1 - ground
2 - left
3 - right
4 - down
5 - up
:karate:
I have a couple of questions about the HRAP
- For those who own the HRAP2 (arcade cabinet button layout), do you find that the main buttons are too close to the joystick? Looking at the japanese console button layout, the main buttons are further away. The buttons in question that I’m referring to are [] /\ O X R1 R2.
This is the main thing that concerns me and would make me want to buy a HRAP1 over a HRAP2. However, I would like to hear some of your opinions about this.
- I’m wanting to replace the hori buttons on the cheap, and want to know if the GREEN sanwa buttons are the same shade of green as the standard hori buttons of the HRAP1. Similarly, are the red sanwa buttons the same red used on the HRAP2s?
If so, then that’s great news as I’d only have to buy six sanwa buttons and just leave the L1 and L2 buttons in there. I’d like confirmation though.
Thanks.
the color is vermillion I know The Real NeoGeo sales em. the reg red is darker.
I’ve been looking through this thread (and others) and I haven’t seen the answer to a question I have concerning the US T5 Hori stick: I’d like to change the joystick’s square restrictor to an octagonal restrictor without having to get a totally new joystick part. I’ve seen the octagonal restrictors for the JLF-TP-8Y on sale by themselves. Not I’m wondering, would this restrictor work with the Hori stick that’s in the US T5 Hori stick?
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help me.
No it wont. It will only fit a sanwa JLF.
Damn, ok thanks.
Actually, according to people in another thread (DOA Mod for the Lazy), you can replace the restrictors in most any Hori with a JLF restrictor. I haven’t done this myself. I doubt that I’d find it worth it, but go there for more details.
~Paik
Converters:
Where exactly can I get a Wind Spirit or Magic Box? I need USB & Xbox connectivity.
this is the inside of my HRAP
can the LS-32 fit in there?
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030332.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030331.jpg
thanx.
Hi my HRAP1 ps/2 cord got cut. Does anyone know how to get a replacement?
In regards to both the Innovation Dreamcast converter and the Wind Spirit PC converter, I was wondering if anyone could confirm that these are both it. These websites are selling them and I wanted to make sure they would both work well with my Hori Real Arcade Pro stick.
Innovation: http://www.innovation1.com/ under the Sega and Dreamcast tabs, labeled as Dream Connection II
Wind Spirit: http://www.superufo.com/product_html...nverter_V.html
I know you managed to get around this, but I’d just like to mention an alternate solution. For those with socket wrenches, just fit the hex end of the 7mm socket to the nut, then insert a small pair of scissors into the (usually) square adaptor end. Open the scissors so that they’re flush with opposite corners of the socket’s interior and then you’ll have enough leverage to rotate the nut off. It’s ghetto, but it gets the job done :wgrin: I mention this since pliers can be impossible to fit down to the middle two nuts on the HRAP unless they have a long head.
Depending on the manufacturer they’re variously called nutdrivers, nut screwdrivers or nut spinners. A 7mm one tends to go for 7-10.
I’d also like to add a couple of adaptors that I’ve found to be lag-free: MagicJoy for USB; Total Control Plus for Dreamcast. The latter has an unexplained switch on the side that sets the button config for different devices. Set it to the far right position for joystick mode.
So, can I get some help with my question? 
Both these converters are listed as lag-free on the very first post of this thread.
~Paik
bump
Aright, so I ordered a LS-32 from AkihabaraShop and have a HRAP, and ended up getting the one without the Modulex piece (white piece where wires go it. Thanks Alax.Cool btw) and I don’t have alot of soldering experince and don’t feel comfortable cutting all the wires off and soldering them to the directions for the stick or w/e. So, I think i’ll either have someone who has expierence do it or buy one with the Modulex piece. Instead i’m just going to try and put the stick that I ordered in (battop) on the Sawna balltop. I haven’t seen any guides for it so does it come with directions, or is it pretty self explanitory.
Also, if I do end up getting one of the LS-32 models with the modulex piece do I just like pull it off of the stick I currently have and it’ll go right in on the Ls-32, or is it more difficult than that?
Depends on which HRAP you’ve got, the earlier production runs had a cross shaped mounting bracket already suitable for an LS-32-01 while the current ones do not. If you do not have the cross shaped bracket you might as well not bother and the only way to be sure is to open up your HRAP. Aside from the 5-pin connector the LS-32-01 also has a different S-shaped mounting plate which would give a better surface shaft length, with the flat plate of an LS-32 the shaft would feel very short.
Think i’ve posted some of these pics before, but heres everything in 1 place
My HRAP1V2 Pics:
HRAP1V2 Box: www.tolkano.net/hrap/100_4723.jpg
HRAP1V2 Packaging: www.tolkano.net/hrap/100_4724.jpg
HRAP1V2 Stock Inside: www.tolkano.net/hrap/100_4731.jpg
HRAP1V2 Stock Outside 1: www.tolkano.net/hrap/100_4732.jpg
HRAP1V2 Stock Outside 2: www.tolkano.net/hrap/100_4737.jpg
HRAP1V2 Modded Inside: www.tolkano.net/hrap/new.inside.jpg (plastic was cut out with a rotary tool for easy modding/changing of parts)
HRAP1V2 Modded Outside 1: www.tolkano.net/hrap/latest.jpg
HRAP1V2 Modded Outside 2: www.tolkano.net/hrap/modded.hrap.side.jpg
Help With T5 Sanwa Mod
I have a T5 stick that I tried to get modified with a sanwa, after putting the sanwa in the T5 it didn’t feel right. The sanwa stick seemed longer and didn’t feel like the sanwa in the HRAP2 or the CFJ stick. Later the sanwa from the CFJ stick was put into my T5 stick and it felt like a HRAP. What needs to be done with a sanwa in a T5 stick to make it feel like a HRAP?
switch d shaft, use the one with the t5.