Here are my questions
Hmm at question 1, Probably f.lp? Its a decent AA, and you probably have the time to either f.hk, or dash up spd? Its not something I do…but I can see it as possible. Try it out .
Criscoing is the Hakan exclusive feature of dash cancelling, simply. Hakan only while oiled can cancel all his dashes with any normal attack. Its useful for getting around zoning. (Facd fireball, or dhalsim limb, dash cancel f.hk), Normal or focus attack pressure (focus attack dash cancel cr.lk into 360 p or 360 K mixup,) and even gives him special combos (Level 1 focus, dash cancel f.mp, slide). All these are versions of FADNC but one of the, or the best usage of it is as an AA. The idea is to focus an air attack, dash, then instantly cancel to a normal. Your opponent cannot block for 4 frames upon landing, so that is your timing to do it. This can lead to a free combo (FADNC, lp, lp, f.lk, slide). But an easier thing, and what I usually do is FADNC, dash cancel cr.lk spd. Its not something that has ever been countered for me (maybe do to lack of matchup knowledge, but this exchange does happen very fast, hard to react to), and is pretty much a 200 damage AA if done right.
If you want to practice this, go into training mode with ryu, set dummy to jump in hk, and then mash cr.jab. Practice it and if you do it right, your attack should come out before cr.jab. Keep at it until it works! Hope that answered all your questions. Dash cancelling is an advance tactic, and it will take a lot of practice.
thanks for the response on my question. glad to have helpful people in the forum
note
‘crisco’ = FDNC (and or FADNC?).
which means
Focus Dash Normal Cancel
Focus Attack Dash Normal Cancel
Most of my information I got from this video which, while about Zangief and hitboxes, applies here. My comment after the video is a summation of the relevant bits.
[media=youtube]kfc_ivHuOXM[/media]
I am going to assume that Hakan has 6 frames to cancel his jump, just like Geif and Hawk. The game can process one directional input per frame, so theoretically, it will take you 13 frames to input a 720*. Given that you need to finish the input within the 6-frame window of the jump’s startup (because one of those directional inputs has to be up no matter how you slice it), it may may seem impossible. However, an astute observer may interrupt (rudely, I might add) to exclaim, “But Mr. Dagon, sir! Couldn’t you make your first input…not jump?” Alright, Captain Interruptus, you are correct. If your first input is either 
(for counter-clockwise churning) or :f: (for clockwise churning), you will input 5 inputs BEFORE you input any jumps-> :db::d::df::f: if you’re going counter-clockwise, reverse that for clockwise). On your 6th input, you must input a jump. This starts the timer, so to speak, on how quickly you must complete the rest of the churn. Since you need 7 more directional inputs AFTER this (meaning you need 7 more frames), standing 720s seem impossible on paper. However!
*This is ignoring a fact that the hitbox video highlights: you only need to input :d::f::u::d::f: for the game to register a 720. If you are using a stick, you would need to mash stupidly fast to get the game to only register inputs on every other click of the stick. EXAMPLE:
Frame----Input
1-----------
1-----------:db:
2-----------:d:
2-----------:df:
etc.
This means that you are inputting two directions per frame. Also, in case you didn’t know, you only need to input :db::d::df::f::uf: for the game to register a :360:, and you only need to input :db::d::df::f::uf::u::ub::db::d::df::f: for the game to register a 720.
TL;DR: START READING HERE
Standing 720s are possible. You need to spin the stick in a way such that in at least one frame, after inputting the first :uf:,:u: or :ub: direction, you get two directional inputs in one frame (one sixtieth of a second, or 16 ms) and continue to input the other inputs at a rate of at least one-per-frame.
You actually kind of answered your own question in the second half of your sentence. First, I will answer the second part, as CitizenCIA already did: if they are at frame advantage on block, you can’t reversal punish with U1. I usually land it by buffering the inputs while my opponent is hitting me (so, I’m pressing those jump inputs that I talked about in my last post while I’m in blockstun, so the jump doesn’t actually come out!) and then tapping :lp::mp::hp: once the blockstun ends.
^Lol oops! That comment didn’t come out right.
If Hakan only has 5 frames to cancel his jump, true standing :360::360: must be HEEEEEEEELLA difficult.
No kidding. I will worship anyone who pulled off a walking/standing 720 as a god.
Watch the video I made on using cr.lks to buffer 720’s. I know it’s not the same, but to be honest with Hakan it’s probably the closest and most consistent method of getting a stationary standing 720 that you can get.
[media=youtube]IrfJHIG7R-Q[/media]
Buffering into 720 is easy. I’m glad that Hakan’s ultra grab range is a nice 1.5. Cos of the range, its easy to mindfuck people with no oil. With oil I can guarantee people jumping away. As dry they probably try to poke you back on block or whiff.
Got a question for you guys.
We all know that Hakan’s oil rocket and ultra 1 doesn’t actually have big grab box. Heck his ultra 1 grab box is the narrowest, even narrower than Chun Li’s thighs of thunder. He just moves forward really fast during the startup frames. Yet he still has the largest grab range cos of the distance he moves in the startup. But what is the benefit/downside of him moving forward over just having a gigantic grab box like gief?
Also would you prefer a huge grab box like gief or Hakan’s unique dash grab?
Question: I’m not sure how his oil cancels do anything useful. I still lose to fireballs or eat them and what is a good reliable Anti Air timing? I know his standing fierce is supposed to work but it just never hits them, instead it will trade (usually in their favor) or whiff and leave me open. Any general tips with that would be great
Oil cancels are great to get in against zoning! Its all about spacing. play that footsie to position yourself right in dash cancel oiled f.hk range. That way, it’ll differ between characters but one of 3 things will happen. A.you’ll punish the fireball, B.You’ll hit them out of another fireball, them pressing buttons, or them just not being able to react, or C. They’ll block and from the range you did f.hk it SHOULD be safe allowing you to tick throw or predict jump back.
Really, s.hp is the most reliable AA for hakan IMO. But you have other options if that doesn’t fit you. F.mp is pretty good, but a lot of the better jump in attacks will beat it out from my experience. F.lp is great as well, but you’re not getting much damage out of it, I like to sometimes do this little trick and use Cr.hp to sneak right under their jump in, and then SPD as they land. The success rate for that is huge when used sparingly. Again, back to the oil cancels as well, FADC dash cancel into a link or into CR.lk tick throw is also an amazing AA.
Lk 360 K works if you’re really good at standing 360s, and lp slide is also a very good AA that I don’t see a lot of Hakans (myself include) do. Last thing, if you can react fast enough, sometimes I like to jump straight up and air grab as an AA. Air Grab hitbox is great, rarely gets beat + its a free MK oil.
About timing, its all relative to the jump in attack. character, and from how far the opponent jumped in. S.hp is pretty hard to time at first, but it works well when you get used to it, I think.
Oil cancels are useful in many ways. In zoning scenarios with no metre, it is sometimes possible to still get hit by fireball spamming when you are closer to them but still at distances where your faster normals won’t hit. What I recommend is canceling your dash into coward crouch when you are around midscreen distance. His hurtbox during CC is the lower half of Hakan, so some of their crouching normals would whiff as well if they change tactics. Once you get up from CC, you can attempt to fadnc their fireball again or go for a grab if your near enough.
For anti-airing normals, I can’t say when exactly is the best time to st.hp since not all of them have the same jumping height or floatiness. For your generic characters, use st.hp when they start their descent. Maybe earlier if they are nearer. If they are super close to you or dive kickers (unless they are dive kicking from afar), f.lp is a better anti-air to use. It’s faster, and Hakan’s hurtbox is smaller. However, the reach is shorter so you got to let them get a little closer before using it. If you want to you could cross under them using cr.hp or f.mp and grab them from behind. Jumping grab is a good way to surprise anti-air as well. Startup of 3 frames and has a grab distance of 1.1 which is average. Don’t mash grab once you jump, I think its around the 7th frame is when you can grab, otherwise you would end up doing a jumping lk.
I think U1 has a grab range of 1.5? Not sure.
Having a bigger hitbox means that your hurtbox is farther away, which means that it’s harder for them to punish. Personally, I think Gief has the better option, since he can whiff a grab and still be a ways away whereas Hakan takes that step forward. Just my opinion though.
It can sometimes save you a lot of damage. Say you do U1 on wakeup, but the opponent neutral jumped, you can actually go under them, so they would’t get a full combo, which is better than nothing. Although I wouldn’t advise u1 on wakeup too much, lol.
I’d have Hakans any day, just because dashing into it is such a threat, and the range makes some crazy things possible.
Is there any source for accurate Hakan frame data?
http://www.eventhubs.com/guides/2010/may/06/hakans-frame-data-super-street-fighter-4/
I don’t think this has been updated since 2012, so things like the 360K and CR.hp might not be correct. Besides that it should be all good.
http://wiki.shoryuken.com/Super_Street_Fighter_IV_AE/Hakan has the 2012 notes, even though it’s not listed in the frame data. However, the stuff for his specials in incomplete. Been thinking about trying to get the rest of the info myself and post it…
EDIT: however, since 2012 doesn’t exist for PC and I don’t have a capture card, I can’t do it. NEEEEEVER MIIIIIND. If 2012 does finally get released for PC I’ll see what I can do.