selling my hori pro ex for 360 for $150. all it needs is new microswitches, i just switched from 360 to PS3 for SF4 to play with friends so i dont really have the desire to install the switches since I’ll never use it. Its a great stick for someone who wants to save some $ and do a small repair.
You said you bought two new Microswitches to put in your HRAP EX.
Bought new Microswitches because you dropped the HRAP EX, and when replaced, still not work.
So you’re not going to include the Microswitches you bought?
But why would the problem be Microswitch?
You say that when you dropped HRAP EX, your Octagonal Restrictor Gate broke.
So you put in the Square.
Then you noticed that the Microswitches move around, as in not seating properly.
You also wanted to buy Joystick to replace the JLF in your HRAP EX.
You were not sure if there is Joystick problem, or even HRAP EX PCB.
I don’t know what is going on.
You are wanting to sell your HRAP EX, and the things I have read been weird.
You just joined June 2009.
You can’t even sell on SRK yet.
Need to have at least Fifty Posts and have Six Months activity from Join Date.
first, sorry for trying to sell on this forum w/o enough time put in… i realize wanted to sell it sounds odd, but i actually figured out the problem. it was the replacement microswitches i got from grainger. i got the 0.06amp ones and they work fine in both sticks. i finally just swapped them in my other stick on the ps3 b/c they were better than the stock ones it had.
in any case, tootaloo.
So it looks like I’ve developed a break in my HRAP EX’s cable about an inch to an inch and a half away from the body of the stick. I’m considering cutting before the break and doing an RJ45 mod with my own cables.
Now my question is if the pinout/color coding of the cables is standard USB color coding or is it different at all?
HRAP3 issue
After about 3 months of use my HRAP3 is giving me an issue. The joystick won’t go in the down direction. I don’t think I’m ineligible for warranty work since I didn’t purchase at an authorized dealer. What’s the best way of solving this issue myself? Thanks in advance. Any help is greatly appreciated.
DOPE!
I’ve got one of these with a clear bubble balltop and 6 white sanwa buttons and 2 dark blue, but they don’t look nearly as nice as either of these but especially the one with the clear semitsu buttons and white meshball.
the cable is a standard USB cable, mesh ground surround and 4 colored inner cables. If the break is causing an issue, cut the cable, solder the ground mesh to the other side (rolling it into a cable type shape makes it easier) and then solider the 4 colored cables together. I hope this helps, I’ve had to do the same to sticks I’ve had in the past… If the joystick still works, don’t sweat it, the mesh ground cable can be exposed and still work fine, if thats the case, just wrap it with electrical tape to protect.
i recently purchased a hrap 3 and was wondering whether the gate for the joystick is square or octagonal?
Square.
thanks for the quick reply ^^
The gates for all joysticks are square by default unless the manufacturer or dealer says otherwise.
There are stocks sold online where they tell you the sticks are modded with octagonal gates and Sanwa/Seimitsu parts… All official HRAPs (not all licensed Hori stocks) come with JLF joysticks and Hori stock buttons. You do get charged extra at most online shops for those Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons mods, too, which is fair since the parts don’t figure into the initial cost of the stick. Frankly, I don’t think they shouldn’t be charging more than $150 (the same price as the MadCatz TE) for modded HRAPs unless they include customized graphics and plexiglass but I have seen modded sticks going for $200.
ADDED:
The HRAP FAQ should be updated with this information about the Hori licensed Arcana Heart 2 joystick – I haven’t seen this anywhere else
Arcana Heart 2 Joystick
Release date: April 10 2009; Online Hori store exclusive
- HRAP-style base, white; not a true HRAP stick
- released to coincide with Arcana Heart 2 game release on PS2 (Japan/Asia)
- M4 or M5 style cap sockets on faceplate; this is the only non-HRAP stick offered by Hori that I’m aware of that has cap sockets on the faceplate; all the other licensed sticks and non-SA/SE edition HRAP sticks have carriage bolts
(NOTE: It’s possible different production runs of this stick alternated between carriage bolts and cap sockets; my copy of the stick has cap sockets for sure! Ironically, the picture of the stick on the box it’s packed in clearly has carriage bolts… That picture is probably of a prototype or pre-production run stick.) - JLF arcade stick standard => JLF-TP-8Y-SK-W* (W for white ball handle); shaft cover and dust covers on stick; quick disconnect harness from PCB
- licensed anime style artwork on faceplate based on the Arcana Heart fighting game series; main character art on faceplate = Heart Aino
- faceplate broadly similar to Tekken 5 (American) edition faceplate with tabs in main action button holes
- 10 Hori stock buttons soldered into PCB; these can be removed and upgraded via the Tekken 5 mod FAQ thread
- Action Button Layout unique to Arcana Heart series, Left to Right =>
Top Row: Square Triangle O L2
Botttom Row: X L1 R1 R2 - Button configuration can easily be rejuggled to HRAP 2 SA/HRAP 3 configuration by crossing soldered-in wire disconnections to replacement buttons
- PS2 native; can be used with USB adaptor on PS3, Mac OS X, and Windows with proper drivers
- stick is fairly easy to mod; watch out on scratching the art when grinding the tabs with a dremel, though!
quick question is it possible for me to mod my HRAP3 to 360 using my xbox 360 controller pcb?
HRAP 3 to use on Wii
any adapter yet?
No adapter exists to convert a PS3 joystick to use on the Wii. You will probably need to run some sort of dual PCB setup.
is the mounting bracket in the hrap 3 similar or different from the one in the american tekken 5 stick?
You didn’t see the other Thread where I answered that for you?
no, guess ill look
edit- thanks jdm, pics and everything. I never saw that thread go back to the top of the forums during the day so i just mentally wrote it off.
Quick question for HRAP 2 owners. I know the cords have a tendency to break, so I was curious to how people avoided this issue. Do you guys keep your cord tied and just use extension cables, or do you just tie it up when it is not in use?