Yeah, but I get to play Panzer Dragoon Zwei and NiGHTS in scanlined RGB anamorphic widescreen on giant flat panels.
Also, PS2 doesn’t look like complete shit anymore. (There’s no hope for the gamecube on my current set up though, lol) The XRGB-3 was about $450, the Optoma $425 and I managed to snag the Gefen for $85. The Optoma’s not really necessary for an XRGB setup, Genesis games were designed with overscan in mind and have a border that shows up on flat panels, the Optoma allows you to zoom and crop and the noise reduction is nice too. Helps with jailbars (NES, Genesis. There is something of a fix for the Model 1 Sega, Model 2’s jailbar free – you need a A/V Famicom for your Nintendo though).
The Gefen helps calm the shaky vertical-sync of the XRGB to almost invisible levels (and upscales the image very nicely) IMO it’s a must have companion to the XRGB-3.
yea usb runs at 5v not sure if you have a screw terminal if so cut one end off run red to positive and black to ground and plug it into a phone ac adapter or something else that has usb
I… Dont have that. Double crap. I need a different AC adapter… I have this one piece around somewhere. Let me change the voltage and came with so many different heads.
Holy. Friggin’. Hell. I looked in this one box, first thing I find? Perfectly fitting 5v adapter. No more resets. Though something I was hoping would be solved with the power issue: is it normal to have these tiny dots show up whenever there’s black on the screen? I tried every resolution. Got zilch.
That set up mistah snart posted a few pages back (Sync Strike, GBS card, SLG3000/new toodles board) is the way to go if you want to use real consoles but want something cheap AND good AND easy to track down. (probably would of done that if it was available at the time) If you want to use an emulator box but want all your image processing to look the same (some emulators have great filters, others not so much – i.e you want hardware) and can’t stand that harsh fake ‘emulated’ look then 640x480 PC > Scanline device > Gefen Scaler Plus at 1080p (non plus is good too for PC/plus is better for 240p consoles but either way you need a set up that involves something like a good transcoder like the X-Select D4 and a line doubler/transcoder (XRGB does both or equivalent) for 240p signals first, sigh) – in other words; computer > scanline device > Gefen > to your full HD panel is breathtaking.
You can already get an XRGB-3 console set up that looks fantastic, but there’s a reason the thread at shmups is thousands of messages long and I’m using 3 scalers…) but this is even better in terms of quality, and it’s dead simple. It’s easily the best looking you can get… however
The new XRGB Mini Frame Meister coming out looks like it could be a one-stop console solution for very large percentage of retro-gamers. (Fudoh should have a review up before xmas, everyone’s excited over a shmups!
I’m way to into original hardware to do that. I also JUST bought it. Still waiting on a response to those damn dots. I can’t seem to fix it. It must be something specific. I’m running it at the highest resolution it allows but that doesn’t really seem to matter.
Are you changing modes on your PS2 to match the connection you want (RGB mode on PS2 menu w/ RGB SCART cable, YPbPr mode on PS2 menu w/ Component cable)?
-ud
Been hyped for that since the info first dropped. Looking forward to Fudoh’s review! I was hoping for a more reasonable price, but considering everything that you’re getting, it’s not too painful. Still, would have been nice to see it come in less than the XRGB3.
You might want to check in the thread on shmups.system11.org, they might have an answer with regards to whatever graphical corruption you are getting (are you getting it with the scaler just set to 640x480)
USB doesn’t have nearly the amount of amps that are suggested
Got the Sync Strike. Attempted to use my composite switch as the audio switch and because its so “advanced” and “new” it has this auto sense technology that won’t allow you to stay on an input unless video is coming through. Considering hiring a monkey to hold the button. Things look fantastic with this setup. I powered the SS via the scaler as suggested. 2 odd things about that: it seems like the SS is powered by the SCART plug. Odd. I noticed because I put the wires in the top of the SS contrary to the guide which told me to put it in via the side. I’ll put them in anyhow but its weird.
If I can’t find a monkey I’ll settle for some small piece that’ll split the audio. Still waiting for the SCART switch and the VGA switch. The VGA switch is coming from Australia though.
you description of whats going on is horrid "I put the wires in the top of the SS contrary to the guide which told me to put it in via the side. I’ll put them in anyhow but its weird."
what system are you connected to the sync strike may not need to be powered for the sega saturn since it does not a need sync cleaner but Im not sure about the sync strike
Anyway: yeah, depending on if the console is putting out power via SCART, you don’t need to power the Sync Strike. Saturn, Genesis, SNES, Dreamcast (u.s. models): they all put out power via SCART, so no need to power the Sync Strike. No harm in doing it though, just one less bit of spaghetti to deal with if all your systems are able to power it.
(but yeah, like rosser said: Saturn actually doesn’t need a sync cleaner with the GBS scaler, just makes for a convenient (and expensive) SCART port in this case)
