Wow you are fast, thanks for your help.
one more thing if its okay, about the wiring harness, do i have to do something or just disconnect the sanwa and put it right into the seimitsu?
Don’t have to do anything.
Just disconnect the Sanwa and put in Seimitsu Joystick.
Anybody know if all hori tops are basically interchangable? Basically I want to change my 2p side button layout panel to the sanwa layout. So if I got like a HRAP 3 metal top would it fit on my original HRAP?
What are you talking about – pushbutton layout, or something else? Viewlix layout is what the HRAP V3 SA and Mad Catz TE sticks use as well as the original HRAP 1 sticks and most licensed HRAP joysticks (Arcana Heart, Tekken 5). Astrocade Layout is HRAP 2 SA/HRAP 3 button layout.
As for HRAP 3 Vs HRAP 2 Vs HRAP 1, yes the metal faceplate SHOULD be interchangeable amongst the joystick bases. You’ll have to unplug and remove all the buttons and joysticks, but yeah, you can swap the metal faceplate.
Beware of trying to do that with the licensed HRAP stick faceplates (Arcana Heart, Tekken 5, etc.). Many of them don’t have the cutout area for the Turbo/Home Button features because they were PS2 sticks and didn’t have Home Buttons OR Turbo functions.
ya the pushbutton layout. thanks for the info.
are you sure though that the HRAP1/T5 etc stick is the same viewlix layout as the TE? if that is the case they i dont really need to change it but from what I remember the button layout is weird and they progressively move up from LP -> HP where as the TE stick moves up from LP->MP then from MP -> LB they are level.
GeorgeC, I keep reading you type HRAP as having Vewlix.
I do not understand that because I really don’t see what you mean.
Does anyone know whether custom “faceplates” for the HRAP series can be ordered? Soon, I will have what I believe is an HRAP1 w/the Mirror Top. I like the mirror top, but it sounds like it will be a major pain to keep clean. As long as the HRAP series has been around I’ve gotta guess that people have gone ahead and done all kinds of custom work w/them.
What is a faceplate?
vocalninja used to make Custom Control Panels for HRAP if that is what you mean.
Here’s the thing…
Hori’s changed the metal faceplates on its HRAP lines joysticks a few times. With the revisions, they changed button layouts for the 30mm pushbuttons. On a few licensed joysticks, they deleted the turbo buttons, too.
With the HRAP 1 (no numeral on the actual joystick, but that’s what it is) line, Hori had a straighter button alignment. The furthest left 30mm buttons angled downward from the last the three in each row. This general arrangement is LIKE the Viewlix arrangement on the Mad Catz TE sticks and the newer Hori joysticks (HRAP V3 SA and VLX lines) but is technically not a Viewlix joystick because of the casing/base design. The generic HRAP case is actually more like an Astrocade cabinet!
Where it gets a bit confusing to some people is that there is an actual Astrocade cabinet AND Astrocade pushbutton layout patterned after arcade cabinets. What we refer to as HRAP 2/HRAP 2 SA/HRAP 3/HRAP 3 SA/HRAP 3 SE is generically “All-Astrocade.” Both the base and button layouts are Astrocade-derived.
IN the meantime, Hori continued to produced licensed derivative joysticks using HRAP base molds sometimes in white molded plastic, other times the same generic black plastic they used for their Pro (HRAP) line. These licensed joysticks (Arcade Heart, US Tekken 5 anniversary, etc.) generally used the older “Viewlix-like” button layout.
Hori’s finally produced Viewlix style cabinets (VLX and V3 SA) with Viewlix button layouts in the wake of Mad Catz tremendous success with their Viewlix-styled Round 1 and Round 2 TE joysticks. This is just a new style of HRAP just like Mad Catz introduced “wingless” Round 3 TE sticks. Some people will like the newer style better, some won’t. Mad Catz is still producing the Round 2 joystick with the older style cabinet while everybody is wondering if Hori has discontinued the older HRAP cabinets used with the HRAP 1, 2, and 3 iines along with the majority of its licensed character art joysticks…
At any rate, like cars joysticks will continue to evolve. Some people will like the newer designs, some won’t…
That’s what I meant. Thanks for the link!
What do people use to drill holes through the HRAP cases? Do they just use a regular drill with those hole bits? I want to move my select/start button to the back as well.
So I got the HRAP1… this is definitely a 1A (mirror top), though I noted some things about it:
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getting Sanwa screw-ins in there was a pain. Luckily I had 2 snap-ins in the same color to get those two furthest out from the joystick. I’d recommend snap-ins for anyone switching the buttons out.
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when removing the QDs, I had to use the “flathead” method for all of the buttons.
Great stick though. Because it’s PS2-based I can use it on several consoles (w/converters)…
Was wondering if someone could tell whether the grey stock panel of say:
would stay on if you take off the clear plastic layer on top?
I own a HRAP2: SA and recently dropped something on the plastic panel that caused a dent and would like to keep the original grey panel,
but was wondering if I could replace the clear top plastic layer with a plexi
is there anyway to put in a seimitsu ls-55 inside the t5 stick?
As far as I can tell, all the clear plastic does for the HRAP is collect dust when the stick is in storage.
I had clear plastic on my HRAP 3 SE for the better part of a year. Took it off when it started coming off on its own and the stick looks the same. Removal of the thin plastic film doesn’t ruin the faceplate background.
I don’t think Hori intended for it to stay on… It’s more of a storage/shipping thing.
Unless somebody else can give you a good reason to keep it on, you might as well take it off.
I’ve had clear plastic on washing machines, dryers, and remotes. I don’t believe it does anything other than serve a storage/shipping purpose.
P.S. – I’ve got various Hori joysticks and the HRAP 3 SE is the only I bought that had the plastic film on it. Even my HRAP 3 SA didn’t have the plastic film on it.
Thanks for the reply GeorgeC,
However, I think its more of a HRAP 2 thing that they had the extra clear plastic layer on top, its not a plastic film
Hey,
Is it worth the time to change the Glued HRAP EX cables from the stick to QD’s ??
and
Can I find QD’s in a local Electrical chop or lets say, ACE Hardware?
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Entirely up to you, I would just for easy of swapping parts at a later date.
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I haven’t been able to find .110" disconnects in a brick and mortar store; I’ve had to order them online unfortunately.