving the others around but nothing…
i then took off the glue and desoldered the ends that was origanly on the tekken stick, and soldered the parts normally… NOTHING :sad:
i thought that i got a broken stick …i then took out the sanwa stick…and that pcb above the restrictor plate, i changed it out with another one i had laying around…same thing…
so i dont know what to do know…i went as far as trying a street fighter aniversary edition pcb…but nothing…
i dont know whats going on…i spent like 4 hours on it yesterday, and i felt like i was in the twilight zone…cause i thought i was doing everything right… it cant be my tekken pcb…because i tried another one and same thing… it cant be the sanwa’s pcb cause i switched out and the same thing…
SOME ONE HELP
Very odd problem there. I don’t know if it’ll do any good, but try other grounds. Do you have a JLF or Seimitsu harness? The reason I ask this is because the harnesses I got from Per that came with my LS-32’s had the black wire in the middle. Orange was my ground wire.
Anyways, if all else fails, post pics of the PCB and harness wired up if you still have it like that.
AHHHHH
i too have black in the middle…so this means orange is my ground correct…:arazz:
thnks alot…im gona get to work…