which stick do you own? so your saying one of the wires is totally disconnected from the white pin connector on the harness? if so, did the whole wire come out of the white connector or did the wire get cut and a piece of wire is still sticking out from the white connector? pics?
ok so i have a hrap ex the one for xbox. not the new one
buttt the old one. and like i opened up the stick and
if i push the wires further into the black connector thingy
the joystick works. but it only works when i do that.
i checked and it seems all the wires are in place.
so i just need to know how to push the wires further into the black harness.
Is it possible to put a Seimitsu LS-32-01 inside the upcoming white and black PS3 Real Arcade Pro. 3-SA that you can preorder at Amazon?
I’m looking for an all Seimitsu HRAP for PS3 for under $200 and I figure this is the only way to go (without trying to install a cthulhu board in a 360 SE).
Yes, can put Seimitsu LS-32-01 Joystick into HRAP 3 SA, no problem.
bumpp
Is the HRAP 3 SA now on sale in the US backwards compatible with PS2 games and is it PC compatible?
im pretty sure on the pc thing. WOuldnt mind knowing the answer about the backwards comp.
I got the HRAP 3 SA that was on sale recently and have a 60gb PS3. I tested Guilty Gear AC+ and it seems to work without any problems. Haven’t tested it out on PC.
oh yeah the cord that goes into the joystick tore. =((
does that means its completely dead now?
YRMV*, but it seems that my spiffy new HRAP3 SA does everything the MadCatz SF4 TE PS3 should have done - PC and PS2/PS1 software backwards compatibility on the PS3 without hitches!
*There is a blurb on the box saying backwards compatibility is not guaranteed.
I bought an HRAP1 non-mirror top off of someone in my local scene without knowing much because it was a good deal but my only complaint is the ball in the joystick screws off really easily. If I didn’t twist it back in mid match then sometimes it would fall off. Is this common to the HRAP1 or is something just f’d up somewhere. My friend said I should pop it open and see if the stick is screwed in properly but I don’t want to do that unless its actually fixable.
Also, is my stick the one with the mounting plate that makes replacing the stick impossible? I’ve gotten used to the feel of it but if something were to happen I would like the option to replace/upgrade and I’m not sure how it stands atm. Thanks.
You open the case to get access to Sanwa Joystick.
At end of Shaft is a slot.
Place a flathead screwdriver there.
Hold Shaft in place with screwdriver while you tighten Ball Top.
That is how it is done.
Are you afraid of opening the HRAP?
The HRAP you have is the one not compatible with Seimitsu LS-32-01, yes.
A lot to modify if you want to put in an LS-32-01.
You can remove the Mounting Bracket and drill into the Control Panel.
You can modify the Seimisu LS-32-01 like Erwin did.
http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-14.html
A Seimitsu Joystick you can put in with no problem is Seimitsu LS-56-01.
Put in Seimitsu LS-55-01 also if you want.
LS-33 will be short.
i need some advice, i have an HRAP1 that works flawlessly with of course PS1/PS2 fighters, i also use it on my Dreamcast with a converter. with Tatsunoko vs Capcom coming to the Wii in a short time i would like to use it on my Wii. i found a generic looking purple Playstation to Gamecube adapter at Gamestop. when i connect the HRAP i am able use the buttons, but the stick does not move my characters, i can’t navigate menu’s either.
i saw that PlayAsia has a “Classic Linker” adapter
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-10y-49-en-70-34yd.html
would this work in my situation? is there a different solution?
thanks for your help.
My apologies if these questions have been asked already but I was curious,
I am currently in the market for a Hori Real Arcade Pro Ex for the 360 and I have three questions.
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Is the top panel metal? Actually, is the whole stick pretty much made out of some sort of alloy or is there plastic somewhere on the body?
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Will Seimitsu PS-14-GNC fit into all 8 holes? It looks like one of the button slots is too close to the mounting bracket to tighten the fastener but I wasn’t sure.
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Is the Sanwa stick soldered to the PCB? or is it like the madcatz SE and TE where it’s easily disconnected.
cheers!
Top Panel is metal, yes.
Bottom Panel is metal.
Case is all plastic.
Seimitsu Nut will squeeze under Mounting Bracket.
Put in Nut, screw in Button; opposite of putting in Button, screw on Nut.
The Sanwa JLF used in HRAP EX does not have PCB.
It has individual Microswitches with each one soldered to wires.
Each Microswitch has two wires, eight wires total will go to Hori PCB.
Anyone have any idea what the heck this is? The description claims it’s a stock HRAP2, but it has a black body. I would have assumed it was just an HRAP2 put in a T5 stick or similar shell, but the turbo switch area is black as well. It looks exactly like an HRAP SA but if you enlarge the photo it clearly says “Real Arcade Pro 2” with no “Special Addition” underneath. If I had the money I’d buy it out of sheer curiousity.
I have a hrap3 modded with sanwa buttons, what are you guys suggestions on adding weights? The stick sometimes shakes when i perform a combo or something.
Has anyone tried to change the artwork from the HRAP3 SA while keeping the clear top? i’m mean the thing that looks like a “soft” plexi.
I just ordered one of these stick and was wondering the same too. I was wondering if anyone actually attempted custom art for it at all lol. But it doesn’t seen to be hard since it has top screw like TE. May be the work is the same. I’ve been searching the forum and there isn’t any thread for custom art on HRAP at all. I might start one.
HORI Real Arcade Pro.EX is on sale at PlayAsia for $99
also you can use a discount code for that
try http://play-asia-couponcodes.blogspot.com/ worked for me