Hori Real Arcade Pro FAQ for all versions

Hi guys.

I’d like to put ls-56 on my US Tekken 5 stick… But I read that I need to make holes on existing mounting bracket to do so.

Is that something possible with regular drill and regular bit or do I need something special?

I’d rather buy the control panel (not plexi though…) or replacement mounting bracket from someone if it is available instead of doing it myself but it seems all the people who used to do that has gone underwater. :confused:

or if there’s anyone near Los Angeles, CA who can make those holes for me for price, it’d be good too ~_~

He means the Joystick.
So the .187" can be found in store, yes.

Thnx bro :slight_smile:

Any idea why My stick is kinda tighter than the other Jlf’s I have used?

Is it possibly cos I got it from Playasia on a clearance sale (old unit ) ?

Any tips on how to loosen it ? Should I apply a lube or like change the spring ?

I recently noticed I can’t really feel the down corners in my LS-32-01 inside the HRAP SE anymore since I prolly mashed too many easy motion srk…

Can I just replace the blue/turquoise restrictor plate or the actual stick is done for?

from what i seem, it looks like you’ll need to replace the actuator and maybe the restricter plate too.

the problem is that theres a stupid c clip in place that makes taking the actuator out a pain in the ass. you should get a replacement e clip afterwards.

Yes, what Ouruborus said.

And you should play without the Dark Blue piece.

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2030/ls32yy6.png

Make friends with somebody at a shop…

To install a Seimitsu in a Tekken 5 faceplate takes a drill press, clamps, and drill bits made for metal.

To really mount an LS-56 or LS-32-style stick into the T5, I think you have to remove the existing mounting bracket and COUNTERSINK new support screws regardless of what Seimitsu stick you put in. It’s a pain to modify those sticks to fit into a JLF-only stick mount. Modify the T5 faceplate, not the joysticks! The T5 really doesn’t have mounts for JLF or Seimitsus anyway. It was dumb luck that JLF’s mount nicely onto that faceplate!

You have to be careful about drill bits. What works for plastic and wood won’t cut through metal without ruining both the metal and the bits in the process.

I feel comfortable drilling through plastic with a 20mm Fortsner bit and a drill bit set I got for Christmas.

At the same time, I wouldn’t mess with drilling through metal without the right tools. It’s both cheaper and safer to have someone else do this for you if you can find a good metal work shop. It’s just very expensive and potentially hazardous to do this on your own. At least 10-20x more dangerous than anything I’ve done with my drill or soldering iron. Deadly serious here. No joking.

what exactly is the actuator?
I guess restricter plate is the mint colored piece in jdm’s post?

You might be right.

The green thing in my image.

i know the HRAP3s can’t mount an LS-32, do the HRAP EX (non SE) suffer the same issue?

I’m just going to Quote my Post.

Thanks. I guess it’s better to get rid of t5 and use that fund into modding something else…

Thanks for the fast response jdm, you never sleep, do you? lol

I have Hype Dog to keep me up.
Laugh.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c100/Gaara48180/489b26e31464843c115b819.gif

this.

My favorite Stage because of it!
And the puppies in the back.

Wouldn’t it be simpler to call the mounting bracket in the HRAPV and VLX as the “New Universal Mounting Bracket” and the one from the older HRAPs as the “Old Universal Mounting Bracket?”

Not necessarily.

A number of people have successfully modded T5’s to accept Seimitsu joysticks.

Probably less expensive to measure out where you want to drill holes for a new joystick. You just lie the mounting bracket for the new stick over the T5 and mark the drill points using the Seimitsu mount as a template. You have to really be precise in your measurement and make sure it’s centered over the joystick shaft hole. It might not be a bad idea to enlarge that hole a bit, too. It tends to scratch joystick shaft covers a bit. It’s sized for bare alloy (Hori/JLF) shafts, not covered shafts.

One thing you definitely have to do before drilling in new is get rid of the Hori mount welded to the bottom of the faceplate. A couple of guys have said the way to do this is to actually drill through the large holes of the Hori mount/existing welds and pull the part off for all you’re worth.

(Nobody in LA has a metal shop that could do that mod for you? They probably wouldn’t charge much unless they’re a crook. Something like this shouldn’t be more than $25-$30 tops unless they really don’t think it’s worth their time and want to charge more than that.)

The guy to ask about this mod is AJ Mishima. He’s done it a few times and probably has more experience modding T5’s than anybody else. Also, look up the FAQ for the T5 Mod. There’s some talk there about modding the T5 faceplate to accept Seimitsus.

The Tekken 5 Joystick (in stock condition) by itself is probably not worth that much. $50, tops, unaltered… Sometimes as low as $15-$20 at pawn shops and flea markets. Even a modded case (quick disconnect lines, faceplate modded for Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons) might not be worth more than $30 bare. What makes the joystick much more valuable is if the box the joystick came in is intact and has the Collector’s DVD foldout case and the original Tekken 5 game it shipped with.

A good part of why those packages are becoming more valuable now is because Tekken 5 (the game) is out-of-print and the release of Tekken 6 this past year sparked renewed interest in Tekken 5… BUT, again, that game’s out-of-print now!

EDIT: doesn’t work too well, sorry for any inconvenience.

i’m going to try to make a new mounting plate using plexiglass.