I don’t think I would have cut the plastic. Doesn’t that affect the weight of the stick?
no, weight is the same
I thought the shaft in the T5 was even longer, how would that fix the problem?
Two quick questions
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I have a HRAPv1 and I have a color scheme I’m going with, but the green turbo buttons kinda don’t look right with it. Is there an easy way to remove them with out a possiblility of messing up the pcb?
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How do I remove the 5-pin connector to the stock stick? Do I just forcfully pull it off or is ther another method. And, if/when I do, can I just stick it back on the the new stick (which would already have the spot for the connector)
All you have to do is unscrew the panel that the turbo buttons are in, you should see them when you lift up the main panel. There are these little clamps on the sides of the turbo panel, just lift it up and you can pull off the panel. Take switches out then screw panel back on.
If it’s got some glue on it just peal it off. Once the glue is off just pull on it, gotta use a little force, should just come off fine.
Anyone know if the Super Joy Box 3 Pro works well with HRAP1?
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-6m-49-en-15-pc%2Busb-70-qc2.html
It seems to be the same thing as the sold out S-Joy Converter which supposedly worked very well with HRAP. http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-6m-49-en-15-pc+usb-70-gt.html
I’ve got the 3 in 1 pc joybox by mayflash that converts psx,dc and saturn and my hrap works perfect on it
Thanks for that. Any responses to the second question?
if there’s glue peel it off and pull it out. then just plug it back in when you’re done. it’s very easy.
I have a question: on a scale of 1-10, 1 being a cheap Shadowblade Gamestop arcade stick and 10 being a Japanese arcade cabinet stick, how does a stock unmodded HRAP v2 rate?
Because all of this modding, I would do it in a snap. YOU GUYS ARE MAKING ME FEEL INFERIOR! However, I have no soldering skills which I’m going to learn on some broken VCR PCBs for fun. And, I just got it in the mail today. If I break it, I would kill myself by sticking my soldering iron up my ass.
Also, I read on the first page - HRAP v2 joystick can’t be modded? Is that going to be a problem for me in the future when the stick starts to feel loose?
I probably will end up modding the buttons once I gain enough soldering skills.
well you should get the hori tekken 5 at gamestop for only $30
and modd it, for practice, and then mod your hrap
about to finish modding my sec Hori t5
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030342.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030344.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030343.jpg
The mounting plate is different from the original HRAP so putting a Seimitsu would be a problem, but you’d be able to replace the stick with another Sanwa JLF no problem.
has somebody successfully put a seimitsu stick in the hrap 1 ver. 2?
^ Was wondering that also.
Vampiro, did you paint the surface, contact paper it, or what?
paint it
i have 2 sanwas joysticks instaled 1 in my hrap and other in my custom stick but the problem is that both of them balltops are unscrew’ing from joystick after few minutes of playing any tips how to fix that ?
i love the metalic effect here V4MPIRO
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030344.jpg
have u used the sand paper and later painted it ??
Here’s my effort,
Seimisu LS-40 stick, and snap in buttons:
http://img159.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0412wm6.jpg
http://img417.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0411rs9.jpg
http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0415kx7.jpg