Grommet sticks for fighting games

There must be situations where a universal plate is too big. So I will offer a small Japanese plate, and maybe a Korean plate if that’s bigger, and an American plate. Of course the larger plates will have the smaller holes too, so I guess the American one would be a universal (for my stick).

Someone who uses an IL Eurostick would most likely go for the bigger American version of my stick (it’s still smaller than the Eurostick).

I’m thinking of Splate options because it allows a shallower mounting depth if there is space above the flat plate that can be filled. Or if you turn the Splate the other way up, it shortens the handle length above the panel without shortening the leverage or throw and actuation distances.

Not really. There’s a pretty large no-fly zone for Asian metal/plastic panels as American-style countersunk mountings simply don’t exist in the wild. I think you can get it down to two plates: American/Korean 2.60"x3.00"/50x75mm and Japanese 40x84mm (see Seimitsu MS/VF & Sanwa JLF-P1 drillings). If you assume the 2.6"x3" guys aren’t tightly countersinking their mount, which outside of a X-Arcade they aren’t, you can get away with a single large plate. I’d go for the single, but that’s just me.

For the lever body proper check out the Hori Hayabusa. It’s roughly the maximum you can get away with in the X and Y dimensions for 2-player Japanese candy cabs and smaller fight sticks. There should be some wiggle room in the Z dimension as well (correct me if I’m wrong on this…). I’d also use the Hayabusa as a general performance benchmark as well, but that’s just me.

The IL guys are just looking for bat tops with a heavy spring, relatively long throws, circular gate, and thick panel support. All of these are possible on a single common design. You should be able to keep everybody happy with ball top and bat top shafts, each in short and long lengths (i.e. 4 total shafts), along with 2-3 durometer ratings for the pivot grommet. Three PCB options if you go ahead with separate leaf, microswitch, and optical boards.

There’s simply no space above the mounting plate available. Virtually all designs assume the space above the stick’s mounting plane is a no-fly zone and use it for things like mounting bracket welding locations. Only real exception are ones specifically designed around LS-32/LS-40 compatibility and even then, every one I’ve ever seen also supports flat-plane mounting.

Why assume that grommet models are only for other forums? Sure there are more retro stick (wico, monroe, asahi etc) fans on forums such as of arcadecontrols dot com , as opposed to here where the public is generally younger and more oriented to much modern game styles, but I’d like to see this “american” style model you’re talking about.

Could you please post a link or a pic? Seeing what you already achieved would give other members an idea for what is to come once your “japanese” format stick is finalized.
If I understood well, it’s then a grommet + leafswitch stick, revisited by you, in wico style format, correct?

It’s just a size thing, the American version is bigger with thicker shaft, more like a Wico. Japanese version is more like a JLF.

Leaf switch is one option. Other is FLASH1, snap-micro, or non-snap (keyboard style) micro.

The japanese sized stick on the left looks less cumbersome than the standard leaf or microswitch sticks seen in euro and us cabs.
How does the rubber react to forceful play, sweat and exposure to dry climate, compared to NOS wico rubber? Are you actually designing this thing for real or simply choosing options already available on an asian manufacturer’s wholesale catalog?

Design considerations put aside I find it strange that you claim not having any experience with korean grommet joysticks when in reality you sell two crown models on your website, since you are the person behind arcadeworlduk (formerly gremlinsolutions,arcadepartsuk,etc) as seen on other forums ( you mentioned it) having a webshop as well as an ebay store.

here’s one korean stick you sell :
arcadeworlduk.com/products/Crown-CWJ-303-N-Joystick.html

Is it possible you didn’t try the korean sticks you’re selling? hmmmm

If I am not mistaken, this is your proto stick in development :
jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5679/IMAG0594_Small.jpg

Your diagram for Wico ball height looks wrong. About the only thing that low back in the day was Ms. Pac-Man stick (which had a non-standard balltop and metal panel mounted). Only thing that comes close from memory was Nintendo’s in-house stick.

I don’t understand the need for two separate main chassis bodies from an engineering perspective. Why not just offer different shaft and top options on an otherwise-identical piece of hardware? You said you wanted to offer different durometer grommet options anyways. Nobody is attached to the fat shaft of a Eurostick that I’ve seen. Bat top, yes, thicker shaft… not so much.

It’s a good idea to abandon the optical and leaf options. Hall effect and inductive are simply so much better than optical, plus you could build a true analog stick with programmable features if you wanted. All the leaf guy really want is a relatively quiet non-clicky unit, which a strong centering grommet and modern low-resistance “silent” microswitches can get surprisingly close in both sound and feel. If it’s the actuation adjustability of leafs, just offer two different sized actuators.

That and your above-the-plate grommet design simply isn’t going to fly. Just too many cases/panels out there have oddball or no clearances in that region, which means you can never assume that space is usable. You also have the problem of existing enclosure hardware assuming a metal plate, so thicker mounts will make the mounting screws too short (wood panel guys basically all use through bolts from above, so a thinner mounting plate isn’t an issue like it is for the Japanese stuff). Flat plane only and call it a day (i.e. design “D” above).

@jimmer
You keep mentioning you want to use leaf switches.

Correct me if I’m wrong (zero experience with them), but I thought Sanwa/Seimitsu abandoned leaf switches for microswitches because they wear out too quickly (spongy feel)?

Wanted to suggest this a couple of days ago but wan’t able to post from mobile fsr. You may want to consider shims for adjusting the switch placement instead of screws unless you were planning on having different channels for the switches to set in and be held down with a set screw. I say this because it seems like it would be tedious to adjust each screw to the same position to maintain identical engage for all directions. On the other hand, being able to set them differently from each other would allow for a lot more variations in switch placement.

Why use switch placement for adjusting the engage? IMO, using different sized actuators would be a more efficient solution.

There is no adjusting an actuator, only swapping it. Adjusting in this context is a modification to be made to the lever while it is assembled.

Not to derail or anything, but seeing that Korean/Rubber joysticks and Leafswitches are being mentioned here,
I’d like to share this, I saw it months ago but never really had good reason to bring it up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5J_KxIIAiw

this guy applied leafs on a Crown CWJ-303F

just a curiosity, his over video shows that it works, but does not really demonstrate how effectively. I think his main aim was for a more silenced Korean stick… But from what I understand, CWJ-303F’s are the ones that have both a spring and a rubber grommet. So that could be an interesting note itself.

I am actually designing it.

I’m not arcadeworlduk

That is one of my prototypes.

It’s my best guess at the 3.5" Wico dimensions until my Wico’s arrrive.

The small Japanese version makes compromises due to it’s size. It’s is not as suitable for a wide range of handle lengths, but that’s OK because the fight crowd don’t need much variation there.

The non-japanese arcade crowd will be happier with a larger stick. I haven’t drawn battops yet, but yes I expect the American version to be ordered with battops. Don’t worry too much about the American version, I’m here to find out what’s wanted on the Japanese version :slight_smile:

Got to start somewhere. If they don’t sell I will abandon them. I have some contactless ideas of my own, but also waiting to see what comes with project Magenta. Maybe Bryan will let me provide grommet base for it.

I don’t have make just one option. If no-one buys version A, I will stop offering it. But it’s cheaper and has advantage of shallower mounting depth.

I don’t know why they were abandoned.

I started on this because the arcade crowd are asking all the time for a grommet leaf stick.

@jimmer‌
Have you looked at the Crown 303-FK? It’s currently the only Korean stick that fits on a Japanese style mounting.

IMO, anything you do for a Japanese style stick with a grommet would need to at the very least address the main issues of this stick. The first and foremost being that many feel that the tension is too light and most would prefer something closer to the Myoungshin stick’s tension. In fact, there are some folks who will sell an upgrade kit for it to increase the tension.

Another minor issue with the 303-FK is that it still uses .187 quick disconnects to connect the microswitches on the lever. Most newer levers now allow for the use of the standard 5-pin JST connector (or at least have the option for it). For the 303-FK, you still need to buy a separate adapter.

Finally, something which isn’t really a problem but would be a major upgrade from the 303-FK, is compatibility with Japanese ball and bat tops. Only Crown’s own shaft and battop (as nice as it is), works on the 303-FK. Having a grommet sprung lever that works with Japanese handles would mean that it would be easier for folks to customize their handles. Not only with the ball and bat-tops from Sanwa or Seimitsu, but with the many custom ball and bat tops that people here make that are compatible with those (i.e. Paradise’s anodized aluminum bat tops).

@jimmer‌
So basically you’re telling me you’re not Jim Bowley, known as Jimmerjammer from the jammaplus boards ? You were selling a whole lot of new stuff (generic, legit, customs) on these boards and via facebook , hinting people to look for “arcadepartsuk” on ebay (ebay store which doesn’t exist), nor do exist the websites whose adresses are listed on your facebook pages (retrofightsticks.co.uk and arcadepartsuk.co.uk lead to blank pages, and I’ve checked them months ago while reading articles on retrogaming, wico sticks and all, since I’m also genuinely interested in old style joysticks, buttons and games) .
jammaplus link where you present new material including your prototypes : jammaplus.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=60687&title=goldleaf-buttons-joysticks-restrictors

So what’s this “arcadepartsuk” business all about? Just a coincidence that it resembles arcadeworlduk in the title? some stuff you sell is only distributed by arcadeworlduk in the UK (such as the new goldleaf mk2 buttons from BaoLian) . This is not meant as an attack but just to clarify things since professionals usually introduce themselves as pros and not like random fans or DIYers who have a project to elaborate asking other fans and diehard gamers their opinion. I mean if you actively sell and order from manufacturers, a bit more clarity should be introduced in the mix.

the big difference between a pro who sells, repairs and advertises…and a simple fan who has ideas is that the fan will struggle (as it can be seen on this same forum) HARD to order some fizzy 3d printed parts as no manufacturer will make for him one or two protoypes just for the sake of it , while a pro just writes a little email or has a short chat with a chinese dude from baolian or other manufacturer and a dozen of protos arrive in a month with a relatively professional look to them.

Other than that, the grommet stick whose photo you posted on jammaplus.co.uk , which model is taht? a japanese plate-less jlf sized model such as the one present on your diagrams?

what is funny is that people are telling you “do you know this or that joystick model” as if speaking to a newbie when you sell tons of joysticks yourself. Why should it go this way?
The only models you should get your hands on are those of your …competitors, such as groovy game gear who sells some chinese leafswitch generic joysticks, some with grommets, others based on pivots. There’s even a guy who patented some leaf based sticks I just discovered on the web a few days ago. honestly, GGG’s “deluxe” gromemt +leaf stick is ABSURDLY overpriced at almost 50 bucks, which is incomprehen sible for something that is a blatant wico ripoff barely modified with basic leaf holding parts that have nothing special.

How about the rubber in your grommet, how does it differ from the one in the wico repros and inspired clones , often based on natural rubber which sure has some qualities but doesn’t last that long and cracks under exposure to sunlight for example, not to speak of the poor chemical resistance unless many specific additives are included to slow the degradation proces reasonably.

The HEART of a grommet stick is its grommet, so if its too soft to please the JLf crowd, it’ll wobble all over the place when playing “MK” style aka only with taps and dashes on a long shaft with exclusively a bat top. Also the fit of the central tube in which the shaft will go should almost be a pressure fit to limit wobble and imprecision. Another point that is almost never adressed on forums and blogs is the way a grommet is designed geometrically: its concentric grooves act like bellows in a horizontal plane (usually bellows are superposed along the Z axis, on the shaft, as on industrial joysticks and flightsim sticks, but ona WICO type grommet, the “bellows” are concentric and remain in the same plane more or less) . Did you opt for a shape that simply is a repro of wico or did you redesign completely the grommet, which means a different rubber type and a new shape?

Concerning the leafs in the leafswitches, you’ll have to opt for QUALITY leafs that are resilient and do not keep a bend, or else people will disregard them, except leaf only fans who will always buy leafs exclusively, and that is for the feel and the rapidity of firing only. If you simply stuff your stick with some random chinese leaf whose leaf alloy remains undiscolsed to you (chinese manufacturers already are producing on a large scale repro leaf joysticks and some vendors are already distributing them).

As for the question of should the leafs (and micros eventually) be adjustable, I say why not. As long as it remains precise, after all the actuation is only a matter of a fraction of a millimeter and not everyone is ok with buying a goodie bag full of different radius actuators to swap in and out. Only diehard modders do this, while people only oriented towards gaming will occasionally swap once in a while and stick with a given configuration. But that’s only my opinion. Some people spend thouisands of bucks for a pile of custome joysticks cases and play hours too. As another member said, you cannot please everyone and wil have to make a compromise or simply issue different versions of your stick.

I’d like to know the answer to this as well.

So are we planning on a rebrand/tweak on these things?



I highly doubt it, since the sticks you quoted are not grommet based, but pivot based.
the pivot bearing is placed UNDER the dome that is riveted on the bottom plate (which is contrary to what is done with usual joysticks that have their pivot or grommet near the upper mounting plate), the spring presses on a nylon washer on the shaft, pulling the pivot bearing UP towards the balltop. The said washer on the shaft hits and slides against the inner sides of the white nylon restrictor screwed on the top plate , you can see the restrictor just under the dust washer.
The first stick you quoted is a plastic body variation of the bent plate models, with an additional jlw style restrictor, nothing more.

To top it off, all the models you mentioned (MD branded, with BLEE switches) are blatant chinese ripoffs of the forgotten Asahi-Seiko sticks which had the possibility of being fitted either with leafswitches (with platinum plated contacts) , either with levered microswitches, on the same lower steel plate, adding a nylon plate for the microswitches . When in leafswitch mode, the switches were custom type, not the typical NOS leafswitches seen in electrical applicances and arcade cabs . The chinese wholesalers (who sell only retail the clones at a price (10-12usd) which is even superior to what Asahi Seiko legit units are sold right now (still sold in southeast asia for 5-6usd). Google is your friend and start to learn indonesian, because they won’t speak to you if not and may probably disregard any quote coming from a non-professional public. This stick needs its own thread, but I doubt most people on Shoryuken would be interested in this type of stick. They had unusal restrictors in that you had to unscrew the top white plastic insert (top plate remember) and replace it by either a round , a two-way or a square restricting insert. A "top restrictor " if you prefer. The chinese clones do not have these alternate restrictors, only the round one as for the full plastic body type, there is a bottom restrictor also, which makes the top one useless (but still present, a design fault…)

Chinese manufacturers actually produce all sorts of replacement units for old leafswitch based systems. They consists of molded parts of plastic sandwiching the metal leafs and are secured with 2 screws with washers. these are probably the type that JimmerJammer thinks to put in his prototype, unless he opts for the extremely expensive NOS wico leafs, which I highly doubt.

If someone designs a stick with leafswitches, it is in his interest to design longlasting and resilient leafswitches or to obtain such readily designed units. The Rollies are unfortunately not adaptable to a stick unless you remove the base plate and start drilling and tweaking, even then the design must consider that leafs should not be overly bent when the actuator fully contacts the restrictor. Jimmerjammer has made a homebrewn mod to a seimitsu ls-32 if I’m correct, including rollies and a block of wood ( jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5679/IMGP3038r_Medium.jpg )and another guy on a blog came up with a relatively cleaner mod of a zippy stick and rollies again ( robotron2084guidebook.com/defender/technical/zippyyleafconversion/ ) . Both mods were 2-way only , due to the rollie baseplates which are cumbersome in the area where microswitches are supposed to be held in place.

@Agieze Read my reply again. I am not arcadeworlduk. But I am jimmerjammer.

And I’ve got the facebook pages Retro Fightsticks UK and Arcade Parts UK, and the domains retrofightsticks.co.uk and arcadepartsuk.co.uk.

And I’m here gathering information for the grommet stick I’m planning to make.

It’s a shame you found that zippy leaf mod, not my best effort. I gave up with that and now modify the original Defender stick. Your investigations seem to have missed my youtube efforts. Here’s the best 2way stick in the world (at least until my next one comes out) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTThix6OUlA as testified by the best player in the world https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fy75G3X7FFw