Don’t sweat it man, I understand and I like the constructive critisism :). It’s just hard when some like it one way, and some like it another. It’s hard to please everyone or else I would drive myself crazy with options :). After this batch of current orders are done, and I have little time to breeze I might rethink it the design and redo it a bit for the next batch. I actually took the dimensions from one of the threads here and redrew it in CAD. I don’t remember which one now, maybe the wrong one haha.
Opips, I’ve done a ton of sanwa part sticks, I guess I just haven’t any pictures :).
After I move I plan on buying one of your sticks Ed, they are just to nice to pass up. Are you able to do multi-pcb’s? I want to be able to use your stick for Neo-Geo and Xbox360.
On the American layout, make the buttons a tiny bit higher. On the japanese layout a tiny bit lower and use the authentic astro city layout (including the distance between the buttons and joystick if you can do it). Also it would be good to offer the japanese player two layout as scene on the rightmost 6 buttons of the Hori Real Arcade Pro 1 and Tekken 5 arcade sticks.
Also, Ed, do you mount your Happ sticks on straight 3/4 inch wood as they seem a little tall?
The astro city layout looks like the traditional japanese layout (although the stick looks a little close but it could just be me!). Button spacing looks correct. Nice find EvilSamurai!
Edit: On second thought the whole astro city layout is perfect including the stick spacing, just me being half asleep!
Sanwas are supposed to be mounted so that the shaft starts about 8-9mm under the surface as on the Hori Real Arcade Pro 2 and Virtua Stick High Grade. Seimitsu shafts should start right below the surface as their shaft is really short. It is impossible to bottom mount seimitsus on wood (Unless of course you use the “S” mounting plate, cut a square shaped hole in the wood for the part that sticks up, and route out little ledges for the parts of the plate that do not stick up. This does not look so secure though so maybe you can find some way to reinforce it with metal. The overlay also would not cover the square part of the metal plate that sticks up.) You probably have to route out the top. I actually think Ed should simply not offer Seimitsus as they can’t be done without ruining the overlay method he chooses. Also, if he offers the Japanese player 2 layout, he should continue to offer offer the player one layout.
Also Ed, have you considered using the Sanwa JLW-UM-8 stick as I think you can mount it correctly without routing the wood. You might be able to offer this as a cheaper Japanese Sanwa option. Keep the JLFs of course.
Hey Ed I really like what you are doing just have a question which might have been asked before. Excuse me if it has but, do you plan on making boxes of different sizes? Maybe some smaller for use on your lap you know?
JCL, I doubt I will make smaller lap versions. There are a lot of folks around here that make excellent sticks that are for that purpose. I plan to keep making them with some good weight and bulk to make them feel as arcade authentic as I can. That doesn’t mean the lap versions don’t feel authentic, I’ve just always preferred playing with my stick on a chair or table in front of me, and know several people that like that approach as well.
So, I won’t say I won’t ever do it, it’s just not in the plans right now. The next step is offering sticks for PS3, PSX/Ps2, and Dreamcast. Then move from there. Possibly a multi system type of setup, I’m not really sure yet.
Hey, Ed, what about the: Bach, Guide, and Star Buttons, are you planning, or can you locate them in other place? like the back of the joystick or in the side of the joystick? and can you put the other buttons a little bit closer than they are? i think they are a little bit spaced.
thanks
I am cosidering relocating the the three top buttons to other locations. That’s one of the first things to do on the redesign. Though that doesn’t help the person that wants to be able to hit one of those buttons to do a taunt.
I’ll play around with ideas. If it’s pretty universal that the curved layout buttons are too spread out, I will make that change too :).
Ed, is it possible for me to email you a list of the options like those you have listed for the 360 controller but instead have them made for a ps2 compatible stick? Also, how backed up on orders are you…as in what kind of wait time would I be looking at?
MidgetT,
I’ll have to look, but I’m guess I’m down to about 20 orders now. I would say I’m still 2 weeks off from having some breathing room and releasing the ps2 controller. I would love to get you ideas for options though.
I think the current options available for the xbox stick are fine. I was most likely looking for one with sanwa parts and the curved layout. I dont know what the dimensions of your boxes are, but you could include an option for a smaller model. These things seem to be occupied mostly by empty space.
Also the art is great, but a bit pricey. i dont know how much that stuff usually goes for, but for the ps2 stick thats almost a third of the price just for some art isnt it?
Love the way this thread has gone. Thanks for listening to all the feedback Ed. All joystick-makers should take note (x-arcade anyone!).
Can’t wait to see what you come up with for the other systems.
Hope you keep on expanding and eventually make lap size sticks. I love the idea of playing on a table too but the problem is that I personally just don’t have that kind of space. That and the fact that if I’m going to friends’ houses to play, carrying one of these huge sticks around with me wouldn’t be feasible.
Is the art pricey? I can’t really answer that, anyone that has seen one of my sticks with artwork know the quality of the printing. These are not done an inkjet printer in my house. They are sent out to a place that specializes in arcade restoration printing, and the quality is absolutely fantastic.
The prints themselves run about 20 dollars, the extra money goes to the artist. I don’t make a dime on the printing, and don’t even charge to install it or anything. I just think they make the sticks look that much better :).
I will reconsider a smaller box. The wasted space is really because I mount the PCB on the back part of the box. This allows me to finish up all the insides before adding the bottom. Which means there are no screws showing anything on the top or sides. It’s just how I like to build them :).
But like I’ve said many times, I’m always willing to try new things and try to cater to everyone. Makes me crazy sometimes, but hey, it’s all good :).
Hey Ed, i think u are the only guy that is not using Street Fighter layout in this forum, it looks like other joystick maker still using them, what about if i send you the art? you can still use it, right? i know u said you cant use copyrighted art, but, i just visited your website and i saw, Akuma, Ryu, Ken, Guile, Chun li, Bison, so u are still using those characters, so why not make a good street fighter group art for us, the street fighter fans?
You didn’t see any of those characters. Sure they may resemble them in some way, but they are not Akuma, Ryu, and Ken. I like to call them Matada, Hero and Ben.
I’m be happy to discuss this with you over PM, as I really don’t want to drag up the whole copyright thing again in this thread. I’ve done what I can to fix what I had done wrong in the past. (Did I just sound like McGwire?)
