I was just going to buy it, and have it modded for dual compatibility. If that cant be done, I’ll just buy this to play SFAC on my 360 and get a T5 stick down the road for tourneys.
i forgot hrap3 wont work with ps2 DOH !!!
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-m-49-en-70-26h3.html
Better picture for the Arcana Heart HRAP. 
Button Placement:
[ ] /\ O L2
X L1 R1 R2
Just like the opening post said.
So is this Arcana HRAP going to be better than the original HRAP2? If so, how exactly? 
should it be a problem to change the layout of the buttons on the Arcana Heart HRAP
without massing too much with it?X:
like cutting or extending the wires and stuff.
I know in first post there is already guide about how to mod T5 US stick (http://himuragames.suddenlaunch3.com…num=1109887687) but damn, this looks complicated since I just started using stick and never done any mods in my life. Do I have to go through all this to just change buttons and stick? Is there any other way?
does anyone know where i can buy a pelican ps2/ps3 converter in the UK?
Searched on eBay already - nada.
I’m sure this has been asked before but how do you take the PCB out of a HRAP? I remember seeing something about this before but can’t remember what the thread was and search function isn’t helping too much. Like say I wanted to switch the PCBs in a HRAP2 and HRAP3.
If the AH HRAP does indeed use quick disconnects (like pretty much every other HRAP), then yes it should be an easy mod, all you have to do is just switch the quick disconnects onto different microswitches.
If the buttons are soldered on (probably won’t be, but who knows) then you would have to desolder the buttons and do more work.
The button placement for the Arcana HRAP is the default layout for pretty much a lot of games nowadays.
[] /\ O
X _ R1
Arcana Heart (what the stick is designed for, duh):
A B C
D
Guilty Gear XX whatever version:
K S H
P _ D
Melty Blood Act Cadenza Version B#:
A B C
D _ E
Samurai Spirits Tenkaichi Kenkakuden:
A B C
D _ E
Also even Soul Calibur, in fact this placement originated with the SC3 HRAP afterall.
What does this have to do with a HRAP? Next time go make a new thread, this thread is only for HRAP related queries.
Anyone?
I haven’t done it myself for obvious reasons, but the pcb iirc is underneath the turbo switches, so you just remove that part to get to the pcb.
Someone correct me if I am wrong on this.
is there any sites thats taking HRAP 2 release preorders yet?
I thought the PCB under the turbo switches was just for the turbo switches and there is a separate PCB for stick and buttons. If not then great that shouldn’t be too hard to remove.
disregard, solutions have been FOUND
I have a question. Is it possible to mount a seimitsu LS-33 into an OG HRAP1? What about a LS-56 or a LS-40?
I’ve noticed that the lever in the new HRAP3 does not use a mounting plate of its own, thus there is only the control panel mounting plate or “baseplate” in place, and instead of using a flat plate to mount the lever, only the two opposed plastic wings are fastened to the centre screw holes on the control panel mounting plate, as shown here: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/188/3...2e7de520a8.jpg
Or alternately here:
http://www.watch.impress.co.jp/game/docs/20070213/ggl03.jpg
I’ve also noticed that the stick in fubarduk’s (I think that’s his name) stick swapping guide is mounted with a flat plate la JLF-TP-8YT, which is strange, considering Sanwa doesn’t seem to normally offer a JLF stick with both a flat plate and a shaft cover.
And so, this brings me to two questions, the first of which is, given Hori’s fairly controversial revisions of their control panel mounting plates and now this flat plate-omission factor, can the lever be swapped in the HRAP3 with the distances between all the appropriate screw holes on the control panel mounting plate with all of the other JLF-TP series levers and possibly using a flat plate?
The other question is does the HRAP1vB use the same missing-flat-plate configuration as the HRAP3? I ask this because I’ve used a friend’s HRAP1vB controller and can testify as to its quality, but my concern is that since the wings extending from the base of the lever in the HRAP3 that are fastened to the baseplate are not very wide, the lever may be succeptible to rocking and may as a result not be as sturdy as I’ve deemed the HRAP1vB. In case it helps in prognosing any problems, I would likely be using this stick for just about every good shoot-em-up, 3S, the Tekken series and maybe even Virtua Fighter one day, and the like.
As for the sturdiness, I’ve found the following evidence indicating that the HRAP1vB does use (at least, approximately) the same configuration as the HRAP3, so I suppose I shouldn’t be worried about that.
I realize that it would be redundant to keep the four corner screw holes if the dimensions didn’t fit anything and Hori has impeded installation of the step plate for Seimitsu’s top-selling lever so they’ve clearly chosen Sanwa, and I would think that the HRAP3 can at least accomodate any of the JLF-TP series levers, but I’m advised not to assume.
I’ve made a similar post to this earlier in another thread. I hope that’s not against the rules, but once again, input is appreciated.
I don’t know about the LS-33 (it might be the same), but if by OG you mean HRAP1 version A (the first model), then an LS-40 should fit with a regular step plate. If by OG you mean the version B then you can only mount it with a flat plate but the shaft height might be too low for ease of use. I hear the LS-56 is perfect for the version B for this reason, because it has a longer shaft, although you would probably want the LS-56-01 specifically, because I think it comes with the universal 5-pin connector and you wouldn’t have to cut off any connectors or solder. As for the LS-40-01, it doesn’t seem to come with its own harness but I think it still has the universal 5-pin connector.
Thread bump, weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
what ever happened to Hori re-releasing the Hrap-2?