The gate is centered. Logically, I can only conclude that the actuator/gate combination working well with the jlf but not the H means that the H must have a longer engage. Maybe the switches themselves require more depression before engagement, if only slightly? Turning levers upside down and watching the engagement, the H clicks right before hitting a diagonal corner using a stock jlf octagon insert (again, the insert I mentioned initially was a short throw one, smaller ID ).
Man, I just don’t know. I don’t think you’re wrong but what I’ve seen is that they’re the same as far as that is concerned. Unless for some reason, there is enough variation in Hayabusa sticks when it comes to specs that some might be slightly off enough during production.
I’ll take some measurements later this week.
Please do! All this speculation, controversy and drama is annoying. I plan on getting this stick but this thread is freaking me out, because people are saying the throw/engage is longer/further and the whole purpose I am looking for a replacement is because I want a short throw and a medium to heavy engage.
BTW, What tools I need and how do I measure these on sticks like the dude from slagcoin? I am also surprised that the dude from slagcoin didn’t add and or update his stick chart with the hayabusa.
I agree, since you have to Break them in.
This is off topic but their logic may have something to do with the angle that is possible on the pin of the switch. If Sanwa allows the switch pin to be bent to the sides slightly when being depressed I can see that causing additional wear on that component and if the smaller gap between plunger and rim prevents this you would be reducing wear on the switch itself.
Dude why are you getting freaked out? There isn’t even any drama about it. Hayabusa is basically a JLF. The throw and engage should be close enough. The throw might be a tad longer because the gate is lower and still the same width as a JLF gate, I would have to double check but honestly I’m tired of measuring gates lol. Regardless, the throw wouldn’t be significant enough to be like OMG WTF I CAN’T PLAY!!
From what you wrote it seems like a JLW would be a good fit for you. Most of the other sticks are opposite of what you want.
Also, slagcoin is old and seriously out of date.
Not to get off topic but do they still even make the balltop version of the JLW? All I see is the bat top versions.
The “dude” from Slag Coin has not updated in a long time and is most likely isn’t going to make any updates any time soon.
Nor is he or she required to update the website site. Do not act so entitled.
Yes they still do. Try Paradise Arcade Shop, I think Focus Attack only has the “Bat top version”
I concur.
Further more, although Slag coin been out of date since 2009, the basics the site underlines have not changed. And regardless of Console generation the fundamentals of building a joystick case has not change, nether did the rules of physics.
This is what I’m thinking, based on little stuff like me and Camacho-in-Chief experiencing some issues with Kowal’s actuator while somebody else didn’t. I think our Hayabusas are related.
@InQx Anyways, I’m still going through my restless stick-swapping phase so my opinions aren’t very concrete at this point, but I agree with Moonchilde overall. I’ve been playing on JLFs for about a year, and the throw and engage didn’t feel tremendously different out of the box on a Hayabusa. I can’t comment firsthand on JLW because mine is due to arrive tomorrow, but it does sound like that might be more up your alley. But really, buying and trying is always better than psyching yourself out. It’s not hard to resell a very lightly used joystick if you don’t like it.
Thanks, I’ll check out the JLW. I might end up having to heavily mod my hayabusa and or selling it, because it’s currently in transit. which is why I am worried.
when I said drama I was refering to a dispute and a lot of disagreeing/different opinions when I was reading through the thread for insight. (hori’s advertisments are seriously misleading)
will do, will do, thanks. it’s a shame though, I ended up spending a lot more than I would ever had thought when getting in to this.
WHat? I am confused… How did I come across as entitled, just because I am surprised that one of the most viewed arcades sites hasn’t gotten updated when new hardware was entered the market? Dude, you’re just asking for drama. FYI I am new to all of these arcade shenanigans, so give me a break pls. http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197993106647/
Ha, yeah. Hobbies are great like that. It could be a lot worse though, I’ve been into stuff that cost me way more than arcade parts.
It’s a good lever regardless, give it a fair shot before changing it around it selling it.
Alright, I broke out the calipers. Bear in mind that I’m holding these while measuring, but I’m used to machining parts to a ±0.001" tolerance, and measured multiple times to ensure repeatability. Here are my results:
JLF switch to switch (stock pcb assembly): .640"
JLF square gate width at widest point of flare (across cardinal directions, not across the diagonals): .704", narrow point: .650"
Stock JLF Omron compression distance before engage: .693"
Hayabusa switch to switch: .658"
Hayabusa square gate at widest point of flare (across cardinals, not diagonals): .740", narrow point .674"
Stock Hayabusa Matsushida compression before engage: .693"
I also easily observed more neutral zone wobble in the H while comparing the two using Kowal actuators in both (with them upside down, naturally), which is supported by the measurements.
Edit: switch to switch measurements may be conservative, as I tried to avoid depressing switches while taking them. I feel safe in saying that there’s a .015"-.020" difference between the JLF and H in this regard.
This was your own post
If that is not the rant of a spoiled brat, I don’t know what is. The only Drama here is what you are creating.
All the Hayabusa is if Sanwa actually engineered the Sanwa JLF correctly instead of cutting corners, better made gate, actuator and body. The Shaft is (for all practical purposes) identical.
Many if not all the parts of the Hayabusa are identical to the JLF, as most of the after market mods parts for the JLF fits the Hayabusa.
You’re delusional and prolly trying to bait me… Go start another thread someone else and we can argue there.
You aren’t properly welcomed to the Tech Talk forums without Darksakul being an asshole to you. Welcome.
I don’t think Dark was ever an asshole to me when I joined, lol.
JLF switch to switch (stock pcb assembly): 16.256 mm
JLF square gate width at widest point of flare (across cardinal directiona, not across the diagonals): 17.881 mm, narrow point: 16.51 mm
Stock JLF Omron compression distance before engage: 17.602 mm
Hayabusa switch to switch: 16.713 mm
Hayabusa square gate at widest point of flare (across cardinals, not diagonals): 18.796 mm, narrow point 17.119 mm
Stock Hayabusa Matsushida compression before engage: 17.602 mm
For those who want mm ^
Not sure how you were measuring this but shouldn’t the compression before engage be much smaller? Are you measuring the distance from the center of the diameter of the shaft to the engage point on the switch or is it from the opposing side of the gate to it?
Sorry, I should have explained that. I measured the compression before engage by removing a micro switch and squeezing it with my calipers, meaning the switch itself is all that I’m referencing from.