double post
HRAP EX uses PCB from Hori.
You won’t find anywhere but from another HRAP EX.
So it is PCB like I thought it would be?
Laugh.
But all you did was replace the Quick Disconnects?
I wanted you to do a better test, and that by moving the Microswitches around.
Because if the problem stays consistent by affecting same direction, then it is PCB.
But if the problem seems to move, like to another direction, then the situation is of the Microswitch.
Difficulty of replacing PCB?
Well you have to get PCB from an Xbox 360 Controller first.
Then you will solder wires for each input; Directionals, Actions, Start, Back, Guide.
And depending on which PCB you get, and if you do 6-Button or 8-Button, either have to do Trigger work or not (Hex Inverter, Transistors, Resistors).
And from which PCB you get, Common Ground or non-Common Ground, you would Daisy-chain the Grounds or have individual Ground wires for each Signal.
Lizard Lick does not sell any PCB for Xbox 360.
You have to buy and do your own, or buy from someone already soldered.
Good PCB to use are the Mad Catz ones.
Mad Catz #4716.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=197388
Mad Catz Street Fighter IV FightPad.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=179270
There are more.
But those two are commonly used.
Geez. Yeah, I guess I could do that microswitch test first. Because it’s a brand new stick, I thought it unlikely to be the microswitches. The QDs I initially used were a bit flimsy, so I decided to start there. I’ll do the microswitch tests before I consider that nightmare of a process. Thank you.
Hi, just got a HRAP3 on the advice of some people on this forum, and it turned out to be a very good purchase. However, the only modification I think I might want to make is to replace the square gate with an octagonal one. I didn’t think I’d have a problem with square gates, but after playing for so long on a friend’s octagonal gate, I’m finding it tough to switch.
I’ve been looking around at some tutorials for this, and it doesn’t seem like it’ll be that complex, but they weren’t very good. What exactly would I need to buy? And are there any good tutorials out there for simply replacing the gate?
Back in my time, I had to learn things myself.
First you need to know how to get access to inside of your HRAP 3.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132472
Then you do this to JLF.
[media=youtube]ziMSr52xD0k[/media]
I mean, normally I would just try to do it myself, but with delicate stuff like this where any mistake could be pretty pricey, I’d prefer just to ask people who clearly know more than I do.
Thanks for the help.
Umm… My USB cable on my Hrap3 is not soldered. It is just connected to the PCB with a 5-pin haress.
Mine is a amazon ediiton one though so I don’t know, might be different. Just take it apart and look.
Real quick, just to make sure I don’t order the wrong part… I should get a Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate, correct? Apparently they’re only like $5 at http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/joysticks.shtml[/media] which seems thankfully cheap.
Yup, that’s what you need if you have a JLF. I’ve got one & it feels better than a square gate then again it’s just personal preference. Also, might want to look in the trading outlet forum since there’s a guy selling a version of the octogate on there.
What’s this about the HRAP 2 PCB’s frying? (Can anybody confirm this?) I just bought an HRAP 2 SA off ebay and i’m kinda paranoid about it lol.
Hey guys, I just have a quick question about the HRAP1’s and their names. From what I understand, there are 3 versions of the HRAP1.
Examples of all 3:
Mirrored:
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk250/DarkHadouXS/StockHori.jpg
Brushed metal:
Glossy black:
http://www.1024-bit.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/200648-hrap01_super.jpg
I’ve heard HRAP1, HRAP1B, HRAP1v2, etc. and I’d like to know which one is which. I actually own the glossy black one and the smudges it gets drives me insane.
Are you sure the Glossy Black is different from the Mirror?
Because I’ve seen a lot of them before, and they the same.
I have a “Glossy Black” one too.
Which is to me Mirror.
Unless I been looking at all the same ones.
Laugh.
But people type HRAP1B same as HRAP1v2.
Both those refer to the same.
Which is the non-Shiny.
I don’t know if anybody has asked this question or answered this question, but the cable from PS1/PS2 HRAP/T5/T4 sticks seems to be interchangable. I just installed a T4 cable on my HRAP2 Amazon Orange stick and it works just fine. The fit is only slightly different, and it’s not something that most people would even notice unless looking very very close at the hole for the cable to go through.
Hori Arcana Heart 2 Stick
I don’t know if anyone cares but the ps2 Hori Arcana Heart 2 stick uses snap-on buttons but the pcb board is soldered onto the buttons
Soldered, yes.
Hey can anyone tell me if the HRAP3SA is common ground?
Yes.
Oh, nice. Thanks for the quick reply.
hello.
i have a HRAP3 SA and i want to replace the stick for seimitsu, does anyone knows wich one should i use?
Thanks in advance, and sorry for my english 
You can use anything you want.
Seimitsu LS-32-01, LS-40-01, LS-55-01, LS-56-01.
LS-56-01 would require you to swap the default VF Mounting Plate with MS Mounting Plate.