Wow thanks man.
I’m also trying to figure out if it’s possible to gut my HRAP2 SA for the buttons and place them in my HRAP3. I haven’t played a PS2 fighter in over a year and my better stick is just sitting around.
Does anybody know if Art’s plexi will fit the Hori HX3-52 Xbox 360 Tekken 6 Real Arcade Pro EX Fighting Stick? I read somewhere on here that the button layout and stick spacing are slightly different…just need to make sure before I buy it because I want to mod with Art’s plexi/artwork service.
Also, is it a JLF or LS32? I’m seeing people say both…WTF?
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-dd-77-1-49-en-70-3k8j-40-1.html#reviews
Thanks & sorry if its already been answered…searched everywhere.
Will not fit.
arthong never got someone to send HRAP Tekken 6.
And it is JLF.
Stupid people say LS-32.
But the person on Play-Asia is not wrong.
He is talking about HRAP Mushihimesama Futari.
You are wrong for thinking he talking about HRAP Tekken 6.
Ahhhhha, you are da man! Thanks
I’m seeing this stick brand new for $70, aren’t they supposed to be around $130?
Yes, HRAP Tekken 6 is low price for some reason.
I don’t know why.
Tekken 6 Bundle cheap now too.
I recently replaced the Sanwa stick in my HRAP EX with an identical one ordered from Lizard Lick, due to problems evident with the stick (after testing by means of touching wires together). All was well for about 30 matches, until up/left started becoming less responsive. All 4 main directions work fine. What does this mean? It is possible my microswitches are out of place? May the stick be faulty? I assume if all 4 directions work, it can’t be the board, since the diagonals are simply combinations of 2 main directions. Any ideas here? Further elaboration can be found here: http://shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=231101
Move the Microswitches arround.
If same problem with the same direction, then is HRAP PCB.
If problem is in different direction, then is wrong with Microswitch.
But you have problem before switching to new Joystick.
And you still have problem after switching.
And you don’t feel that it is PCB problem?
I do feel so.
Weird how you say that you test that the four directions works.
And if the four directions work, then it cannot be PCB.
That is funny thinking to me.
Laugh.
You don’t see me laughing at your grammar and capitalization.
So are you going to test or not?
I omit a lot of words from my sentences and structure them how it is seen on purpose.
It is just to keep the format of how I type my Posts for SRK.
And in almost all my Posts, I always include the laugh.
So what is up with you taking offense?
Laugh.
I will test it. I still don’t see how it could logically be the PCB though. If all a diagonal input is is the combination of two main directions, and all four main directions work perfectly, how could the problem be in the PCB? Is it not solely the microswitches/stick that accounts for diagonal input?
But what about having the same problem even after replacing with a new Joystick?
And the PCB has to interpret two simultaneous signals to give a combined output, right?
Now, you also asked if it could be that your Microswitches are not seated correctly.
Then test without Restrictor Gate; do it with Microswitches directly in your hand.
But that should not even be the problem.
What size paper can I use to print out my own artwork a3 high glossy is best?(i’m using the normal not the extended plexi)
You can use Legal.
That is the smallest standard paper size you can use.
But yes, if you are not United States, then A3 would be same.
And gloss is not cool for use with acrylic on top.
Can get the smudge.
Ah okay, also with the hrap 3, I just got mine is there a plastic protective layer on the top panel when you get it, i see abit of bubbling around the bolts, or is that a plastic layer that should stay on?
Also, does anyone know what type bolts, nuts and washers to get to for the top so I can access the inside from the top? I pm’d that guy that was selling the colored ones awhile ago but I guess hes gone
and is there anything you can put on the case to rub light buffs and scratches out? without making it a lighter greyish color like i did on one part of my other hrap 3 using 600 grit sandpaper
Hey, so I bought a HRAP3 with the tekken 6 top art. Turns out the button layout and joystick position is just a few mm different than a standard HRAP3.
Does anyone happen to have a template made for this variation of the HRAP3?
is that all the difference is? because the Tekken 6 HRAP EX is going for 65 on amazon brand new. I was wondering if there was any other difference between that and the regular HRAP EX. The HRAP 3 and EX have a sanwa stick and hori buttons, correct?
Not yet.
Yes, same parts to each other.
HRAP EX has Universal Mounting Bracket though.
Able to install Seimitsu LS-32 no problem.
HRAP Tekken 6 has non-Universal Mounting Bracket.
Will require modify for installing Seimitsu LS-32.
HRAP Tekken 6 has same Mounting Bracket at HRAP 3; not cool.
But HRAP Tekken 6 has Mounting Bracket horizontal, not vertical.
I have a HRAP1 Ver B and I want to do a very ambitious mod on it, with a MC Cthulhu Board, a MadCatz 360 Controller PCB and a RJ45 jack for multiple consoles.
These sticks have very little space inside, so how easy is it to gut the insides without the stick falling apart, or can everything inside be removed without damaging the case?
What sort of PCB does the HRAP EX use? AKA, where could I find one to replace the existing one? And, how difficult is this to do generally (for someone who’s never done it)?
I replaced all the bullshit quick disconnects with new, more sturdy ones to make sure it wasn’t the wiring. And in fact, everything worked 100% perfect for about 70 goddamn matches. No joke. I was certain that was the problem. And then last night after much play, left became less responsive. And it’s fine today. So it must be the PCB. Although the coincidence that it worked for so long after replacing the quick disconnects (never worked that long in months) is hard to grasp.
So, yeah. PCB. Would Lizard Lick have one?