Hurm… I never had a problem with that red gue. Just use a decent pair of blunt nose pliers and it pops off in one piece, or a scalpel if it’s deep in the screw head. Agetec glue on the other hand… that stuff is volatile.
Glue is still there, just in much more manageable quantities. To remove the plugs, I just had to run a screwdriver through the glue and it basically just came right off and the glue on the USB is different and will come off in one piece.
Here’s a few pics. Sorry, they’re all post mod. Will be wires in the way. PCB is definitely a different production run, with some differences, but it’s the same design.
Bottom
Top
Sides are nice and clear, too. This is just the two LEDs on the Chimp.
Looks like a TE-S 360 motherboard, with some added notches cut.
Could be. I’ve only modded a couple of those and they were ps3 sticks.
Just paid for mine…god shipping from Japan is expensive & I couldnt buy from Amazon cos they won’t ship to my country.
I hope its all worth it though, cant wait to receive it.
Do my eyes deceive me or is the plastic on the top about an inch thick?
http://www.4gamer.net/games/132/G013276/20120203087/
What people want to see. What’s INSIDE!
Mad Catz
Hori
That piece of tape holding the button wires together in the Hori stick looks horrible.
looking for the open case pics, I think this new HRAP is easy to mod as Hrap V3/VX-SA/VLX Series
Also, does the Xbox 360 version of this HRAP have common ground? (sorry if I didn’t read the entire thread)
It looks common ground, but I do not recognise the PCB.
Seems to be different from the boards found in the VX and VX:SA?
That made me sad 
Yup. Def different from the VX and FS VX boards.
But it looks like they’re using the same board for both 360 and PS3 versions, and just populating it with different parts. You can see the spots for the two USB jacks on that one.
Hi guys, anybody know if Fry’s or Gamestop is carrying the Madcatz SCV stick in store?
At least they have something to hold down their wires!
I’m sorry but sometimes you guys are so afraid of offending Markman that you don’t mention the Mad Catz stick issues. Other than the PCB failures which stuck the first three production series of TE cases for the XBox 360’s particularly hard…
You want to talk about wiring, that has been the single biggest issue with every Mad Catz TE that I’ve opened to mod. Once you do open them, the f@#$%@@ wiring has to be cinched down with zip ties so that you can properly close and secure the faceplate. If you don’t zip tie the wiring, the wiring bunches up under the pushbuttons and they don’t depress properly! Even after you do this, the faceplate tends to bend up a bit because of all the excess wiring.
Never had a wiring issue with the Hori HRAP’s except to replace the Scotch tape in them that holds down the wiring. I do that for safety reasons just so that it doesn’t wind around the stick shaft however unlikely that’ll happen.
Never had an issue with Agetec “glue” by the way. There have been other things, but not the glue. “Red glue” is an issue with the Mad Catz TE sticks for sure if you decide to take the cases apart for either painting the case or removing the 24mm buttons.
Every joystick case has its issues and design features that I don’t care for but the Mad Catz TE as beautiful as it looks seems to have a few more issues than most other cases.
^ lol GeorgeC
BTW. If you look at the insides of our SCV stick, we opened up the plastic area under the buttons more to give more free area for wiring/modding. 
I disagree. There has been plenty of constructive and unconstructive criticism made about the SE & TE sticks on this forum, you just need to look for it.
IMO this is not a wiring issue but a shell issue. This problem was fixed with the SC5 Fightstick if you look at the inside pics - that portion of the shell has now been removed completely.
Even so this is a minor problem, not a critical.
The red glue is not an issue if you know how to remove it - blunt nose pliers used to pull the glue off in one piece, or a scalpel blade to flick out the glue in one piece from a screw head. As far as I know there is no such solution for Agetec glue removal.
I’ve never had that problem happen George… I tuck the wires back in where they came from, and it’s good to go.
Red Glue isn’t an issue. That glue is there to cover madcatz and help as an indicator that you have or have not tampered with the sticks internals.
It’s incredibly easy to get off on the scv stick, but even before it was never that big of a problem, now you’re just nitpicking…
I cant speak to the quality of the sticks, but I do prefer the artwork on the Hori stick.
I also now question the quality of Madcatz components since I have had 3 of the fightpads die on me(2 of them the inside rubber parts of the dpad cracked over a few months use) and the other the wires have shorted out(main wire going into the pad) It would only work when I held it a certain way.
I have HORI pads that I have taken apart to check the quality/mod and they do seem to be built much better on the inside. (better rubber membranes and thicker wiring that is set better)
I feel HORI may use better quality components due to my multiple bad experiences with the FIGHTPADS.
I have heard nothing from MADCATZ that address these pad construction issues that many users have reported.
I now play on a HORI Fighting Commander 3 Pro
http://www.hori.jp/us/Products/PS3/ps3_fc3pro/index.htm
but would have happily been a long time MCZ customer(great designs and looks) if they didnt break from normal use. I am not hard on my controllers and want them to LAST.
Based on name brand and quality of other fight controllers:
I would have to recommend the Hori.
I’m real digging the Hori. Can’t wait for blklightning21 to make a metal panel for this. Six buttons with start and Select on the top left and the turbo panel removed…That would awesome.
[edit] Start and Select on the top right of the panel
Hello
I got the stick yesterday and I really like it. But everytime when my joystick is in direction 789 it disconnects.
I just want to ask if someone also have this problem. Otherwise I have to send it back…