Ah, okay. Thanks. How about the DS3? Is that common ground?
Nope. None of the pads Sony made for the ps3 are common ground.
Good to know. Thanks.
Hereâs a picâŚI wired the vcc on one end and the button and ds4 signals on the other end of the resistors.
There is stuff missing
2 transistors, for a matter of fact
Where is the signal wire going to after you have it wired up to the resistor (those two purple wires)? Are you dual modding the ds4 with any other boards?
The only way I can see that working is if you are using a cherry switch and have the signal going to the Normally Closed pin.
If you look at my previous post I did try to use the transistors, but that didnât work out for me, I donât know whyâŚReason why i went with this method.
The two purple wires are signal wires from the buttonâŚThis is not a dual mod. Iâm not using cherry switches only Sanwaâs.
I have no idea why its working, but Iâm glad its working.
It shouldnât be working. L1 and R1 are active high (0v not pressed, 5v pressed). The way you have it the pull-up resistors are keeping the button signals at a high state. So if you looked at it on the pc youâd see them as being held down. When you press the button you ground the signal pulling it low causing the buttons showing to not be pressed
Your rightâŚI just tested on the pc and it acts exactly what you described. when I did the padhack i didnât test it on any other system other than the ps3 with the transistors in place it would not work with the ps3 only my method worked.
Gummo, did you test it on the ps3 using the transistors?..
I figured why it wasnât working with the transistors I assume the dead bug circuit was common groundâŚI wired the ground from the dead bug circuit to the ground on each of the L1 and R1 buttons and now its working.
Update: Schematic image I had before was completely wrong. If youre just doing PS4 though all you really need is the resistor between 3 and 4 (also 17-18). No need to invert R1/L1 if using all the DS4 pins.
Gummo! First of all I want to thank you for your input during my XB1 mod to both of my Madcatz sticks. Both went off with out a hitch (aside from the ultra thin stranded wire on the USB cables I used, lessons were learned). Still working like a charm since Feb.
On that note, Iâm looking to do a pretty extravagant stick with and Eightarc Fusion, and putting in both XB1 and PS4 PCBâs as well as having headphone outâs for 360, XB1 (with external controls for the stereo headset adapter), and PS4. In short, I plan on wiring both controllers to the Eightarcâs main board and using two switches to route USB signal: one for last gen/ next gen, and one for XB1 / PS4 when the prior is set to next gen. The headset outputs will all be wired directly to the proper output circuits to minimize loss of audio quality and signal noise.
Since this will be my first go with PS4, Iâve got a few questions.
- On the R2/ L2 wiring, it looks like you just attached the buttons to the proper side of the 10K resistors. I assume this was to minimize hassle with the PS4 PCB, correct?
- For the L1 / R1 inversion, were you using NPN transistors? I made a simulated breadboard setup using a 2N3904 transistor, led, and a button. Things worked as I would have expected. Just want to double check.
- From your experience, would it be OK to use a common ground for all boards, keep constant +5V to the Eightarc board, and use a 3PDT switch to direct the +5, D+, and D- on the XB1 and PS4 boards?
- What 4PDT switches do you use? Anything that seems robust from a supply website is very expensive ($15+ per switch). I got shitty DPDT ones from Radioshack and they died when I soldered them up. I got more heavy duty ones from Radioshack that feel far more robust. They will be hidden so profile isnât a problem.
- What temp did you set your iron to when you soldered up the PS4 PCB.
Gummo, thanks again for all of your work in this little corner of the universe. I really appreciate it. Without it, my friends and I wouldnât be playing KI in the same way⌠And I would have never had the feeling of success I felt when my previous XB1 mods worked on the first shot.
Chris
Not sure about 1,3, 4 but:
2. Need constant 5v and GND across all boards. Your 3PDT switch is only for D+ D-
5. Hot as fuck because Gummo
Thanks Vicko!
- For my Xb1 dual mod i did exactly that. Shorted VCC and GND and used a DPDT for D+ and D-. I posed the question looking to avoid having rogue wireless signals firing around. What is the drawback to cutting VCC to a specific board? Mind you I would keep constant VCC to the original Eightarc board. Not trying to be difficult, just want to understand.
- LOL! What do you prefer for close PCB work?
Chris
I use a 25 watt iron.
All boards need to be powered. Otherwise the signals will be left in a floating state.
I do the same thing and use a 25 watt iron, anything higher gets too hot.
And adjustable soldering stations are not always that feasible (also they are expensive)
Gotcha. Iâve read that all boards need constant+5 in the past, and was guessing it for reasons such as this. I think Iâll just use a SPDT On-Off-On for the home/ guide buttons on next gen boards. This this way i can kill them both if i choose.
As for the iron, I picked up this when I did my XB1 mods. http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW
I would have stayed away because it seems too inexpensive. But a friend got one and uses it all the time. For my needs it worked fantastic and didnât break the bank.
I used a cheap 15w from Radio Shack and it worked fine, lol. Soldering those tiny points was a pita but thats was mostly from inexperience. Putting a tiny bit of solder on the wire tip before soldering them on helped a ton.
That is referred to as tining the wire, you should always tin wires and sometimes contact points before soldering as it helps make a nice âwetâ bond for the solder.