I think he wants to have the converter inside the case.
I think he is wanting his HRAP 3 to be PlayStation 2.
And using Converter to be for PlayStation 3.
Let me clarify. I plan to put a PS2 pcb inside the HRAP3 and have a PS2 cord out because there are still a few games I might try out on the PS2. I’ve heard that HRAP2 have a detachable PS2 cord that’s why I’m asking if the HRAP3 also has a detachable USB cord. It might come handy when I switch it back to PS3 only (migrate the PS2 pcb or for selling).
Oh, I understand now.
It is cooler when people type what they want clearly.
USB cable is soldered.
Hey guys, I need some advice.
I live in Japan and I recently bought the Hori RAP 3 V3 SA. This one: http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-zl-77-5-49-en-15-real+arcade+pro-70-3nvh.html
I have the thing for not even TWO DAYS and it decides to start messing up. The stick itself has auto-fire, and it seems that the TRIANGLE button is stuck with the lowest setting on. Nothing will turn it off, not unplugging it, not turning the system off, nothing.
So I don’t know what to do. I thought about returning it, but Japanese return policies suck donkey balls, so I’m weary about this one.
I think I just want to open it up and try to turn the turbo off myself manually somehow. I heard that these sticks are easy to open up and mod. Is that true? If so, is it possible to just remove a wire or something that connects the button to the turbo function?
nvm…o_0
hey all. what size do i have to print out my HRAP EX art?
100% of the Template.
Size is already set correctly.
I have a HRAP EX-SE for 360…and I love it? question though…is there anyway I can get a bat top instead of the ball top on there without replacing the stick?
Just replace the Ball top with Bat Top is all.
Unscrew old, screw on new.
You forgot to mention it needs a thread adapter.
I did not forget.
I know I did not mention.
I did not mention that on purpose.
i want to know if PS3 T6 Hrap 3 uses quick disconnect for buttons please
EDIT: found the answer few pages before, thank you JDM714, i was sure only for the EX one.
so i finally got the Madcatz Se stick pcb and everything inside that stick to go into a T5 stick and everything was fine…except the stick its somehow completely dead. i tried another stick and it worked i doubt madcatz would send me a replacement
I got a Question, I Have an Original HRAP 1and I see that the Stick is a JLF-TP-8Y-SK. Can I upgrade to a JLF-TP-8YT-SK for the HRAP 1 or is it the same thing?
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
The first HRAP, the one with Mirror Top, actually had JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Then the second version of the first HRAP, the non-Mirror Top, had JLF-TP-8Y-SK.
The first version has Universal Mounting Bracket; able to install Seimitsu LS-32-01.
The second version has non-Universal Mounting Bracket; cannot install Seimitsu LS-32-01.
Soooo no need to upgrade… They just added a plate to it, that’s all. I just figured I had this stick for Years now, So I wanted to revive it with new Artwork and maybe New stick and buttons. I just wanted to know if the 8YT was better.
I could have given you a direct answer.
Instead I gave you that to figure out the difference yourself. :sad:
Sorry for that man.
But I like to let others know through reading and learning.
Well now you know.
And you passed the Quiz.
I don’t like the smtsu stick in my HRAP EX and I want to put a jlf in it. Can someone tell me which jlf is the easiest install? Do i have to buy a mount for the jlf? anything i should know before i take out the smtsu?
You know my Post above about JLF?
Yes, that.
You will need any JLF with a JLF-P-1.
Now there are two options.
One to use JLF-TP-8, other to use JLF-TM-8.
With a JLF-TP-8, you will have to cut the Ground Traces of the Joystick PCB.
That is because the HRAP EX SE is not Common Ground.
And then solder the wires direct to Microswitches.
If you do not want to cut the Traces, then just desolder the Microswitches.
Then throw away the PCB, and solder to Microswitches.
With a JLF-TM-8, there is no soldering involved, unless you want to.
Just add .187" Quick Disconnect to the wires and pop onto the Microswitches.