I tried the spring mod with leftover springs from the original Hori sticks that came with the Tekken 5 bundles I’ve bought. After I put an extra spring (2 total now in the JLF) it raised the tension to a nice level and I can finally do dash and taps on the JLF much easier than before! This mod makes it a lot easier to pull off Demitri’s dash Demon’s Cradle in the Darkstalkers games as well as Morrigan’s Double Illusion. It’s a night and day difference! Before the stick was just too loose to do those moves consistently.
I find that it doesn’t make a darn bit of difference for me in SFIV. I can go either way on the stick tension. SFIV is totally different from the Alpha and DS games which require tighter stick forces to pull off some of the moves with consistency. SFIV is really a lot more forgiving on the stick.
I did the stick spring mods with 1 T5 modded stick, my HRAP 2 SA, and the MadCatz TE. The first two sticks work out really well and maintain tension. The MadCatz not so much. For whatever reasons, the spring tension loosens up quickly and it’s kind of pointless to do the mod with this T5 spring. I don’t know what it is about the JLF and its mounting in the MadCatz base but it just does not keep the tension at all! Sure, it’s stiffer than before but nowhere near what I got with the other JLF’s mounted in the other two sticks I modded.
I don’t know if parts were changed in the JLF’s sent to MadCatz – I sure didn’t see any noticeable differences – but something is definitely different with the MadCatz TE. It’s supposed to be a JLF, yes, but I have noticed some funny things with the mounting and elevation on that stick. It sits lower than most JLF’s and the underside faceplate mounting’s different than both the T5 and HRAP mounts.
I bought the springs from Home Depot – didn’t have the package pictured in an earlier post but they still had packs with at least 2 springs in each 4-spring pack that looked like they would fit the JLF’s – but am returning them tomorrow to exchange for some replacement screws. I have enough springs leftover from T5 removals and other elderly sticks I scavenged that I really don’t need the HD springs at all. Seems pointless to keep them (and lose the $$$) when my T5 springs seem to do the job well.
Ditto with the e-rings. I’ve got 5 spares now (removed from Hori stocks that I’m otherwise junking) that I can use to replace the ones on the JLF’s if I screw up one of them but I don’t think that’s going to happen. I’m comfortable taking off the e-ring with the screwdriver I use to tighten the terminals I put in my stick mods and have gotten decent at putting the e-ring back on the sticks. The trick to putting the e-rings back on is to use a cloth or blanket to protect your fingers as you force the e-ring back on. You may lose some cloth/threads when you do this but at least you spare your poor fingers!
Most people who use a JLF or Japanese for the first time (often Happ users) find the JLF to be too loose and they can’t control the stick the way they were used to (stiff) so they add springs to make the stick more resistant.
No, it wouldn’t be considered cheating in tournaments.
can anyone tell me which size the e-ring has? i want to order some e-clips/rings before i open the stick but i don’t know the exact size and i don’t want to order some rings from akihabarashop and there is no other shop which sells original sanwa e-rings.
i live in germany and we don’t have a home depot, that’s the problem
i don’t want to destroy the e-clip and don’t find a fitting e-clip after that. so i’m searching before i open the stick.
You would really have to be forceful to actually do damage to the e-clip. I’ve popped mine on and off at least 40 times trying to get the right amount of tension with different springs…
Just did this mod to my bat-topped Madcatz TE. VERY happy with the results, getting close enough to the Happ feel that I am no longer considering hacking up a perfectly good TE cabinet just to get the real Happ in there.
my parts are finally here and i tested a ls32 spring with the jlf spring and it’s perfect. dashes coming out quick and precise and even the ultra comes out 99% at non-charging characters.
i had some problems with charge characters but i think that lies on the electric tape that i put on the actuator like in the ultimate mod vid.
i also tried the octogate and find it good but for chargecharacters the square gate is better.
edit: after a few battles i switched back to my squaregate without the modded actuator and it’s much better now. the tension of the ls32+jlf is perfect
edit: now i switched back to the actuator with electrical tape. the ways are shorter and the stick reacts faster.
Just picked up a box of these for 4 bucks and some change from home depot for my TE. It came with 4 springs that works with the JLF but I only put one in. Maybe I’ll try it with two plus JLF spring. I also did the JLF ulitmate mod. Stick works great. I like the tension on it better than my stock LS-32 on my Hori HRAP EX SE.
Edit. I took apart the stick and added another spring and it’s a lot better IMO. As for the microswitches instead of sticky notes I used a business card and cut it to the same size. Works a lot better as the sticky notes come apart after awhile.
This is mint! exactly the feel I was looking for! I had tried stretching the original spring from the first JLF I owned and it totally just ruined the feel of the stick… eventually I ended up snapping the PCB so i had to throw most of it out. Just got a new JLF(thank god been using terrible imitation jlf that comes stock in most mad catz sticks(besides TE sticks) going to take a few days to get use to the tension the stick now has but It’s okay i was going to have to readjust my self to the beautiful jlf I just got. yes I know this is a super old thread but they still sell the same exact pack at the local home depot!
