perhaps…Im liking the wooden balls
Ill try and get some from you soon.
perhaps…Im liking the wooden balls
Ill try and get some from you soon.
fucking nice
I’m stopping for the night. I really wish it would stop raining here so I can do this where I’m not flooding my garage!
I was stupid though. My camera’s battery didn’t charge up last night. Wasn’t seated in the cradle right. I’ll take pictures later. I have a couple of guys I owe freebies to. Once I hear from them which ones they want, the rest of what I got done today will go up on the store. I have a few Clearys, 2 emeralds, a ruby irridescent, and a torpedo.
I also have a pair of imprefects, one clearys where I couldn’t get the insert all the way in, which might be good for someone that made a stick and set it too deep. The insert acts as a spacer. I also have a pink that the top chipped badly. Someone might want it for color-matching. The imperfects I’ll put up as 1 penny 3-day auctions. Whatever you want to pay for it, you get it. If you order something else with it you get it shipped free.
I think that’s pretty fair. Actually, I should have though to keep some of the split ones. Stick makers would probably like to have them around for color matching anyway. Oops. I’ll try to hold onto some from here on it. If you buy something else, I’ll toss those in free too.
When it is available I would love to get that Ruby one you got. You have a price yet because I can pay any time.
is that a standard sized D20? The Nerd inside of me wants a D20 stick top but i think it would feel weird if it wasnt close to a 35mm balltop size.
It’s cool if you don’t have blue balls. I’ve got a pair of my own as it is.
:lame: joke… =B
It is just slightly larger than 35mm. Honestly, the thing rocks. I’m holding off buying more until I can get them in quantity though. Buying them individually gets expensive in a hurry. That, and I wasn’t sure what interest level there was in them. I’d definitely use it for function over pretty. Nothing beats the others in the pretty department, but for sheer functionality, the dice tops are going to be hard to beat.
For purposes of size comparison:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/655053949/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1308/655053949_2845dde348.jpg
Left to right:
Sanwa, Clearys, Meteor, Emerald, Pine, and 1D20.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/655053969/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1152/655053969_33c4693eb1.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/655054199/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1249/655054199_607b969e97.jpg
I need to put this in the terms of purchase, but I cannot guard completely against minor chipping near the insert. I do everything I can to minimize it, but I can’t guarantee 100% flawless entry. Also, these are made of recycled glass. There may be minor imperfections, and some aren’t a 100% perfect sphere, but they’re all very close. I pull the worst, and if there’s a serious deviation I’ll post it in the sale item.
First glass ball is up. The reason this is taking longer is that the guys I owe freebies too also bought extras as well. As a result, they bought just about everything I made yesterday!
I’m not naming names, so you can’t harass them either. These are selling a bit better than I thought.
Some pictures of my latest creations.
New Emerald One (on sale in the store):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/662355706/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1277/662355706_01d5c1f51f.jpg
Baby Blue (SOLD - leivian1981):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/662355558/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1115/662355558_df9f87c139.jpg
Here’s a couple of action shots of the Baby Blue (there seems to be a lot of interest in those…)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/663031418/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1375/663031418_26b70af9a2.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/663031466/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1226/663031466_8bd5ed43a9.jpg
It occurs to me that given the avatar I’ve been using, I should really find some orange ones with red or black stars on them.
I like the blue pearl ball on ebay on your first post i would concider buying it… but it all just depends on my joystick art. But these look really cool im looking forward to seeing what all you can do in the future nowing that these are the firsts so the nexts will be better : )
look forward to dragon balls off of DBZ or something idk you have alot o potential : ) good luck i will end up buying one though
Sold to Sazae
Ruby Red:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/numbski/663537303/
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1082/663537303_7cdc7b9c72.jpg
throw some pink or yellow stuff
Done. There are two pink ones up. Both are listed as imperfect, but one of them is more or less a cosmetic issue.
That ruby red is nice, so nice I went on and bought it from your eBay store. Can’t wait to get it, looks great and will look awesome on my red Sanwa custom.
Thanks man. It’ll go out in the morning.
BTW - mind taking a picture of it on your stick and posting it back in this thread?
That goes for any of you that buy from me. I want action shots!
Attention to anyone who has bought, or is looking to buy from me soon:
I will be leaving the country beginning Thursday, July 5 and returning Friday, July 13. During that time I will not be able to make any new ball tops. This upcoming Monday, July 2, I’m going to be putting in an order for more balls (as I’m almost out), and ordering a custom manufactured drill bit. For the moment, what you see on the store is what you get, unless for some reason you need something before I leave, in that case PM me and I’ll work something out with you. The problem is that store-bought glass bits are rated for 4-5 holes, and as a result at this point I’m destroying more balls than I’m producing. I can keep buying new bits, but they’re $8 each. Not very efficient use of money. If you absolutely must have a glass top before I leave, I’ll basically leave it to you to cover the cost of me getting a new bit. The bit I’m ordering on Monday is a custom-engineered bit specifically for this application, and is rated to 1000 holes. The downside is that the bit costs me $180. !!!
So that’s where we are. More or less, you can buy what’s on the store, or understand that if you want something before I return to the country, I’ll have to buy a new store-bought bit. I’ve gone through 3 of those already, adn I’m no looking forward to having to buy another, but I will if someone really needs it.
That said, I have on other quandary. Those whom have paid me already, your balls will ship on Monday rather than today as prior discussed. The reason is that when I came downstairs this morning, 2 of the tops I had on joysticks had cracked, one completely, one partially. These were two of the first I completed, and at that time I was setting the brass inserts directly to glass, and as such the inserts were ever so slightly pinched. The thermal contraction when things got cooler overnight cause the glass to press against the brass. Since there was no give, the balls cracked. More recently I’m drilling wider holes, and wrapping the inserts with plastic. I’m confident that this will mitigate the themal contraction problem, but I don’t want to ship prior to knowing for sure. The balls I have made already I have bolts run into. If they make it until monday morning without cracking, we’re probably in the clear. Just don’t put these in the fridge.
Next batch I’m going to toy with using nylon inserts instead of metal, that way the glass can safely contract without risking this.
Sorry for the delay, and thanks for your interest!
smart idea with the nylon :).
No cracking from last night. Looking good.
Chipper, out of curiousity, I had some stain laying around (Vermont Maple) and the first wooden ball I did was horribly off-center. I ran a bolt into it, tied a piece of string to the bolt, and dipped it into the stain. I did two “coats” that way, and I’ve put a single coat of polyeurathane. I haven’t sanded it yet, but it looks pretty decent. I need to pull my cam back out. This doesn’t change anything, I’m still sending you those two, but if it puts anyone’s mind at ease, there’s PLENTY of grain to these. Also, try to do a color other than vermont maple chipper.