Looking like I may need to order another one, Ed, but for PS… lol. Also, damn good timing on the new design, with the new HRAP right around the corner.
I’m looking into getting a stick from here and I know that I prefer an American stick with an American layout and Japanese buttons. From reading the HAPP thread it seems like the Competition stick is the best American one to get. However I see “Magstick Plus Upgrade” on here and I don’t know what it is. Anyone want to fill me in?
i would make the “default” be the astro city layout, which looks pretty similar to the vshg design. just my opinion.
Basically it allows you to switch between 4-way and 8-way control so you can properly play old school games like pacman. IMO the stick is complete shit for 8-way games.
Correct, not a very desireable stick if you are into fighters at all. It’s pretty tight with a very short throw.
Ed, have you found a way to mount the Seimitsu LS-32 yet? It seems to me that the stick is just impossible to mount correctly on a wooden panel if you don’t use plexiglass or lexan and it would be better to use a seimitsu stick with a longer shaft. I know one of the sticks Seimitsu makes is basically an LS-32 with a longer shaft (I think it is the LS-56 but I am not sure) but I am not sure if it has a slightly stiffer spring to compensate for the increase in shaft length.
Ed, I’m loving the fact that you moved everything up and the start buttons to the side.
I hope when you’re ready you will have some options as to button layout, stick etc. (BTW when will you be ready? :P)
Question: Do you plan on making any PS3 sticks? I don’t really care for backward compatibility and I would rather have a PS Home button + direct connect without using a converter.
PS - I like the spacing you have between the stick and the buttons right now. Though I can see why many would prefer the standard spec.
I have large hands and the Japanese layout feels perfect to me. I know that it’s what I’m most used to but really it’s never affected me at all. While on paper it may look like the buttons and stick are too close together, you’re holding the stick with your left-hand so really not much space is needed on the right side of the stick.
Gotcha,
I will be using the Astro City dimensions for sure. That seems to be the request.
PS3 controllers are coming very soon. I Have a few gamepads on the way in to test out to see if I can find the best one.
I’m putting together a dreamcast stick right now with the box I showe above. I’ll probably sell it since I don’t really have a use for it and I used some old artwork I had laying around that is slightly beat up.
Any idea on a price range for the newer style boxes? Looking forward to hearing about the direct PS3 ones.
The price range will probably be the same. Overall isn’t more or less labor involved.
Here is a picture of your stick shipped out yesterday.
http://www.arcadeinabox.com/stuff/imit.jpg
Yes, I figured out the art under button thing ;).
Wow man that stick look awesome, Hey, Ed, i didnt know you got the option for Seimitsu buttons. Are you going to put that option for the PS2 and PS3 Joystick?
Man, i cant wait to get my joystick.
Thanks, Ed! Can’t wait to get that baby.
On the Seimitsu buttons, Ed worked with me 100% of the way on the whole order. He is so good at customer service, he went away from his regular parts dealer, and ordered those buttons for me from Lizard Lick. The guy goes way out of his way to make customers happy. Including putting the art work under the buttons!
I can honestly say that I am more than impressed with Ed’s service.
WTG Ed. :woot: You are gona wip Chad into shape if you start ordering from him on a regular basis. Nice design all around though not my style. Looks nice and solid. Cool artwork there Imitrex.
TTFN
Kaytrim
Thanks Kaytrim, coming for you that means a lot. It’s nice to offer a different style as I have great respect for the work you and other custom builders on here do.
The artwork was a little tricky because initially I wasn’t going to do the artwork under the buttons so the artwork Imitrix sent me had the holes on the artwork (blank white circles). I didn’t like how the buttons looked with nothing in them so he sent me the original artwork that I resized and shaped enough to get a similar size to the printed artwork. Then I laid it out and cut out the parts for pieces for the buttons. I can tell it will much easier using the original artwork as I cut out the holes :).
.
Your case style is reminiscent of the old arcade machines, the kind I used to play SFIIWW on. Since you generally use Happ parts, it all fits together nicely. Do you spend any time over on arcadecontrols.com? I wouldn’t drop your original systems completely. I feel that there still is a demand for them, even though it may be less.
TTFN
Kaytrim
Kaytrim,
I used to spend a lot of time at BYAOC. The reason I’m dropping the other systems is mainly because of sales. The arcade-in-a-box hasn’t sold 1 unit in about a year. With many attempts at marketing failing, and it’s been a huge finacial burden because of these failures. I wish the demand was there. Even the Jamma boxes saw a big decrease in sales over the past year, and the growing incompatibility with modern HDTVs makes it difficult to continue to sell to customer when they are expecting something that will work the way they want it too.
I think the failure is do to the price point. If people can afford it, then mostly likely they have the space to afford a full size cabinet. Anyway, I do appreciate the concern, and I wish I had some reason to keep it available, but the amount of time spent on researching new hardware and software became to much of a hassel for the amount of the systems that sold.
As for the happ stuff, I’m actually about 70% happ and 30% sanwa on my sales. I just don’t take a lot of pictures of the sanwa stuff for whatever reason. I will start though. A lot of that reason was due to the artwork copyright fiasco. I didn’t want those images around when I’ve worked hard to rectify the situation.
Tarzan-
When the new CNC is up and running I do custom work like that pretty quickly, so it’s not a problem. I personally don’t want to attempt to wire the analog triggers, at least not right now.
Since I’m a little ignorant on wiring (which is why I have to buy instead of make), what do people normally do when wiring analog triggers? I’m guessing the analog functionality is lost, but does a button press simply simulate a “full” press?
That is correct. There are no analog buttons. Once the trigger is hacked properly the button registers a full or no press only.
Ed,
I didn’t realize that the old systems weren’t selling at all. Defiantly not worth the hassle then to keep them going.