I want to place an order soon but have a few questions first.
Can the bolts remain visible as I want to be able to change the stick out easily?
Can I get the control panel non-routed if I order an American stick? I don’t like the stick too high as the edge where the curved battop ends will eat into my hand.
Can I get a model of joystick not offered on the website installed if I provide the joystick and the specifications to mount it?
Toker,
Those are both a few things I need to work out. I need to double check the artwork, and no the buttons can’t go above anymore, I moved the stick and play buttons up pretty far, so there isn’t room.
Last question for tonight, I promise. 
When you have a chance, can you take a picture of one of your original style sticks next to the new style stick? I think a lot of people would be interested in seeing what the actual physical differences between the two sticks are.
I second that
Will Do.
Evil
The stick looks better than ever Ed! It really makes a difference with less buttons on the top and no visible bolts! One thing though. On astro city button layouts the buttons are virtually touching. Could you use the astro city template for your buttons too?
Other than that though, it really looks great!
Take a look at a HRAP2 for an example:
http://www.hori.jp/products/ps2/controller/realarc_pro2_sa/
Any news on the cost of a PS3/X360 stick? I was the one that e-mailed you a couple weeks ago about an estimate.
All the dimensions, including the buttons, is taken from the link of the dimensions I got from this site.
The buttons can’t be any closer, the nuts are touching, or very close to it. Unless I switch to snap in buttons, that’s as close as they are getting :).
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LOL, thanks Tarzan.
I’m actually going on Vacation April 9-16 so I might wait until I get back to start getting all the new stuff added, or work on it while I’m on vacation.
This way I can get everything worked out while I’m on vacation with my laptop ;).
No pricing on dual 360/ps3 sticks yet.
I don’t see a problem mounting happ sticks the same way. I need to sift through all the options I’m going to have available and get everything in line before it all goes live. My main priority right now is getting all the current orders done before my brief vacation.
Didn’t realise you used screw-in buttons. Oh well, they do have their advantages though. The template from before shows the spacing between the buttons but not between the button rings (hence why the rings are virtually touching) but I guess if you don’t use snap-in buttons then that makes it obsolete if it can’t physically be done anyway.
I’m waiting for the Universal PCB project to complete before getting one of these sticks. I plan to be using mine for a LONG time!
Ed, what do you do with the analog sticks and triggers? Do you disable them somehow?
I’m curious what you mean by complete. It works pretty damn well right now.
The triggers I remove the pots so there is no chance of them moving.
Sticks, I remove the thumb pads and cut the posts so none of the wires can hit them by accident.
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I’m not sure. To be honest, I’m not sure I want to deal with them. However, I will make a blank units available with the 8 holes.
If I change my mind I’ll let you know. I don’t see the point of the eight buttons though, what game would actually use them?
Maybe he wants to map all three punch or three kick inputs to one button. Hitting all the punch or kick buttons has never been a problem for me once I got my arcade stick but was problematical on a keyboard or gamepad.
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To answer your question about the 24mm buttons. I’ve always used them for the Start, Guide and back buttons when sanwa buttons were ordered.
8 button fighter seems like it would be a freaking disaster :). Like I said, I will probably do a blank one with 8 for now at least.
Ed, is there any ETA on when the website will be updated?