just ordered some malokyte. vaseline will work for 3 days…
on a seperate note.
@moonchilde . my modded hayabusa doesn’t give me experct execution but it is very comfortable and i just order a few more for when this one breaks. will be sticking with it for the foreseeable future. it seems to be a colboration of some of my favorite sticks (minus spark ce jlf)… over feel of jlf \ almost engage and precision of ls-56 \ and smoothness of hayabusa.
I am not willing to admit that any stick will increase your performance immsensly (not that anyone here said that), but I will admit you are right, and it’s stupid to play on something that isn’t comfortable to you.
@Moonchilde - I just ordered a Hayabusa. I am pretty sure I can do this but I’d like somebody to verify that all of this can be done right now. I want to put a PAS JLF Aluminum bat top on the Hayabusa, a 3lbs spring and a circle gate. I am pretty sure I can do the bat top and spring but I was not 100% sure about the circle gate.
@Amerika - The spring and actuator is as straight forward as you would expect it to be on a JLF. The only way to currently use a circle gate is like this…
Ok, so that looks like he used a 1/8 drill for the screw and use a 1/4 drill to create a recess for the screw heads to sit in so he didn’t need to find longer screws. Sounds easy enough and I happen to have a JLF gate sitting around that I don’t need.
Never use Vaseline or any brand of petroleum jelly on a arcade stick. Petroleum in any form (especially gasoline) are solvents and can ruin the plastic of your arcade stick in time. Its murder on ABS, Acrylic and Lexan. Delrin is resistant to petroleum (but corrodes by hot water and chlorine).
Shin etsu is very hard to find locally in North America, most common places for Shin etsu are Honda dealerships and they refuse to sell the stuff directly to the public. So unless you got a good buddy who works at a Honda dealership, forget about it.
/quote]
Must have changed their policy at Honda then!
I bought my joystick Shin Etsu grease from a Honda dealership over 4 years ago.
It’s NOT exactly like the formulation PAS sells but it’s close. They basically use the grease for door hinges and such. Cars today have almost equal percentages plastic/metal as joysticks at any rate…
Expensive stuff but at the rate I’ve been using it it’ll probably last at least 20 years!
I don’t know what the big deal is about this, honestly. There’s plenty of stuff that they sell at other stores that’s as toxic or worse than what an auto dealer or auto parts store will sell you. Half the stuff sold in art supply stores is pretty bad…
The stock JLF actuator? The 'Busa actuator is .5mm bigger than the stock JLF unit so I would understand if that’s what you put on it. I never really saw much need to change the actuator out. I tried an actuator .5mm bigger than the 'Busa actuator (1mm oversized JLF) for the sake of science and I thought that it felt horrible. Even with the stiffer 2lb spring I would get the occasional rebound input when releasing the joystick.
LoL. I actually liked 1mm oversized on JLF with OE Omrons and .5mm oversized with Cherry reds. Any .5mm oversized actuator should feel just like the Hayabusa actuator though I firmly believe that the Hayabusa’s quality is head and shoulders above most.
@chaoslimits this really has to be execution error because physics: a larger actuator would hit diagonals easier and earlier than a smaller one. There is no way around that.
That makes complete sense, but it doesn’t play out when I use it. I seem to get lots of 26s instead 236 on the stock Hayabusa even when I try to ride the gate. Maybe it’s execution…
It’s weird that more than one person has had complaints about diagonals when nothing that I can think of should make diagonals worse on a Hayabusa than your standard JLF. If you’re used to playing on a circle or octogate you might just need to adjust. Otherwise, idk what to tell you tbh. If you get desperate, the lever mod should make diagonals even better than they are. I’m no god when it comes to execution but I still don’t have any gripes about the slanties on the 'Busa with no gate, actuator, or switch mods. LoL
I like hitting the diagonals on the Hayabusa fine! Way better than the JLF and smoother than the LS-32/LS-40. Definitely noticeable to me! This alone is worth the upgrade and sticking with the Hayabusa from here on out for me…
And I didn’t go about swapping out parts or changing the microswitches, either.
I came from 4+ years of using the LS-joysticks to this and the improvements here and there were noticeable to me.
I find a lot of the Hayabusa critiques unusual… I haven’t experienced the troubles other people have evidently.
It has slightly more throw than the LS-32 but I found it easy to adjust to that. The way the Hayabusa snaps back and recenters is definitely NOT JLF-like… it’s more like the LS-joysticks in that sense. Staying on track with the throw and rolling, I found it to behave very much like a better-built LS-32. Good all-around performance without the occasional hiccups I’ve felt with the LS-32 and LS-40. (I’ve definitely had my shares of issues with the LS-joysticks – more so with the LS-40 and LS-58 than the LS-32.) The switches were definitely not an issue and I half-expected it to be worse than the LS-joysticks without the use of levered micros. Imagine my surprise when the stick worked just fine for me and smoother in a number of ways!
I guess it’s where you’re coming from.
The JLF was the only one of four Japanese control levers where I couldn’t get adjusted to the square gate. The square gate works fine for me on the LS-joysticks and the Hayabusa. The octogate actually introduced some new issues on the JLF. I experimented with roundgates, too, and didn’t find those to really make much difference on the JLF in the end, either. The lack of adequate re-centering and more-than-occasional sense that I was fighting the control lever instead of the game was why I stopped using the JLF, period.
The JLF is NOT a good starter joystick… I think the LS-32 or Hayabusa are better starter sticks. I don’t even think the JLF is a particularly good competition-level joystick, either! Again, the LS-32, Hayabusa, and the LS-40 are superior to the JLF in most respects IMHO.
Yeah, superficially, the Hayabusa is built very much like a JLF but the base-tweaks made all the difference in making this a keep or sell proposition. I think the difference is mostly due to the choice of microswitch and the arrangement of said-micros in the base. I’m definitely hitting the microswitches just fine when executing special moves. When I DO miss, it’s me – definitely not the hardware this time.
The whole business of the triangular cross-section of the pivot point area sounds to me more like “blast processing” than a useful, innovative feature. Of course, if it REALLY does all that Hori says, I definitely owe them an apology and gratitude for fixing something that I didn’t think was the main issue with the other joysticks!
I think the odd diagonal feel that some people notice on the Hayabusa is due to the match up between the square gate and actuator. If you take a look at the actuator in the corner of the stick it’s pretty much a perfect fit for the corner of the square gate since the actuator is a little bigger than the JLF and the square gate doesn’t appear to be quite as rounded as the JLF.
Either going with an oversize actuator or swapping in a JLF gate using the drilling mod above would probably fix it for anyone that’s annoyed by it though.
Wouldn’t a JLF actuator actually effect engage and not throw @Moonchilde? It would make the neutral zone .5 mm larger.
@decoyb - As far as I can tell, the part of the actuator that contacts the gate is identical to the JLF. The shape of the gate, in this case, shouldn’t be a factor with the shorter engage distance of the Hayabusa. The gate doesn’t restrict the movement of the switches. Only the movement of the shaft itself.
Using a JLF actuator, on the hayabusa, definitely makes the engage farther, increasing the deadzone; It’s not a good solution since the stock Hayabusa overall is definitely a better stick than the JLF.
If you take the hayabusa, flip it upside down, move the lever around the gate and see when/where it disengages the inputs, you can see that the input range for 2,4,6,8 are very wide even when riding the gate (I don’t have a non-installed JLF for comparison right now, I’ll compare tonight). I would like to try a 1mm oversized, relative to JLF, actuator (screwed up my PAS order so it’ll have to wait till I need something else).
I don’t like hayabusa actuator on JLF either as it seems to extensively reduce the deadzone making neutral inputs more difficult.
Still prefer LS-40 and LS-32 over Hayabusa and JLF.
I fell victim to the Hayabusa hype and ordered one, despite being quite happy with the JLF + Kowal actuator + octagonal gate (also just put a 2lb spring in one, liking it so far). Hoping it lives up to the praise you guys are shoveling upon it, although it should be easy to sell if not.
Only way to know for sure is to try it. I have been a long time JLF user as well and decided to try the Fighting Edge stick. If I didn’t I wouldn’t have known that the Hayabusa is that good. I’m sure some people will still say the JLF is better. It is the most popular brand after all.
You have to try it to know for sure if the Hayabusa is for you or not. If not then you can stick with the JLF. I’m sure you can sell it off easily for those who wants to give the Hayabusa a try.