Hopefully this is the right thread for this question.
I’ve got a HRAP EX 360 that suddenly and completely stopped working. It doesn’t register as being plugged in, no signal from the little power light button, zero.
Now I managed to talk Hori into sending me a new cable as I thought that was the likely culprit. Despite the stick being long out of warranty, they sent the cable and I’m grateful for it. Unfortunately, it didn’t solve my problem at all, and I’ve been barking up the wrong tree.
So, question is: since the power cable wasn’t the problem, what else could it be?
I’ve never heard of Hori PCB’s acting up on computers. Hori’s been good on keep its joystick controller PCB’s compatible across consoles and computers. Whether they have a USB cable or you use an adaptor on older models, most if not all of the Hori arcade sticks seem to work with Windows and Mac.
I regularly use an MC Cthulu-equipped joystick with PC. Same controller’s been used with Mac a dozen or more times. The PCB on it is reverse-engineered from the Hori controller PCB.
The exception may be the 360-versions of the controllers. If worst comes to worst, you may have to get a controller driver for the PC/Windows but USB compatibility should be automatic with all Macs running OS X.
The only way for sure is to try it yourself. I’m just about 100% positive an HRAP V3 SA will work with a Mac that has USB ports (any machine that runs OS 8.6 on up… most Mac users now have at least OS 10.3).
Does anyone know what size screws are used to mount a JLF on the HRAP2’s “universal” joystick mount? I’m thinking of going back to my HRAP’s original faceplate (+ an Art plexi) but I lost the screws that were originally used to mount the JLF.
has anyone here modded their HRAP VX-SA for 360?
I’m curious as to how easy it was to install new buttons and faceplate art.
I plan on doing a custom paint job too.
thanks!
^^^
new to srk forums (yes i know, i’m a bit of a noob)
I’m actually modding one as we speak. will take a few weeks though. So far here’s what i got:
-art being created by D3V
-Joytron Paewang PCB
-Clear/black buttons
-clear/black balltop
-1/32" plexi
-clear Dustwasher
Just trying to see what else i can do to the stick. I need ideas :(. its just a white stick lol. i should paint it once I see the art, but even then, i don’t know how to go about it (I think spray paint is illegal in Chicago or some shit…)
I’d like to breath some new life into my HRAP3 which has been collecting dust for the last year.
My friend has agreed to help me replace the stock Hori buttons (yuck) with Sanwa parts.
Before I order from Lizard Lick, I’d like to confirm that these are the appropriate button sizes to purchase.
Sanwa OBSF-24 24mm Pushbutton X2 for Select + Start Buttons
Sanwa OBSF-30, 30mm Pushbutton X8 for HRAP3 face inputs
Is Lizard Lick still the best source for these parts at reasonable rates, or do ya’ll recommend another supplier?
Thank you for the information. I’ll avoid Lizard Lick. Are the Sanwa OBSF-24 snap in Pushbuttons
and the Sanwa OBSF-30 snap in Pushbuttons the correct Sanwa buttons to use on the HRAP3?
Thank you for the information, jdm714. I’ve just ordered 8 Sanwa OBSF-30f and 2 Sanwa OBSF-24 from FocusAttack.co.
Hope to receive them in time for the weekend. Have a good one!
I don’t think a lot of people here own the Tekken 6 or want to strip the artwork. It’s a limited edition thing and you kind of destroy the value of it by taking off the artwork. I didn’t care so much for the T5’s – there were other bigger issues with it such as the quality of the Hori stock joystick lever and the even worse buttons(!) --, but I’ve tried to leave the artwork on the the other Hori sticks I own now.
People that want a T6 template are going to have to bite the bullet and do the following OR get someone else to create the T6 HRAP 3 template for them; IF you’re computer-literate and can learn to use an imaging program –
a) get access to a PC with a scanner;
b) either learn how to use the utility scanning program that came with the scanner, OR get a LEGAL copy of Photoshop OR freeware like GIMP and get used to the program;
c) you will have to remove the faceplate from the T6 HRAP 3;
d) remove ALL the hardware attached the the T6 faceplate including the joystick lever and all buttons; you cannot scan the top of the faceplate (artwork facing down on the scanner) with all that hardware still attached!
e) you have to scan the faceplate top TWICE unless you have a large enough scanner flatbed to scan the faceplate’s top all in one pass; scan at at least 300 dpi if not 600 dpi and in Grayscale mode minimum; I would actually go ahead and scan the faceplate at 600 dpi in Full Color (RGB or CMYK);
f) Assuming you have some mastery of Photoshop, GIMP, or another editor with a Layers functionality, you will have to composite the two scan images into one… Much easier than usual if you kept the orientation of the scans fairly close. You may not even have to rotate the images to line them up! This is where using the button holes for lining up works to your advantage!
g) AFTER you get the scans lined up and composited into one image, you can double check your work against Art Hong’s template for the HRAP 3 (non-T6) edition. You can at least check the 30mm button holes with the existing HRAP 3 template to see that they’re in alignment with one another and on on the same plane. (Note that your 24mm buttons will NOT line up with the existing HRAP 3 template… Likewise, the 30mm buttons on the T6 may be higher or lower than the existing HRAP template by a millimeter or two. Not the point… You’re just trying to see that the 30mm’s on the T6 scan are in relatively “flat” alignment that parallels the existing template’s 30mm button holes.) IF they are, you’re probably okay and have a workable template for creating new art.
h) Assuming you get a working knowledge of your image editor (whether it’s Photoshop, another image editor, or GIMP), you can create a new template on a layer above your finalized scan image. You don’t want to create the template on the existing image – do it on at least a new layer above it! You’re going to use marquee’s like the magnetic lasso and ellipse tool to create shapes for the new template.
i) NOT gonna go further into this… you have to have a basic understanding of image editing programs to attempt a Template. It took me months in Photoshop class to learn this stuff and even longer (years) to come to grips with a lot of Photoshop’s functions (which I’m sure GIMP has, too). I can write a tutorial that goes on for 20+ pages but on less people the hardware and software to experiment, no point in going further on this…
The main stumbling block here is the fact that the T6 is a relatively rare HRAP 3 variant that a lot of people just don’t have. Regardless, you can use the existing HRAP 3 template to check up on the scan quality and composite of the T6 scans and use that as a starting blank for a new template. Heck, you can probably create a new BLANK T6 Template by just moving the 30mm and 24mm button holes on the existing T3 TEMPLATE to line up with the corresponding holes on the T6 scan once that’s composite image is verified to be as close to perfect as possible. (You have to COPY then PASTE the 30mm buttons as holes onto a new layer so that they can be moved. Copy and paste the 30mm holes in rows of 4 across to save your sanity! After you paste onto a new layer, just take that row and move it over so that it lies on top of the button holes in the T6 composite image scan.) Moving the holes alone will save hours of work and you won’t have to recreate the Template’s boundaries and capsocket/button head holes, either…
I’ve been looking around for a while now, but does anyone have a HRAP EX pcb diagram? I’m in desperate need of a one, i haven’t been able to get the directions to map out correctly on my stick.
