Excellent work! What type of joinery do you use for your cases? And what kind of table saw is that if you dont mind me asking.
Answered in PM. 
Thanks.
I use loose tenon joinery. It’s stronger than glue alone or dowels, and no fasteners are required. I use a jig I made for my router to cut the slots. I plan to do a worklog when I start my two player case (just waiting for the wood), so there will be a lot more details on that when I do.
Here’s a pic of the process:
My tablesaw is a delta 36-980 contractor’s saw. It cuts true and hasn’t let me down. Once I get my shop remodeled early next year I plan on having a 220 line run and I’ll upgrade to a cabinet saw.
Nice saw! It will be killer on 220. I just picked up a delta 36-649 and added a biesemeyer fence. I am jealous of your cast wings. 
Thats strange because I was just reading about loose tenon today. Pocket screws would probably be strong enough for a stick haha. Those are the strongest sticks on shoryuken without a doubt! Plunge router I assume?
That’s a great saw too, not much different from mine except for being (I think) right tilt.
I’d gladly give up the cast iron wings for a bies fence. I plan on replacing them with formica laminated extensions pretty soon, and maybe drop a second router table in the left wing.
I have the T2, and it works fine, I’ve been lusting over a bies for a long time now though.
Pocket screws would probably work, what I was afraid of though, is the screws poking too far towards the edge and hitting them with the roundover bit when doing the corner roundovers. On square corner sticks, or even rounded over with, say a 1/4" bit, pocket screws would be fine.
I decided on loose tenons because of the strength, no fasteners needed, and all I had to do was build the jig. All I bought for it was an $11 spiral upcut bit. I would have had to spend a bit more for doweling, and it while dowels work fine for arcade sticks, they’re not as strong as loose tenons. Yep, plunge router, and guide bushing. Tomorrow I’ll take a few pics of the jig I made.
The woodworking is definitely my favorite part of stick building.
Do you joint and plane your stock? Seems like the way to go considering the cost of s4s these days. Ive had inconsistent size and warped stock and it seems like it would resolve that as well. Of course thats big box grade. The saw mill is a bit different. :tup:
No jointer or planer yet. A planer I plan to get pretty soon. A sled can be built to face joint boards with the planer. I use my router table to edge joint at the moment. It works fine. A real jointer I’ll probably get soon after I fix up the garage.
I order all my lumber online. The closets place to me that sells lumber is no better than the big box stores, and doesn’t even carry any of the nicer domestic woods like walnut or cherry. I have a few sources, no big issues with warping, though I get the occasional board that won’t cooperate. >:(
Wheres the pic of your jig? I looked up a few mortising jigs but am curious about yours.
I didn’t forget.
Here’s the jig:
The two sets of toggle clamps are for holding the front/back and side pieces in place.
Set up with a front/back piece:
For the sides I use a .01 shim (from a rockler router table jointer shim set).
It goes between the jig and the outside face of the sides to bring the mortise a bit towards the outside. This way, the front and back hang over a bit for trimming (I’ll go into more detail on this with my two player build).
Everything is referenced off of center lines. The jig has a center line in the opening that I align with marks I made on the work pieces.
Once it’s set up for each operation I run through all the parts that need that particular setup. It goes pretty quick.
2 Thumbs up on the design! :tup::tup:
Thanks.
I keep meaning to redesign it, but it works great, so I’ll probably just keep using it. If anything I might get some smaller toggles for it. I ran out of the smaller ones I had (the horizontal clamps) so I had to use the big ones I have (the upside ones). Works great though. Super clean cuts with the spiral upcut bit.
Spiral bits cut excellent. If only they werent so brittle. Sorry about hijacking your thread. :razzy: We should start a show your shop thread.
I haven’t had any trouble with mine; it’s a 1/4" whiteside, item # RU2075. I bought two thinking I’d burn through them pretty quickly, but I’m still on the first, and it’s still cutting as good as the day I got it. I spin them full speed and take 3-4 passes for each mortise.
No worries on the hijacking. I love talking shop. I’m silly like that.
There is a show your shop thread. I haven’t posted any updated pics yet though. I’m trying to wait until I get the shop remodeled.
ya, i was going to tell you two to take it to the wood workers thread…
Just wanted say I’m super impressed nitewalker…I definitely recommend his work and have, top notch stuff.
Thanks.
Your case is definitely unique and I can’t wait to see it finished up.
Lookin fwd to seeing what ideas u come up with in regards to the handle…case is Damn impressive well to me at least lol
Haven’t seen any posts in here in a while. You working on something new Nite?
I have a few case orders I’m finishing up and still tweaking the website so ordering is easy.
Slaycruz’s case has something new on it and looks great.
I can’t wait to see it when he finishes it up.
Once I get those done I’m doing a nice 2 player case for my coffee table. I plan to do a worklog of that one.
Hey Nite,
By chance do you have that template for my case you made me? I want to get some artwork placed on it soon. Thanks!