I’m not going to say it…
Just hit the link I posted earlier. Easiest $15 you’ll spend on your project
Well, you’re buying a damaged controller, what are the odds you’ll get something unusable?
imma just buy a madcat ps3 controller. way easier. toy-R-us here i come.
Stop right there dude. DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
If I could not be more clear.
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
DO NOT GET A MADCATZ CONTROLLER!!!
I’ll just say they are un-reliable, and you will spend money to have the same shit happen all over again. There is a reason that slagcoin took that PCB diagram off the site. The left D-pad signals don’t stay held down more than 2 seconds.
Just get a sixaxis and axis adapter. Just get the right shit in the first place instead of cheaping out and spending more in the long run.
I learned a long time ago that for certain things it is cheaper to buy the more expensive item if the cheap item will need to be replaced.
Like he’ll listen. BROKENGOLEM, Im unsubscrubing from the thread. best of luck in your endeavors.
To be fair, I should have said ‘your results may vary’. Most of the damage they are referring to is usually attributed to buttons not working or a bad analog stick. Since all we want is the PCB, and not the analogs, buttons, shell or membrane (any of which are most likely the defective parts) the chances of getting something you can’t use seem pretty low. At the time I was offering the lowest cost option that would work (and is working for me). The site also has working sixaxis pads for $20, I believe. You might find it at this price at your local gamestop too.
toodles don’t unsubscribe… i will take your opinions seriously… where should i start… lets begin from the beginning.
Ok, listen up. Go here. Buy that. Then pick up a sixaxis controller, either a damaged one through the link spenzalii gave or a new one, seems cheap ones are available from the same place. Simple as hell after that, you can figure it out. You’ll wind up spending about $40-50 doing it, but its the easiest thing in the world.
ok thanks for that link. i will buy that next week. 
and im glad u guys are here for support.
sorry for jumping on this thread but am about to start the same project with a sixaxis, i removed the thing that holds the ribbon from the D-pad & buttons and am just left with 20 solder points, and i have removed the anglog sticks as they were broken anyway, can this project be done with the analog be removed?
I have wired up a tact switch for the home button and can power it up ok, but when i tried to wire up the X button just to test and nothing happens, have i got to wire up all buttons before it will work? I appreciate any advise on this
thanks
mick
Ok, first of all, how much of this thread did you read?
whew That thing is a beast to mod! Just finished mine last night (thanks for the helpful pics Chris[Beans] and thanks to everyone for the helpful advice) Now I just gotta stop by radioshack to pick up some resisitors and post a few pics.
If anyone else is attempting to mod a sixaxis without the ffc like the one shown in Chris[Beans] I’ll list what worked for me.
Flat IDE Ribbon cable taken from floppy drive 26awg Stranded
Tiny flat head to scrape away the rubber on the contacts
Flux dipped sponge -no water!!
Ventilated room :rolleyes: flux stinks bad
After scraping away the rubber from the contact pads take about a pin-tips worth of flux on a tissue and wipe the area down to remove any leftover rubber. Trim your 26awg to leave 1mm exposed, and tin each wire **every 2-3 wires give your soldering tip a break and wipe it with the flux sponge.
Now that the wires are tinned we can get to the real hard part lol. Start with the bottom row closest to the leds going from 2-20 then solder up the top. If you have scraped your contacts properly you should only have to apply the tip to the wire/contact for NO MORE than 2-3 seconds, the solder from the tinned wire should melt right onto those contact pads. If they don’t stick DO NOT simply reapply solder and try again this WILL NOT WORK and may fry your pad. Take your flathead and rescrape the contact very lightly to remove the gunk and wipe it off, clip the bad wire away and re-tin your wire and start fresh. After the first 2 pins what seemed to work best was holding the tinned wire over the contact pad and “brushing” the soldering iron tip over the top of the tinned wire until it melted onto the contact pad 
**Post will be edited to include a final pic of the pcb tonight
edit: Friends don’t let friends post drunk. Sorry if I offended anyone -_-;;
hey guys!
im new to this too, im trying to make my own arcade sticks also and came up with this really cheap arcade usb encoder ($12 each), i got 2 arcade sticks i think te brand is g&a (dont know how good they are haha but they were like 5 bucks each so…) and some buttons. i live in mexico so its pretty hard to find spare parts like that. i was wondering if any of you know about the quality of the sticks i bought, and also if you can give me some advice. i want to make them as easy as posible.
Well thank you for hijacking a thread, and a thread that is not at all related to your question.
Please re-post your questions on the** Absolute Noobie Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!) **which is sticked on Page one on this board as per rules of Tech Talk, thank you.
P.S. It is considered bad-form to ‘hijack a thread’ specially one that been necroed (old or was DEAD).[URL=‘http://forums.shoryuken.com/t/absolute-question-and-answer-thread-ask-your-questions-here/88711unread’]