Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead

So I read something extremely important as I was preparing to do this mod…

THE DUALSHOCK 4 ONLY WORKS VIA BLUETOOTH!!!

Even when connected to USB, the radio is still handling the controller communication. Here is link with what seems to be an official response from Sony about the matter:

http://community.us.playstation.com/t5/PlayStation-Peripherals-Support/Why-can-t-the-Dualshock4-be-used-as-a-wired-controller/td-p/42265241/page/4

…and an excerpt from the bottom of the page listed above:

“OK sorry guys, i have bad news. Got a response from Sony below. PS4 going on eBay :smileysad:
Dear Leo,
Thank you for your recent email.
We are sorry to hear about the issues you have been experiencing with the blue-tooth connectivity for the Dual Shock 4 on the PS4.
Unfortunately, since the controller requires a blue-tooth signal, this is a permanent feature and there are no settings that can be altered to disable blue-tooth connectivity.
We apologise for the inconvenience and hope that you remain a loyal Sony customer.
Please feel free to contact us for any further assistance.
Regards,
PlayStation Support Centre
REF: 131129-003721
Phone (Australia Support) : 1300 365 911”

Maybe I missed this in an earlier post stating something similar, but I wanted to make sure that this is a known issue.

Sorry to burst any bubbles. But as always, happy modding!!!

I don’t see how that is an issue.

Stupid question on the L2/R2 solder points…Are the resistors there to disable them, or do you just add another wire from point 4 and 18 to the buttons to make them work? i think i know the answer, but i just wanna make sure lol

This has been known for quite awhile.

Actually, based on what we know. The PS4 security chip that Sony uses is actually a BlueTooth chip that does its authentication via radio.

It’s so the signals aren’t left floating. Without the resistors things like moving the analog sticks caused the triggers to register.

After wiring up the resistors you would wire up 4 and 18 to the buttons.

am i the only one having problems removing the data and battery connectors? has anyone found an easy way to do this?

The usb connector is easy. Start out using a small flat head screwdriver to pry off the plastic connector. Then use a soldering iron to desolder each pin one at a time.

better off using a dremel to cut the battery connector off tho.

is it possible to do this mod using a standard dpdt switch if i wanted to dual mod with a ps360+? I understand all of the wiring concept behind it all, but my question is…at which point will the bluetooth try to turn on to connect wirelessly? i tried to do a single ps4 mod, and it wouldn’t read the controller when plugged into usb, it would only charge it. When i would press the home button, it would pick it up, but would instantly disconnect due to the battery not being connected. I’m concerned the results will be the same if your not using a 4pdt switch and using the same method as gummo. has anyone else been having this issue?

When you press home on the ds4 is when it will try to turn on to connect wireless.

When plugged into the ps4, you have to press home as well.

So is there a way to disable the blutooth function? It would seem that we have to press the home button to activate the pcb even plugged in, thus it will try to connect via blutooth. Or does it not connect via blutooth when plugged in? Which way would you recommend taking to get around this problem?

The controller will not work if you disable the bluetooth on it.
I recommend wiring home on the ds4 to a different button on a stick like turbo. Or if using a switch with enough poles, wire up the home signals to the switch.

Just tossing this out there… If the stick get’s plugged into another console, has it been confirmed that there isn’t a potential lapse between the new sync and old sync. By this, I mean, In a tournament setting, if you played on console #1 and go to re-sync on console #2, is there a chance that you could effect console #1 before the new sync has occurred?

That has not been tested. I would think that would not happen though because you have to press home after you plug in the controller.

The last 2 PS4/XB1 dualmods I’ve had to do I’ve had to add 2N3906 PNP transistors to the deadbug circuit in order to get it to work on Xbox One. Without adding them RB & LB are constantly active and cycling through the XB1 menu. This has only happened over the last 2 PS4/XB1 dualmods, prior to this everything worked fine without the added PNP transistors. Has anyone else ran across this?

I’ve ran into that type of scenario before but forgot which setup it is that it happens in. I just ended up adding diodes to the circuit to fix it.

@Gummo‌ I might go the diode route next time since I have a bunch. Any specific diode I should be using?

general purpose diodes.

Alright, I have lots of 1n914 & 1n4148 switching diodes so I’ll start using them.

Hey @Gummo‌ have a question man. I have a PS360+ with a crossbone in my stick. on my crossbone I have screw terminals, is it possible that I can add a ps4 pad(I have the space) and connect to the crossbone? I guess this is also a good question for @Phreakazoid‌ as well. I’m going out of town so I want have time to install and test it until next week. Just wanted to get your .02 man.

Also the deadbug setup, what are the black parts? I know the brown are resistors correct but not sure about the black ones. Sorry for being clueless on the deadbug thing.

thanks

you can add as many PCBS as you want as long as they are all common ground and have power/ground connected to each.