Hori Real Arcade Pro FAQ for all versions

jinxmitchell · August 11, 2009, 6:32am

I have two of them setup for public use for 3 months now and no issues. i know 3 months isn’t long, but the sticks take a beating. They are hooked up through inPin’s though, so I think if there is any tugging, it just comes unplugged from the adapter.

Don’t pull on it unless you are gonna hit up Arthong for a new plexi.

System_1 · August 11, 2009, 6:40am

I have exactly the same question… Actually what does happen if you pull up on it? Will it just make a mess of things? I have a very small scratch on one part… I was thinking about trying to buff it out with a dremel, but unsure of the outcome…

jinxmitchell · August 11, 2009, 8:50am

the plastic isn’t designed to come off.

Jughead · August 11, 2009, 6:43pm

Thanks Jinx.

Ikagi-chan · August 15, 2009, 8:10am

Okay, hopefully this is the correct place to ask this question.

I want to get an plexiglass panel overlay from arthong for my Hori Real Arcade Pro 2 SA. The only problem is that he only offers covers for the Real Arcade Pro 1, the Tekken 5 stick (which if you ask me was kind of pointless since it’s basically the HRAP1 layout without the turbo window cut) and the Real Arcade Pro 3/EX (at least, I think it said EX). Now the thing is I want to retain the absolute best layout in the world (read: 8 button Versus City layout) but I also want to have the window for my turbo switches cut.

So, in short, is the HRAP3/EX’s turbo/PS/L3/R3/Guide/headset window the same dimensions as the turbo switch window on a HRAP1/2?

dav3yb · August 16, 2009, 1:02am

does anyone know what kind of mounting plate is on the HRAP2 SA’s? will the SA’s fit a Semitsu stick, or does it just have the bracket like the HRAP3’s that just take the JLF?

Ikagi-chan · August 16, 2009, 1:47am

dav3yb, the Hori Real Arcade Pro 2 SA can indeed fit a Seimitsu stick. It’s got a “universal” mounting bracket that can take any of Sanwa’s joysticks and any Seimitsu joystick with the S mounting plate. I don’t know if you can use joysticks like an LS-33 or 56 with a V mounting plate though since I’ve never personally used one. But, considering that some people have successfully put one into a Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 without any modding needed, those should work fine as well.

TingBoy · August 16, 2009, 2:15am

@FunkyF

I had mine zip-tied up when not in use for the first 2 years I had the stick. No cord breaking problems. Ever since I got a free extension cord, I just keep it tied up and use the extension cord. I only untie it if I really need the length.

dav3yb · August 16, 2009, 3:32am

ok, thanks… ive been considering replacing my HRAP3’s w/ 2’s. especially if the new ps2-360 adapters works as good as initial tests reveal.

Capn_Spanky · September 7, 2009, 9:06pm

Anyone have experience with the HRAP Amazon Japan edition? I believe it’s the one with Orange Buttons, supposedly all Sanwa.

Good purchase for $90, new in box?

FunkyF · September 8, 2009, 3:02am

Amazon.jp sells it for about $90, so that is a pretty good price.

Twist · September 8, 2009, 3:14am

I’m thinking about replacing the buttons in my HRAP3 and was reading this guide. Does the HRAP3 have the same tabs on the button holes that would need to be grinded off?

EDIT: I think I’ve just found the answer to my own question: Link

AJtheMishima · September 8, 2009, 9:52am

No HRAP sticks will not have the tabs, but other non HRAP hori sticks will have the tabs like the t5, fs3, ex2, etc

Thirteen · September 26, 2009, 8:35am

Looking online it seems like a HRAP3-SA has a brushed metal top panel. Is this right or is it just some lame sticker like a normal HRAP3?

Halvie · September 29, 2009, 11:57pm

Can you take the top plate off an SA and put it on a non-sa hrap? Want to the have top screws on the amazon white hrap3.

AJtheMishima · September 30, 2009, 12:32am

yes you can switch top plates. I used hot glue, philips head screws and nuts on my t5 cases so i can easily remove the top plate without taking the bottom plate off.

edit- heres a post that can help you

GeorgeC:

Had to redo this post because of image size issues!

Note to self – always shrink digital camera images to 1/4 size in PS before posting here!

I’ve taken it upon myself to replace ALL the carriage posts in my Hori HRAP-style cases. (6 cap socket mods to date.) Carriage bolts, IMHO, are the worst piece of hardware Hori uses in its sticks and make both maintenance and mods 10 times harder than they have to be. Which would YOU rather deal with? 6 screws to tighten/loosen, or 26 screws, bolts, nuts, and washers?

The cap sockets of course go in the location of the carriage bolts (faceplate corners and faceplate middles top and bottom) in the T5/HRAP faceplate base as pictured here –
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/d9e72a8e0e.jpg

I try to reuse as much of the T5 hardware as possible to save money and headaches. Although I have no use for carriage bolts (but I’ll still selling my leftovers once I qualify for the Trading Outlet!), the hex nuts are VERY useful. (I DO NOT reuse the washers associated with the hex nuts as they are not needed.) The hex nuts become “thread mounts” for the cap sockets that I bought off eBay. I use a lot of heat gun glue to secure the hex nuts to the inside of the T5 faceplate base. I, of course, do tighten them as much as possible to the thread of the cap socket before I pour on the heat gun glue.
After 24 hours of drying/hardening, the glue looks like this around the hex nut–
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/48c114d43f.jpg

Here’s a pic of the standard Hori cap socket screw used in the HRAP SA line and the Arcana Heart 2 joystick.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/bec3777297.jpg

The cap sockets I bought online have heads smaller than this but the the threads are the same M4 threading. Cap sockets are much easier to deal with than carriage bolts and frankly I like tearing through the top of the stick faceplate better than going through the base bottom!

Here’s a pic comparing the standard Hori carriage bolt to the cap socket screw (pictured on the right) I bought online. No question which I like better – cap socket all the way!
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/8e05168eaf.jpg

System_1 · October 5, 2009, 9:01am

sorry if this has been asked before but basically my joystick has stopped working.like the buttons are fine but theres something wrong with the wire and it only works when it wants to. any advice?

Thirteen · October 5, 2009, 9:12am

I had the same problem with the start button on my HRAP3. Apparently the twist tie bundling the wires together actually ended up cutting the wire due to friction somehow. If this happens to the ground on your joystick it would totally stop functioning as you’ve described.

AJtheMishima · October 5, 2009, 5:26pm

open you stick up and look at the wire harness. Make sure it is fully connected to the joystick. If it is, when look at the 5 wires of the harness, especially the black one and make sure there are no cuts or anything.

System_1 · October 6, 2009, 3:05am

thanks for the answers and i opened it up
and it seems like the wire isnt connected to the wire harness. =((
do you know how to fix that?