Hori Hayabusa unboxing + mods!

When I had some control issues with both the LS-32 and JLF, I did some seriously high tension mods on both joysticks. (This was with doubling springs… around 4-5 years ago… well before customized, higher-tension springs hit market and the only way you could do spring mods was shopping at Lowes, Home Depot, or doubling up on JLF and LS-32 springs…) In the end, I dropped the JLF (too many issues including recentering which was the killer for me!) and opted to keep the LS-32 closer to stock tension with a minor tweak. Likewise with the Hayabusa.

I just found that with much higher-tension I felt like I was weight-lifting instead of actually getting the joystick to hit the corners better. Higher-tension ratcheting will NOT fix recentering issues if the joystick has them; never worked on the JLF for me! Practice, practice fixes most of the issues people have with joysticks unless the joysticks-in-question have inborne design issues and bad microswitches. That’s why I find the aftermarket for JLF mod parts to be amusing – for me it confirms that the JLF is far from perfect and has significant flaws. Some people love that… I didn’t in particular. I’ve never had as many issues with the LS-32 as I did the JLF, though. Very solid joystick for the most part… It does have its ‘personality quirks,’ though, and some people never get over those. For the most part, LS-32 users deal with and overcome those issues and stay with the design.

I prefer the longer throw’s on the LS-32 and Hayabusa as opposed to the other LS-joysticks; I hit the microswitches more consistently and have less of an issue with “overcontrol”. It helps to have a lighter touch on the other LS-joysticks. It’s very hard to overcontrol on the LS-32 or the Hayabusa.

Whether the JLF has less throw on it than the Hayabusa I don’t know; I’ll repeat myself and say that in all sincerity I’ll take other people’s word for it that the H-stick has longer thrown than the JLF – it’s been too long since I used a JLF for much more than a paperweight. I’m comfortable with the Hayabusa as-is and haven’t had an issue switching back-and-forth with the LS-32 despite the slight difference in throw. I still think the Hayabusa is engineered a bit better and hits the microswitches more consistently. The H-stick is the joystick to play classic CPS-1/-2 Street Fighter on! ( => at least for me…!)
I’d say that there’s no point in throwing away LS-32’s if you prefer the Hayabusa. They’re mostly comparable IMHO. The stock condition H-stick otherwise feels like a refined LS-32. Like I’ve said for over a month now, my inclination is to buy the H-stick from here on out as the main replacement lever for future joysticks and possible re-equips on favorite joysticks like the VLX, a classic HRAP or two, and maybe at least one Mad Catz Round 1/2 TE.
I’m more likely to sell JLF’s in new-buy joystick cases and sell off an LS-40 or two and my LS-58 than part with any of my LS-32’s. The Hayabusa is my favorite now but I won’t getting ridding of favored, older “children”, either! LOL

I don’t think we’re going to see a price-cut on the Hayabusa which is fine by me. $5 more than the JLF or LS-32 won’t kill me. $30 is fair for what the H-stick is. (Pray that Hori doesn’t go cheap and try to make future Hayabusa runs with lower-quality parts!) The news that PAS may be carrying it in the future is very, very good. The part’s main problem is distribution and lack of alternate, non-Hori US/JP retail sites to buy it from.

And yeah, diagrams aside, a lot of the Hori description about the Hayabusa pivot housing sounds like Sega’s “blast processing” blurbs on the old Sega Genesis ads…
I, for one, don’t have to completely understand why the Hayabusa handles better for me. It’s enough for me that it’s more comfortable and consistent with control response. That said, I agree that the performance comes from a combination of better build materials AND microswitch staggering/arrangement. I was surprised that I got better performance from non-gated tab switches!
I wouldn’t expect to convert people from the JLF who just don’t like the Seimitsu joysticks (if they’ve ever seriously tried playing with them for more than 3 minutes)… it’s still all personal preference. SlagCoin diagrams and charts all aside, people STILL have to test out arcade parts to see what’s comfortable for their use! I’m not a fan of iL/Happ joysticks or the JLF (most overrated joystick on-market IMHO) but I’m not about to call other people idiots for enjoying parts that feel more comfortable in their personal use – THAT’S dumb!

I have to repeat my original response from over a month ago–
I wasn’t initially sold on the Hayabusa until I played with it over an extended period of time. When I noticed I wasn’t dropping control inputs as much after a half-hour, 45 minutes as I would be on an LS-32 WHILE PLAYING classic SF2, that’s when I was really impressed by the Hayabusa because otherwise it really felt like an LS-32 clone that happened to be made with JLF clone parts!

Also for going way off topic in threads and crying about supposed abuse. Please leave that shit out of my thread, thank you. I want to talk about Hayabusa, the technical aspects, and not the ramblings of madmen.

After playing with the H-stick for awhile it made me wonder why I couldn’t stand the long throw of a JLF. The LS-32 is a bit shorter but I liked that, but in this case the H-Stick has a slightly longer throw. I feel like I was either hating the engage or the spring tension. Well actually it probably is both coupled with my LS-56 bias (which has now been shattered). I really want to mess around with the adjustable actuators with some silent omrons now.

Wow that was a mountain of text. @PresidentCamacho‌ when I put a Kowal in mine it was grinding when pushing right. I took it out right away though. I might try a paradise actuator instead. Love the Hayabusa but can’t get it to feel just right just yet.

Maybe you have the same problems I was having. On retrospect it was never the pivot action or the engage of JLF that I hated, it was the lack of spring tension and the throw. But I hate the throw on any stick, so it boils down to spring tension. Seimitsu sticks have higher spring tension for sure, I’m not so sure about engages and throws anymore. I still have to do some more measuring, but Hayabusa is basically a JLF that I had some spare springs to put on. I actually don’t like stock Hayabusa, but a 2 lb spring or a LS-55 spring (also 2 lb) changed how I felt and some levers and a throw went the extra mile. I’ve stated this before, but on Seimitsu sticks, I only have to mod the throw, but on JLF and Hayabusa I have to mod the throw, switches, and spring. :frowning:

I will die a little inside if I find the differences in engage and throw between all the sticks are sub-mm :frowning: lol!!!

Yea the more i think about it a few mm doesn’t really kill me that much. After playing with short and no throw so much I’ve just kept the quick movements and it transitioned well with the lever mod. If anything the one thing I like the most about the H-Stick is how it recenters so well. The JLF was decent but I had went back and forth with spring tension and since the lever mod gave me the problems i previously had with the H-Stick i eventually just bought an LS-56 from W00p around a year ago. But I hated the deadzone of the stick since it wiggled a ton around neutral. While I love the gate and spring mods that little wiggle room gave the H-Stick some points up over the LS-56. And now that I find myself playing at local arcades more, the throw isn’t killing me as much as it used to… well unless its an STG. I use the no throw and a 3lb on my LS-56 for those. So now I patiently wait for your kickstarter for the gate, it’ll be a worthwhile wait :wink:

:smiley:

If the Hayabusa gate project goes well, I want to do another gate project. I don’t think it would get as many backers though.

Guys, don’t use the Flag for Spam for this. That’s what the WTF button is for.

Flag for spam is for bots only.

I’m wondering what sort of height tolerance is kept on the Kowals, seems like lots of people have that problem.

@PresidentCamacho‌ I’ll try getting a couplr different actuators and see what works best.

Yeah, whenever I get around to ordering from PAS, I’m going to get a few of their derlin 1mm actuators.

Letter from Hori:

If you guys want actuators, let’s just do them…

I’ll order some this weekend for sure!

Sanwa may have just outdone the Hayabusa… New Silent JLF (2014)

@Armi0024, I’ll order some adjustable actuators, as soon a the D2RV-GL comes in. :wink:

I feel like that statement really doesn’t belong here. This new joystick is not available to test against the Hayabusa and therefore does not belong in this thread. (Yet)

How would the silent jlf outdo the haybusa? My understanding is that it’s a stick between Sanwas and Seimitsus offerings.

Just ordered one =) (I might need an intervention).

Well that and not everyone likes a silent joystick. It being silent doesn’t make it better than the Busa

I was just responding to:

Besides I thought we wait and test things out before deciding what’s better in TT :stuck_out_tongue: