Hori Real Arcade Pro FAQ for all versions

Open up the pad you’re going to use, and read through the ‘padhacking’ thread. Im sure you’ll find the mapping you’re looking for in there.

i bought mine from www.videogamecentral.com
…the only thing i thought was weird is that i bought and paid for a real arcade 1 yet they sent me a real arcade 2 for the same price

I updated the first post to address some of the concerns brought up like where to buy parts.

Mas

I know peeps here are Hori fans

but I’m used to American style sticks, so I’m lookin at the MAS

The PS2/DC MAS stick, compatible with PS2–>PS3 converter lag free? I’m a MVC2-er, i need that timing tight. Any opinions is appreciated before I place an order

X-Joybox

FYI: I received my x-joybox and using the ds1 or 2 you have to press the buttons pretty firmly to have it register. i don’t deem it usable HOWEVER, when using the my T5 arcade stick it works perfectly. anyone else test this adapter with other sticks?

Real arcade 1 possible top change

Ok heres the thing i have a HRAP 1 all sanwa but i want a japanese style layout like on the HRAp 2/3 has any one tried replacing the top panel on the stick to do the same or inset artwork ???
Any help is appreciated :wgrin:
Phix

The HRAP1 is a Japanese style layout, it’s the old 2P side layout on single candy cab panels.

However, since most, if not all candy cab set ups are multi-cab, the 1P side layout has become the default layout.

People have inserted their own artwork on their HRAP1’s, 2’s, and 3’s. If you search around the forums, you’ll find out how and on what type of material.

I think that when Phix_uk said “japanese style layout” he meant japanese arcade layout used in HRAP2and3 in contrast to the console layout used in HRAP1, you know how the arcade layout has a more distinct curve cause of the last 4 buttons. And yeah changing the top panel to change the layout should be pretty straight forward there’s bound a thread with out here that explains it.

lol picky people in here i play on vs city cabs and megalo’s and they all have that same layout so thats what i would prefer as its much easier on the hands …
As for a thread to change the actual top ive yet to find one :sad: HELP ME PEOPLE
Phix

I would assume that changing the top would be like adding your own artwork to your stick. Print the artwork on good paper, then put lexan on top (sorry, I don’t know how thick). When it comes down to cutting the materials to fit the stick, use an HRAP2/3 template instead of an HRAP1. From what I’ve seen so far from pictures of the innards of an HRAP1, I don’t see anything that would prevent you from doing this.

So lexan is the answer it seems im gonna have to look into that then finally i might be comfortable thanks Tingboy

The HRAP1 is very specifically the Hori’s NeoGeo stick layout, doubled up.

But yes, it does more resemble the 2p side of japanese cabs.

Phix, did you get my PM?

http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image015qe8.jpg

Regarding the mounting plate of the HRAP1vB, what screw size fits into the holes in each corner of the plate? I already know the two holes in the middle is for the JFL stick.

Hey, so since the the HRAP3-SA is coming out this month I call upon any one who gets the controller to post a pic of the guts and mounting area of the HRAP3-SA or tell us what the mounting area of the controller is like.

Modded my HRAP3 today… I’m pretty pleased with the stick (Note: I’m primarily a Tekken player)…

http://images.marketworks.com/hi/71/71296/ps3_hori_arcade_fight_stick.jpg

what stick is this? why is it cheap? no good?

very nice!:tup: im guessing the buttons are seimitsu’s?

I’m guessing modding a HRAP3 with Sanwa buttons is dead easy? As in just plugging out the quick disconnects, taking the button out and putting the new buttons in and replugging the quick disconnects?

I didn’t wanna get a SA since it looks like it’s just a HRAP3 with sanwa buttons - I already have a bunch of sanwa buttons from a while back, and 50$ more just for that is a bit expensive :frowning:

Same thing with the restrictor plate - since it’s a JLF stick I should easily be able to switch to an octogonal or circle plate?