First wave of third party Xbox One padhack options

@liquidsnake4ch great work!!!

One question, what if I replace one of the PCB with a PS360+? Should it work right?

Thanks

Figured the diodes would have worked to bad I. Was impatient on the pad and didn’t think about it till after

I just finished up a quad mod set up using a MKX PDP pad for the Xbox side and Hori FC4 for the PS side. Have a really weird issue though. The default state on the Xbox pad is 360 mode–if I jump the system select and ground it, it switches to X1 mode. I have both system selects wired to a SPST switch and it works perfectly on the Playstation side (I test this by confirming Home button doesn’t work on PS3 while in PS4 mode, and also that PS4 doesn’t respond to PS3 mode).

Ok, so the PS side functions exactly as it should using the SPST, however, the Xbox side is stuck in X1 mode. No matter how I try, if I’m soldered on the board, it is in X1 mode. If I pull a wire, it switches to 360. The system select for both Xbox and Playstation setups are wired together, so I cannot figure out why the Xbox side doesn’t work (stuck in X1 mode) while the Playstation side function flawlessly.

My first thought was I had a solder that bridged to the ground, but I confirmed this wasn’t the case, but just pulling a wire and moving it up the circuit to a small pinhole. I imagine if I had a bridged solder, no matter if I removed the wires or had them on, it would always work on X1. Anyone have any ideas what could be going on? Thanks for any feedback.

Can you measure the voltage for the system mode signal separately when in a high state?

Thanks, Gummo. I was just getting ready to post some additional results–basically, you cannot have the switchers wired together. They work flawlessly individually, but when together, it causes a high state mode on the Xbox PCB regardless of switch position. I guess the easiest answers would be in this order:

  1. Only wire the switcher on the Xbox PCB. You’ll have 4 console functionality minus the home button when using on a PS3.

  2. Instead of using a SPST switch, use a DPST switch. I imagine this would totally resolve the issue and have 100% functionality on all 4 consoles.

On measuring the voltage, sure let me get that info and post back a little later. What do you theorize is happening? Thanks again for the response, Gummo–you’re pinouts and explanations made doing this a LOT easier.

Just a quick thought–perhaps the PS PCB low voltage is actually high enough to trigger the high voltage state on the Xbox PCB when wired together?

So I just installed one of these in a PS3 brawlstick dual/mod (triple mod actually) setup and the Xbox 360/Xbone side of it goes TURBO crazy when I want to use it.

Basically, the stock PS3 functionality works like normal, but when I switch over to Xbox the turbo lights start flashing and buttons start double inputting. This happens even though I’m not pushing the TURBO button.

So the way I did the install was sending all the Xbox MKX pad signals to the Madcatz PS3 terminal strip and then GROUND and V5 to the PS3 PCB and finally D+ and D- to the toggle switch.

I can’t figure out what’s going on. I wouldn’t even mind completely disabling the turbo function if that solves the issue.

Did you check the pad first before installing it? There are reports of pad players saying the x and a registers as being pressed multiple times when only pressed once. Because of this I have stayed away from these pads.

Yeah, and it actually worked great, but the problem I believe has more to do with it having problems with the Madcatz PS3 turbo function. I say this because the actual turbo lights on the Madcatz panel flash when this happens. For example, right after I hit X/A, the light for that button begins to flash and that input repeats itself like crazy, then if I hit SQUARE/B it does the same thing and so on.

I feel that should be step 1 of any pad hack, Test the game pad before dissembling it.

I have a similar issue where the LK light is constantly lit on my 360 TE turbo panel whenever I have it switched to using the Xbone mini controller which otherwise works flawlessly. It doesn’t change any inputs or anything, it’s just an annoying cosmetic issue.

It actually keeps sending the signal on mine, repeatedly :neutral:

This is what it looks like under the strip (first time dual modding using the actual madcatz strip)

I have been trouble shooting it and basically the only thing I can tell is that on the XBOX side it acts as if the TURBO button was pressed. It acts the same way the turbo function would normally act when you have the buttons pressed down even though it’s not.

The strangest thing is that it doesn’t always do it, or doesn’t do it right away. I started playing KI and the first few inputs were ok then all of a sudden it started doing it again. If I unplug the controller it goes back to normal, then after a few inputs it gets crazy again.

@poisonmar

misinformation

Also if you do not need turbo cut that signal off that’s a simple fix however diagnosing the problem I can’t really advise you on it because I actually don’t know

@Yenjoi So all 10 of those are soldered on the wrong side?

Where can I cut the turbo signal? Is there a way to completely disable this function?

Upon observing again that is a ps3 PCB correct?

more misinformation

To disable the turbo I’m not sure actually since its on the ps3.

They are soldered to the correct side.

.

I’m blind

You are on the correct side sorry for the misinformation…

Shouldn’t be an issue with the PCB. But you did confirm its a ps3 one.

You can chain those two grounds together with a lil hookup wire and see if that effects it.

If it didn’t work before its sure to work after connecting the two grounds

It did not work Unfortunately.