I replaced the hex inverter but I’m getting the exact same problem, minus the issue of the L1 and R1 buttons misfiring when I touch it. I’m also having problems out the wazoo with getting the thing to integrate properly with my Cthulhu / Imp setup-- either the PCB won’t activate when I plug the USB cable in and push the PS button, or it will activate both the DS4 PCB and the Cthulhu as two devices and run them as two sticks which confuses my PS4 and I have to plug in a second controller to fix it.
I’m kind of at a crossroads at this point-- is my current setup something I can actually fix and I’m just doing something wrong, or is my ambition of having a natively PS4-compatible Cthulhu stick a bit too lofty? I’m this close to taking the Dualshock 4 padhack out and either sticking the 360 PCB back in and buying an adapter, or abandoning legacy console support on this stick, buying a Brook PS4+ Audio board, and putting the Cthulhu in one of my other sticks. I really would rather not do the latter since I love being able to store my hacked cables inside of my Mortal Kombat TE stick, but at the same time I feel like an adapter is a somewhat un-elegant solution and I still wouldn’t have access to the audio port that I fussed with so hard to fit into the panel.
Yes, I’m trying to dual-mod it with my Cthulhu MC and IMP switch. I thought it would be a simple matter of swapping out my hacked Madcatz Fightpad PCB with the hacked Dualshock 4 PCB but it’s not that simple, apparently.
If I were you I would start testing just the normal functions of the ds4 alone. Unplug the hex inverter and wire up pads 3 and 4 ( and 17 and 18) together with the 1.2m resistors. To see if the rest of the wiring is good. Once that’s done you can narrow the problem to the inversion.
I’ll give it a try. I used 10kohm resistors like the OP suggested, although maybe there’s a problem somewhere in my line. Still doesn’t explain the sync problems unfortunately, but that is probably more a problem to do with the Cthulhu dual mod.
I’ve got some perf board. I should probably do it properly because dead bug does kind of suck.
I think I am starting to understand the problem. The first inverter I used was probably defective (I had problems with that batch on another project I was working on a while back), and the current chip I am using is apparently meant for lower voltages which is probably the source of the current problem.
I’ll try ordering some 74HCT04N inverters since they’re intended for 5v, which is what the DS4 triggers output. Fingers crossed I will get everything working just right and not end up ordering a Brook PCB, because that would be a lot of money.
On a side note, does anyone know how to wire up the headphone jack so that it will only turn on when I plug in my headset? I ran a hacked 4-pole 3.5mm cable from my external headport and plugged it in to the DS4, and apparently that completes the circuit without even plugging the actual headset in so I’ll need to keep it unplugged internally unless it’s in use. are there pads that I could solder the headset port to directly that would make for more seamless operation? How difficult to remove is the original headset jack if there’s no other way to solder to them?
Got my new hex inverters in the mail today, and it’s all systems go! I even used perf board this time instead of soldering straight to the legs like a barbarian.
Also, it may or may not have been the root cause, but I realized that my ground wire wasn’t actually grounded. In any case, everything is correctly wired now and I am no longer getting signal conflicts. It’s even syncing with the PS4 properly now!
It’d be nice if I could get that issue with the headset jack sorted out but for now I am going to just count my blessings and be glad that it all works properly.
I’m still having problems with getting disconnected. Really embarrassing when it happens in an online match. Am I supposed to leave the battery plugged in? What could be causing the connection to break?
I’m also getting rare but random instances of the share button being activated on its own, at least when the battery is plugged in. So it looks like my choices are between random disconnects and randomly having the share screen pop up, both of which are enough to throw a match.
I’m drifting back towards plan B which is to buy a Brook PS4 + Audio board. I’m not a tourney player but my current setup really isn’t viable for online play. If I can dual-mod the Brook board with my Cthulhu that would probably be the best option for me. The padhacked DS4 won’t necessarily be useless because I do have some other sticks I could drop it in, but I think I may have to accept that this was an expensive experiment that didn’t really pay off.
I was able to padhack a JDM-040 aka DualShock V2. 1 day before Tattakai Holland, I noticed my DualStrike V3’s start button didn’t work as intended in Tekken 7 (Legacy controller support). So, I decided to quick & dirty padhack one of my DS4 pads. Didn’t had a 10kΩ resistor at hand, so I left out L2 / R2 completely. They fired randomly, but I didn’t bind any actions on them in-game - so no problem. Quick note on L1 / R1: wired them up to 3.2V, didn’t need an inverter.
All in all, I’m very satisfied with the result. Having a wireless fight stick is another plus :)!
Alright i did the padhack of the original ds4 that came with ps4 slim (yes ds4 new version with lightbar). Had to do it with ps4 controller bcoz i dont have access to other alternative here in Pakistan and shipping them itself would cost more than the controller so ds4 is the most logical choice for me. This thread helped alot, but searched web for the missing pics on the first post but failed to find one.
so i did hit and trial for the connections and had to trace pcb for option and share buttons. Best way to to do that is to connect it to a pc to test.
for option button and share button, the points are at the down right corners of the both square buttons on pcb. For touch button the point to solder is at the left down corner of the button.
for picture. https://imgur.com/a/JXfsF
I installed in on my old ps3 TE 2.
hacked the turbo and home button on TE 2 for touch button and ps home button respectively.
select and start button with share and options.
soldered the usb wire to the pcb.
extended audio jack to the wire storage compartment.
Everything is working perfectly. it was a huge task. took me more than 12 hours. It was my first successful project involving soldering
Now the stick works wired and wireless but i intend to use if wired.
I’m thinking about the pad hacks and doing a little research, I’m thinking about a feasible alternative to the difficult dual pad hack 4. The objective of this is to get an arcade wireless stick with native support for Ps4 and by extension, also for PC using usb or bluetooh.
The plate or flex developed in principle to install scuff in a dualshock as standard. I wonder if it can be used to map arcade buttons and install everything in an arcade enclosure. I have the doubt if it will be necessary to invert the buttons r1 and l1
I leave you an image of the element, I would like to know if someone in the forum had ventured with this issue before. It does not seem necessary to have to make an investment in any button (R1 or L1) but maybe someone expert can get us out of doubt.
Long past when satsui cares about this probably but I’ll be able to let you know about this soon as I ordered two of those from Console Customs last night. After reading this thread several times and then finally getting some cheap, used DS4 on a B2G1 at Gamestop and opening them up to see how tiny everything is it seemed worth the little bit to try and save some real hassle. I’m not going to any tournaments or are even any good at anything so the convenience of wireless with headphone jack is worth the trade offs compared to using a wired board.
So after taking the controllers apart my plan is to use the controller design to my advantage instead of my detriment. The inner chassis of the controller holds the board nicely with a pair of clips and the screw that goes through it and the battery tray. So I’m going to dremel off the excess on the sides, clear the top for running the wire that do have to connect to the board still, and basically convert it into a big stand off for the board. By doing that I can then use that flex PCB for easier soldering access since the chassis holds the flex sheets to the contacts on the PCB.
Assuming that all works that leaves me with five solder points to the board itself. The L3 and R3 seem actually reasonable, connecting to the legs of the Options, Share, and touchpad click are still going to be super stressful though. Just have to not screw those up and I’ll be home free if my plan works out.
Clearly there’s something wrong with me that I’m doing this very expensive and difficult project in the name of laziness…
