I just purchased this stick from playasia. Is that the HRAP ver B.? there was no picture for it on the main page. I want to know if it’s possible to switch out the stock buttons for the seimitsu PS-14-KNs without the additional hassle of having to sand anything down or whatever. Otherwise I’ll just go with the OBSNs.
i have a hori capcom fighting jam stick modded for 360 and i was wondering if i was to swap out the standard Sanwa JLF for a Seimitsu LS-32-01, will i need to re-ground everything or do any other modding or is it just plug and play?
thanks in advance
that is version b if you can use screw in for every button except L2 unless you plan on putting button plugs on L1/2.
Why is that exactly? Unless there’s a way around that I think I’ll just order the Sanwa snap-ins to save myself the hassle… and because I’m not a huge button person as it is. I just wanted the other ones because they looked sicker tbh.
My only quarrel now is coming up with a sick colour scheme. I’m feeling the Guilty Gear colour coding for my non-fighting game friends that like to play it with me. Something like:
[P][P][P][Y]
[P][Y][P][Y]
[P=Purple]
[Y=Yellow]
With a purple balltop and white start/select buttons.
@ above poster: did you happen to notice that I ordered an HRAP1? “wow”.
besides the button layout what’s the difference?
I find the Sanwa to be very smooth to the fingers and it’s easier to connect button combinations since they have such an excellent tactile response.
With the Hori buttons, they felt like they needed a bit more force to push and a larger dead zone. I felt like I was using a lot of force when I was playing with Hori buttons.
The Seimitsu buttons are quite similar to the Sanwa buttons in that they also are very responsive to touch and have a very slight clicky feel to it.
Overall the Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons are a great improvement over the Hori buttons. My friend was looking at both buttons and said that the housing on the Hori buttons looked a bit better and felt stronger. He suggested I switch out the microswitch from the Sanwa OBSF-30 and try it out in the Hori. I can’t be bothered to do that now since everything’s changed and the HRAP is screwed back together 
The Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons needed a bit of force to push into the HRAP3 panel. Once in place they are very tight, unlike the Hori buttons where I could rotate them on the face of the joystick.
But yes, the Sanwa buttons are not a perfect fit. Once you have them clicked in place they are very steady and secure.
The Seimitsu screw in buttons are very easy to fasten. At first I was worried that the placement of the buttons was too close for the nut to fasten on to each button. But after securing each button, there’s literally a 1 to 2mm gap between each nut that secures each button. My only concern is that they will get a bit loose after some play and wear, but it can always be tightened up.
I’ll post some pics of the two joysticks later this week!
I’m not sure exactly, but I know there were some modability issues with the second run of the HRAP1 (as a few posters have said, something about L2 not fitting into place for screw-ins, and the LS-32 not being mountable). Also, there were in fact a few special runs of the HRAP1 that use the sanwa control panel layout found on the HRAP2/3 (Tekken 5 JP, SE, SA), which leads me to ask as well,
What is the difference between the HRAP1 and the HRAP2?
BTW, the Seimitsu 2P layout looks like it would be inferior to the Sanwa layout. Why on earth did they make the first sticks like that anyways?
The price gouging on those Amazon HRAP3 sticks has got to stop. They’re going for 8379 yen with FREE SHIPPING within Japan, so that’s only $86.63. Why are those things selling for $199+ before international shipping price?
the L2 button is too close to the mounting plate area and it wont fit unless you sand the nut so it can fit in
they have different layouts
Until Amazon Japan starts shipping the sticks to the US, the “gouging” won’t stop. It costs around $90 to buy, then you have to pay somebody to buy it for you, then pay international shipping, then you have to turn a profit, otherwise why did you even do it in the first place? When you sell it eBay takes something obscene like 15%. In the end, the guys selling them have a terrible profit margin. As a business owner, I don’t feel it’s worth selling them in the US at the price they are charging unless they have a huge amount of money to buy product.
It costs somewhere around $15-20 per item to have somebody in Japan buy an item for you, then I’d guess around $25 for shipping, bringing the price to $130. Sell it at $200 and say ebay only takes 10%, so the cost is now $150. Assume customs didn’t cost anything and paypal is free. You made $50 for putting out three times that amount.
In somewhat unrelated news, it turns out I’ve had an LS-56-01 for years and didn’t know it (it was in my Saturn Virtua Stick Pro HSS-0136). I may have to mount it in my HRAP2 just to see how it feels in comparison to the JLF.
does anyone know the dimensions of the inside of the hrap1? i want to know if the xbox live retro stick pcb will fit inside the stick without hitting anything.
I have a HRAP1 (Type A) mirror top and I was just wondering if the pcb is common ground?
Interesting someone mentioned the Amazon.jp price for the HRAP3. I just received two units last week and I waited about 90 days for my order to ship. I purchased two of the Amazon.jp white HRAP3 sticks and had them shipped to a friend that lives in Nagoya.
The total for both sticks came out to $205 Canadian funds after exchange. What a great deal, I thought to myself!
It was the shipping that killed the deal.
My friend shipped out both boxes (which are quite big since the HRAP3 was shipped inside another shipping box from Amazon) and the cost to ship out each joystick was 7500 Yen. This is using Airmail service; it might have been EMS. This was from Nagoya to Vancouver, Canada.
If you go to Japan’s Postal Service official website and enter dimensions and weight, you will see that the cheapest shipping option is about 6600 Yen which is by Ocean/Surface mail… This takes upwards of 3-6 weeks to deliver since travels on ocean vessel and then by land.
After wiring funds to my friend, the total cost for shipping worked out to be $190 Canadian.
So in total, the cost of each of my HRAP3 is just under $200 CAD - about $197.50 each.
No taxes or duties as my friend declared them as a gift with a low value for customs.
In the end I paid more than I would have liked to but I did get my HRAP3 joysticks. I paid a premium for the Amazon.jp white edition and I do not regret it.
Going back to your point and also to the question about price gouging, my example demonstrates the costs involved with just shipping the items from Japan to US. When you consider all the other things you mentioned as a business or private seller, there is not much room for profit margin especially if you only import a few units at a time.
I can understand that a price of US $199 plus shipping on eBay or Amazon.com looks crazy, but just consider that these guys might have had to go through the trouble of importing it before selling it to you. Either that or they just want to rip people off :badboy:
If you can find an authorized seller of the HRAP3 that has them in stock, usually the prices are MSRP and no higher.
E.g. Amazon.com (not the marketplace), Arcadeshock, NCSX.
To the poster who was looking for HRAP3’s at a decent price, I suggest checking arcadeshock.com for availability. They are selling them at MSRP US $99.99 + shipping which is fairly reasonable. The ETA for these is mid to late June. When I checked with them before, it was $99.99 + $60 for Airmail shipping to Canada which is not too bad.
Will happ buttons fit in a hrap case if i cut the plastic housing thats under the buttons?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a158/LLDre/IMAG0051.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a158/LLDre/IMAG0052.jpg
They fit in my case with out cutting the housing thats a picture of the button flush with the switch under and no cutting.
Yes it is and I have made a (lazy) diagram of what is what.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a158/LLDre/IMAG0050.jpg
Unfortunately I cannot find out which is the 5v or 3.3v.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a158/LLDre/IMAGE_054.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a158/LLDre/IMAGE_054.jpg
I know its one of these any help?
I have the Hori PRO EX stick for the xbox and I dropped it and somehow damaged the microswitch operation. I bought two new micro switches and while they all work outside of the stick, when i put them in the restrictor plate, they don’t work like they used to… the movements are sporadic and generally just bad.
I want to replace the entire joystick, but I want to make sure I get the right one. I prefer the “bat” style, but I think I need to stick to the JLF series sticks… I just need to know which ones will work.
Will the Sanwa JLF-TP-8T work? The plate looks different than mine, the plate on my stick looks more like http://lizardlick.com/images/for_sale/joysticks/jlf_p_1s.jpg.
Any pointers would be appreciated.
You mean Hori Real Arcade Pro. EX right?
It is for Xbox 360.
You mentioned Xbox, and there is no HRAP for it.
There is however Hori Fighting Stick EX.
But since you make Post in this Thread, I will think you mean HRAP and Xbox 360.
The HRAP EX has a Sanwa JLF-TM-8.
Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K to be exact.
So it has a JLF-P1, not JLF-P1-S like you linked from Lizard Lick.
(JLF-TP-8T has JLF-P1, if it had what you linked, then it would have been JLF-TP-8S.)
The JLF in HRAP EX is JLF-TM-8T-SK-K, not JLF-TM-8S-SK-K.
You probably confused the Mounting Bracket and thought it like JLF-P1-S Mounting Plate.
The HRAP EX is not Common Ground.
So if want to use JLF-TP variety, then you will need to cut the Traces on the Sanwa TP-MA (PCB Microswitch Assembly).
But you replaced your JLF-TM-8 with two new Microswitches, and movements still weird?
That has me think that it is not Joystick problem.
More of a PCB problem of the HRAP EX being dropped.
Correct, my stick is Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K and the issue I’m having is that while the microswitches work fine outside of the joystick itself, when i put them inside with the restrictor plate, combined movements arent working… for example, back works and down works, but back+down does not… the microswitches have really nothing to hold them in place without the restrictor plate and I’m wondering if they are falling out of alignment or something… seems odd.
The wires are soldered on to the microswitches, and I think they are also soldered on the board itself…
I’m looking for the cheapest and most effective way to fix this thing and/or upgrade it with a new stick…
You say it sounds like a PCB problem… Do you think the circuit board itself is damaged?