HORI Fighting EDGE

Fuck plinking and 1 frame links.

<morganfreeman>I agree with the first part.</morganfreeman>

Does anybody have an instruction manual for this stick? I still can’t figure out how my RT got set to back or how to default the stick to normal buttons. I guess if I plinked, it would be cool, but I don’t, so it’s annoying.

nvm

Go into configuration mode. Hold rt and cycle through the buttons it can map to with up and down. Exit configuration mode.

Anyone else try swapping the kuros with sanwa buttons and felt that the sanwa buttons were a bit too big for the holes? I got them in just fine, but I had to apply a decent amount of force. Much more than the kuros require.

Is this the norm when installing new buttons?
I only ask since I purchased some chibi buttons and don’t want to damage them.

There are little nubs of plastic under the rim that I usually shave off with a knife. Makes them much easier to put in and remove.

Any time you have a joystick that has a plexi on top of of the faceplate, you have to be aware that you will in all likelihood CRACK the plexiglass if you try to forcibly install OR remove the pushbuttons if they haven’t had the ‘installation’ nubs trimmed/shaved off first. This will happen whether the plexi is 1/16" thick or 1/32" thick.

The only production joystick I’m aware that doesn’t have the ‘button nub’ issue is the Mad Catz Tournament Edition 2 joystick. MC oversized the plexi holes a bit on the TE2 plexi overlay so that you wouldn’t have to trim the nubs with button swap-outs. Of course, they got called out on the carpet for that by members of SRK because now the buttons weren’t flush with the plexi! That just goes to show you can’t make 100% of the people happy 100% of the time!


The nubs on the pushbuttons are there to keep the pushbuttons from rotating freely from installations in arcade cabinets. They’re fine for installations in home arcade joysticks so long as you’re dealing with wooden or metal faceplates and have no intention of installing custom artwork and plexis to protect artwork or a faceplate’s metal finish.

Sanwa and Seimitsu didn’t design their arcade pushbuttons with home joystick set-ups, customized art, and plexis in mind. The installations nubs on production arcade pushbuttons are something you always have to keep in mind IF you plan on customizing joysticks with art or swapping out buttons into a joystick that has a faceplate plexi.

The problem with the nubs became a lot more obvious around 5 years ago when the home customization market for joysticks started exploding and the first widely available for plexi’s cropped up. A lot of the early buyers of Art Hong’s plexis ran up against the problem of ‘plexi cracking’ because they didn’t shave/file off the pushbutton nubs first.

Ask and ye shall receive. Now help a brotha out with some dualmods using other PCBs. I don’t need the button config stuff for dualmod, just Start + Select on the touch panel. Especially for X360FE + MC Cthulhu, and more than likely PS3FE + X360MC FightPad.

PS3 FE Top
PS3 FE Bottom

X360 FE Top
X360 FE Bottom

Hori FE PCBs Album

If you need other images, let me know.

Thanks brudah. I’ll try to get them labeled by next week.

Also Hori related. Is it possible to hook up the LED player lights function of the PS360+ to the PS3 V3 SA (stripped out PCB)? Secondly, same thing but with a X360 SoulCal5 stick? Basically “fully function” sans turbo. If you’re wondering, the V3 SA PCB I have went stupid (case is just fine though!), and I’m thinking of using the SC5 X360 pcb in my PS3 FE for dualmod. I’m sure you’ve seen the inside of the FE case, so you know that space is limited without hacking away in there. Not that I have a problem with doing so, but I’d like to keep as much intact as possible. Thanks!

Oh perfect, I have a Fighting Edge coming in today and I was planning on dual modding it, you labeling the PCB will save me some work. Thanks Gummo.

sniffle I get no credit… :frowning: lol

You know I was actually going to edit this post to say thanks for the pictures but I completely forgot.

wat wat wat.

So all the touch screen functions are intact and work with both versions? How did you do this? Is there a single PCB that can be purchased that would do this for me or would I have to find a modder experienced enough to do this?

He used a PS3 and 360 Fighting Edge PCB to do this, so you’ll need to have an extra $200 for a second fighting edge, or maybe you can find someone on the trading outpost who put a PS360 into their fighting edge and buy the PCB off them.

Edit:

Has anyone unscrewed the sides/handles of a fighting edge, do you think there would be enough room to mount a DPDT switch under there for a kind of stealth set up? I was thinking of maybe adding a rocker switch for when I add next-gen support to my fighting edge. I guess if anything a surface mount DPDT switch will definitely fit.

Is there anyone available that still has hayabusa sticks in stock or have the vanished from the face of the globe? Love the joystick and would really like to find a spare.

Focus Attack should have more in any day now.

I hope you are right but its been quite some time and I have seen none pop up.

Last week he said he should have a new shipment this week.