Cool little thing I just found out:
Using an unofficial power adapter for PS2 will cause there to be a slow moving line of static. Weirdest. Thing. Ever.
Just had a thought. What if instead of just plugging the PS2 into the scaler, you were to plug a Wii or an X-Box or hell! A switcher with all of those? I wonder how that would look…
Line noise from the cheap power adapter
The worst part is it was screwing up everything on the switch. I was blaming the switch. The cables. No! It’s the power adapter!
Also, anyone got an answer to my question?
The question is not worded very well. well depending on what scaler you use you could take the native 720p/1080i and scale it to 1080p !?!?
what the fuck question is that I thought you get this stuff as you proclaim?? anyway
I blame my phone. Keeping up with SRK on the go is a pain in the ass.
I’d be using the scaler from the guide and I can’t imagine anyone using component for anything more than PS2/Wii/GCN/Xbox1.
It’s not uncommon for people to want all of their video scaled / de-interlaced before it reaches their TV/display input. Don’t be a jerk about it.
-ud
What I’m asking is: is it even worth it to do? True it will to make the whole thing more convoluted with even more wire spaghetti but for an upgrade I’ll take it.
It really depends on what games you are playing. If you don’t intend to play PS1 games (240p) on your PS2, I don’t see much reason to run it through that scaler. If you are playing 480i/p (or greater) PS2 games, you won’t benefit from running it through a scaler (unless your TV/display’s internal scaling is absolutely horrid, which is not rare).
If you are set on connecting pretty much everything through your TV/display’s VGA port, PS2/Wii/GCN/Xbox1 can all be run through something like the HDBOX PRO, which is geared toward upscaling video sources greater than 240p to output VGA. Otherwise, just hook those systems up to your TV/display via component and hope the internal scaler doesn’t butcher it.
-ud
The internal scaler does a fine job. You should see Neo Geo Battle Coliseum on the PS2 running straight component. Besides the text after the fights it looks like it was made for widescreen. My Wii running component has these weird… I don’t know how to explain it… bits that kinda flicker? (I’m using Monoprice cables) I’ll see if I can get some kind of visual.
But I definitely don’t LOSE anything by running it through the scaler do I? Before DanAdamKOF was telling me that you take an ever so slight dip for 240p support and the lag may even be better then what the TV does internally, according to AVS my TV does 3-4 frames on component. Does the scaler top that?
Most likely not, though I can’t recall the resolutions your scaler can take, so I can’t guarantee it will work with all the games on those systems.
That spec. isn’t very helpful. It should be specified what resolution is being upscaled, not just the fact that it is via component inputs. All displays have a native resolution. Any input other than that resolution must be scaled. If you happen to be running some component video source at your TV’s native resolution, the only lag is the analog to digital conversion. If you run some component source that is lower than your TV’s native resolution, it takes time to do the scaling after the A-D conversion.
In short, I can’t tell you how your external scaler compares to the speed/quality of your TV’s internal scaler.
-ud
It’s the damndest thing. I always associate component with 480p. So I meant 480p via component.
I have the scaler linked in the first post. I hear its pretty common.
Don’t forget that your TV may do some scaling to VGA inputs too, as most likely your TV’s native resolution is not the same as what your scaler board is putting out. That to say: input lag via scaler board = time for scaler board to scale + time for TV to scale VGA input. I don’t think anybody can give you an answer unless you have specs on your TV’s VGA input.
At the end of the day, it’s up to you to hook all this crap up and see if you like it. If you don’t, ask more questions 
-ud
Just want to emphasize this part: if you’re running below native res of your LCD (HDTV or monitor), your panel is scaling the image, VGA input or otherwise.
If it’s a 720p TV with a 1366x768 resolution, the scaler’s manual (http://www.jammaboards.com/arcade_manuals/GBS-8220_CGA_to_VGA_HD-Converter.pdf ) says it outputs as 1360x768, so it should be fine, save for having to go through an ADC (unavoidable). Obviously you’d want to display the image in the middle of that widescreen resolution and not stretch it, well unless you’re one of those people that just has to fill their TV with every input in stretch-o-vision…
If your TV has 1:1 pixel mapping (this is sort of a can of worms on its own BTW) then it’s perfect, but if not, stretching a blocky, upscaled oldschool game by 6 pixels wouldn’t matter very much display-wise (though this means it would technically have to scale the image).
(ranting) Though outputting a computer as 1360x768 into a 1366x768TV that stretches it looks terrible. And don’t get me started on how impossible it is to hook up a computer to a plasma, stupid rectangular pixels… As a video nerd I actually really dislike how most (if not all) 720p TVs use 720p but don’t have 1280x720 physical pixels, but that’s just how it is. If 1366x768 LCDs could let you center a 720p image in the middle that’d be acceptable, but there’s no way to do it right on a plasma.
So I got pretty much everything audio related and I thought I’d test it out. The results are… Not encouraging. I put the splitter into the TV and plugged in my phone played some music and everything was great (the phone audio is a bit low but very clear) after that I used one of the RCA to AUX bits in the other end with the audio from the component switch (basically my Wii and PS2 right now also very clear) and when only one of them are plugged into the splitter everything is fine. When I plug in both however! The quality and volume go to shit. Doesn’t even matter if the other one is on, just gets all broken and crummy. Ideas?
as far as I know only one audio 3.5 or R/W RCA jack can plugged in at a time if not your either going to hear buzzing or low audio the only other option is to make a device the VGA splitter with physical on/off switches for the ports I have have never seen something like this as a retail product
Why, oh why did nobody tell me this until now? Almost the entire setup was relaiant on this working. I specifically asked about this… Shit. I need an alternative or something…
I made my own, but you can find 3.5mm audio jack switches on ebay.
Route all your audio separately through a switcher that supports RCA audio/3.5mm (not clear how your sources are wired). You’ll have to switch two switches (one for video, one for audio) but that will keep things isolated. You can continue using your video switcher this way.