I plan to make my Hayabusa silent but searching through this thread I see most if not all use a reed(lever) micro-switch instead of a snap one, does that actually feel better on this stick?
I was planning to get D2RV-G switches and use my 1mm actuator and 2lb JLF spring, and dremel the housing of the Hayabusa to fit it
Ordered a Hayabusa last night from FA for my second build.
I will post my thoughts on it after it shows up. 
Get the non-levered versions and desolder the wires from the stock switches and solder them on to the new ones. Easy as cake.
Hey folks - long time no post. Glad to see everyone is doing well. I’m having a weird issue with my HHS that I haven’t been able to solve. When pulling the lever (usually down) it feels like its almost…catching somewhere. There’s just this weird hint of slow down that’s hard to articulate. If I spin the lever a bit, it stops and may do it going a different direction. I’ve disassembled the HHS and when looking under the (stock black) pivot there’s a stain in the bowl that doesn’t come out with alcohol or scratch away with toothpicks. I assumed it was dried lube but its not coming out. I cleaned off all the components and re lubricated them. Does anyone know what this could potentially be? Also, how many of you lubricate the silver ring that the plastic piece that holds the spring makes contact with? I think I may try taking off the kowal actuator to see if its happening before hitting the switch, which I think it is because I removed the switches when it was dissasembled and it still seemed to happen. Its inconsistent but noticeable. I wish someone (moon looking at you!) would finish that gate mod so that hitting the gate didn’t feel so harsh! I’m about to take it apart again and take a picture of the bowl. I swirled the components around the LED wire and wiped them that way but I may just unscrew the wire from the terminal block and heavily clean everything individually.
People with the kowal actuator installed on the Hayabusa made the same reports
Interesting. I feel like this just recently started happening. I’ll change the actuator and see what happens. Can you explain how the Kowal would cause this?
EDIT: Just changed the actuator. Its not it. I’ll post a picture of the bowl in a second.
EDIT 2: Here is the picture. I can’t scratch that stain away or use alcohol to remove it.
Also,this is the lubricant I have. I can’t remember who told me to get it a while ago but that’s what it is. It’s either thick or extra thick version but it really doesn’t feel very thick, especially compared to what shin etsu looks like in videos I’ve seen. Could that be the issue?
If it’s doing it without the kowal, that must not be the problem, but it’s worth pointing out again (for anyone else reading) that the top edge of the larger cylinder needs to be filed down to keep the kowal from snagging on the hayabusa gate.
Oddly enough I’ve never had that issue. I changed the stock HHS pivot with a white JLF one that I had and I feel like the white one is almost a hair smaller. It feels like there’s just too much deadzone movement in there. Its hard to explain.
Camacho - do you lube that silver ring in there? Also, what lube are you using? I wonder if my stuff is just too thin.
I’m cleaning off everything really well now. I’m going to just lube one part at a time, try it, and go from there.
All I lubed on mine was the pivot and pivot housing. I use shin etsu.
Is the snag feel exactly the same when you use the stock actuator? Can you get it to snag with the lever taken out of the case? I’m wondering if you’re hitting a wire or something else in the controller.
The snag feeling is something with the deadspace. Yes it feels very similar with the stock actuator. If I barely move the stick is has a little resistance and makes this weird sound. That’s basically what it is and its impairing my gameplay.
Why lube the housing and the pivot. Doesn’t the lube on the pivot rub off on the housing? Where did you get shin etsu? There are a few variations right? I hate to get it from japan but i’ll do it if its the only place.
I think I fixed it. I cleaned everything, relubed it with a little less and didn’t lube the black part that touches the silver ring under the switches. I think the lube in that area must have just caused it to move around too much in the deadspace. I’ll test it for a while and go from there.
I do it for the sake of thoroughness, just more lube on there. I bought mine from focus attack.
The smoothness of the stick is a day to day thing for me. I figure it’s all in my head. I’ve tried from a little lube to a lot of lube. I think I prefer the former, where I apply dots on the pivot and spread it thinly around Either way, it can feel different in the following weeks after reapplying. Past two days moving the stick feels great but a day or two before that I was thinking about opening it up again.
As far as snagging goes, as I said earlier in the thread, when the stick is in neutral there is a small bit of space before it begins moving the pivot. Really small but noticeable to me when I was playing. I originally suggested wrapping sewing thread around the shaft to make it snug but I have an even better and more ghetto fix that I’ve done. I tore off a piece of paper from a fortune, yes from a fortune cookie, and slide it on simultaneously with the pivot. Now the pivot fits as snug as you could possibly want it and moves with the stick. No little snapping noise.
Last time I lubed up was in early December with molykote if that matters. I also don’t lube the metal washer.
edit #2
I just grabbed some “liquid wrench silicone spray”
Will this be okay until my Shin-Etsu gets here?
If someone knows, please let me know.
Thanks in advance for any help Tech Talk.
edit
@mIRC I tried the paper idea and it really made a difference in how solid the Hayabusa feels. The shaft cover freely spinning is the only thing I wasn’t liking.
Thanks for the info.
@PresidentCamacho I too order from FA and my stick is in dire need of lube. There is some on it, but very very little.
Need some lube STAT!!!
Thinking out loud* Wonder if there is somewhere in Dallas I can find some. Looking now.
I just finished my second build tonight and Im really digging the feel of the Hayabusa so far.
@mIRC I was just thinking the same thing. Piece of paper or string. 
I will keep updating my experience with the stick but so far I like it MUCH more than my JLF.
I like the clickiness and the how fast I can execute moves without needing to get near the gate.
I ordered an oversized actuator and a 2lbs spring, but Im going to play with it for a week before I think about changing anything.
Just have them in case I feel different.
Yes, I have read the entire thread and know that some have bad experiences with changing the actuator and spring.
I got no idea if this stuff that great or not for joysticks.
I don’t remember if its this stuff or another bolt lossener than can dissolve Styrofoam.
You should be fine if you use tiny amounts.
I’ve got a few questions.
Does anyone know why it feels so ‘hard’ when you hit the gate on HHS vs the JLF? The kowal actuator seems to help some but it just feels much more ‘rough’.
Also - I screwed up and may need to try and return this but I went to the honda dealership and got some ShinEtsu. Its not the G40M, its G-3W-O-M. How different are the two? Do I need to return this and order the G40?
It mounted more firmly due to being screwed in, whereas the jlf gate snaps on. Flip both over and look at the movement, you’ll see the difference.
Yea, I looked at that and I game to a similar conclusion. What I should have asked was if there’s anything you can do about it. Does it annoy you at all?
Also - I found this thread Shin-Etsu G-40M Liquid Stuff in regards to my question about the G30M vs G40M. Some say its just temp rating, which doesn’t matter, others say the G40 will last longer, and someone said that the G30M is best for semetsu. That thread is 4 years old. Does anyone have any new information or the ability to clarify it? Assuming all are true, how much longer does the G40 last over the G30? Is the G30 something I’m going to have to replace every month? I read that the G40 doesn’t work as well on semetsu. My main stick is the HHS. How does the G30 work for this? It seems okay after being put on but I want to make sure its not just going to dry out. Would I have a better result with the G40? I just finished putting the G30 on but haven’t played around much on the stick other than just flinging it around a few times.
Edit: So I have two sticks side by side. TE with stock JLF and my panzer with the 38mm hoku and kowal actuator. The issue that I feel like I’ve been having with my HHS is I keep feeling like its almost getting ‘caught’ somewhere. Just a tiny catch - inconsistent and barely noticeable, though enough to drive me nutts. When I wiggle my HHS around in the deadspace it seems to be more ‘loud’ and ‘tangible’ than the deadspace with the JLF. I feel like the is getting caught a tiny bit in the deadspace before it actuates the switch. I can feel and hear that deadspace catch. For whatever reason it mostly happens when moving the stick downward. I tried taking everything apart, cleaning and lubing but it still seems to happen a bit. I don’t remember this happening in the past so its hard to know if its new or has always been the case and I just didn’t notice it. Does anyone else have this problem or know what it is? If I made large movements with my stick it wouldn’t bother me but I make small subtle motions so its aggravating the hell out of me. I originally thought the shin etsu would fix it, but either a) the shin etsu 30M isn’t the right lube for this and 40m may fix it or b) 30m and 40m won’t make a damn bit of difference with this problem.
No it doesn’t bother me. I actually like the feel of the gate being more stable.
And you asked about that snag before, have you filed down the actuator edges like I suggested?