I was just noticing that the stick ever so lightly squeaks on the way back to neutral from the following positions: down, up, left+up, left. Is that normal?
This Rt/LT button going out thing is getting kind of annoying, I’m going to call madcatz tomorrow.
necro - Just wanted to bump to say that my joystick now stopped working. Maybe because it has been dropped one too many times? I opened it up again and I did find one of the blue tabs on the circle gate was busted off and rattling around.
Never did get the RT and LT buttons fixed and you can’t call madcatz anymore, it’s all online support. I exchange a bunch of emails with the tech guy but all he kept asking for was a receipt or purchase email info before he would help me. I dont have that because its old and it was actually a gift so I never had that information anyways. I offered him the serial and model number but he just kept asking for the receipt and eventually said he can’t help me. Kind of shitty customer service.
I had also called them a long time ago during a time when it was working and I couldn’t recreate the bug right at the moment so he also wouldn’t agree with what I was saying about it being a known PCB problem and to send me a replacement. And just told me to call back again when it happened, but their call hours are limited so I never called back when the bug happened, I just reconnected and rebooted to do the temporary fix again…
Wow you got 2 years use before your own negligence completely busted the stick. 2 years of heavy use before you have to make repairs, you are actually doing alright.
Just get a PS360+ its the easiest Xbox 360 compatible PCB to install.
GDI.
Troubleshoot your stuff first before making any giant suggestions to buy new parts. I’ve been using my sanwa parts for a long long time with no problems at all.
First: Check your DP/LS/RS slide switch. make sure its DP
If its that, then problem solved. Most likely it is this case
Second: Open up your joystick and make sure your harness is fully seated.
If your harness isn’t properly seated, seat the harness. Problem solved
Third: If its still not working at this point, it can be 3 things. Your main PCB (worst case), your JLF microswitches (not so worst case) or your wire harness (cheapest)
If you own a multimeter, test your microswitches first. If you don’t own a multimeter, tough nuggets. Get one, cheapo ones are cheaper than 20 bucks.
Under your connectivity testing, put one probe on one of the metal points in the individual switch and the other probe on the other metal point in the same switch. Proceed to depress the switch and see if the connection pans out.
However since you are not getting any joystick inputs, this more than likely either sounds like a DP/LS/RS switch or seating problem or a wire harness problem.
To test the wire harness, set your multimeter under connectivity testing once again and put one probe on the metal solder points at the joystick harnesses and see if they connect. Proceed to test all points to see if there is a solid connection going from the microswitch PCB to the main pcb.
Worst case scenario for this is that you have to replace your main pcb.
Once again i stress that you check that your DP/LS/RS slideswitch is set to DP.
Go plug your joystick into a computer. go to controller settings and pull up your joystick
with a stripped piece of wire, hold one end of the stripped and exposed wire to the G point of the joystick harness. Proceed to use the other end of the bare wire to the other directional inputs. if it is not registering, then your main PCB is boned. Once again though, because you are getting button presses, I dont think this is the case at all.
If you don’t want to read this and troubleshoot your problem in a logical manner, I’d suggest just buying a new stick altogether. Save the people who’d help you troubleshoot problems a lot of headaches trying to get you to understand this