What you have planed for the rumble motors?
Not sure. Thinking some kind of LED feedback, blinking LED if theyre not too bright. Thought about just attaching the lighter of the two motors to the bottom of the shaft but im not sure thats smart in fighting games. Plus, id have to find a way to make sure I can remove it if I ever want to change something out.
I just wired up a JDM-030, and it works well. You donāt need any inverters or extra ICs, btw. You need only splice 8K resisters in-line to replace the ones which were removed. The home button, I believe, was the far bottom-right pad - assuming that your orientation is as if you were using it normally. You can safely run just about any LED that you want to the rumble motors, so you shouldnāt need to concern yourself much about voltage, other than selecting a LED that will light up at 3 volts and that you will enjoy. If you want it to blink, you need to find a transistor that operates with 3v at the collector.
Yeah I figured the rumble motors would light a small LED or two easily enough. Just wanted to make sure it wasnt too weak or burned. You can strobe it with just a transistor? How so? I was thinking of making a small oscillator circuit for that. Is the rumble intensity controlled by PWM? That would make it much easier.
The ICās I would use would be for switching between DPad control and left/right thumbstick. Not sure how yet but id need to know how the analog sticks work in order to get that going, if possible.
Got an extra ds4 pcb and an old ps2 stick laying around. Can i just solder the wires straight to the buttons and stick instead of using a stripboard?
Yes but use long wires so you dont pull the pads off
Yes. Stripboard is mostly to stay organized and make any future mods easier or fix mistakes (terminal blocks are better IMO). Also the resistors for L2/R2ā¦ will be easier on a stripboard.
I still suggest using a terminal strip.
If the wiring from the buttons gets pulled for what ever reason, it stop at the terminal strip and not rip the pads on the PCB.
Ok so the thumbsticks! If anyone is wondering (since no one answered before). It was as I thought in a previous post (sort of), short the middle pin of the X/Y axis to + and youll get Right/Down respectively. Short to ground and you get Left/Up respectively.
Neutral is a little tougher but youll basically need to center it between 2 resistors of equal value. The entire potentiometer read at 10kĪ©s so id go with something close to 5kĪ©s for each. I used 2 4.7kĪ© but 10kĪ© registered the same. That said, while testing on my PC, on nuetral, the analog pointer (the +) was not perfectly centered compared to one of my other DS4ās, it was slightly low and to the left. My guess is this is because of the different resistance values due to the +/-5% tolerance of the resistors I used. Ill try higher quality ones for the final. I tested with Dragon Age Inquisition and SFV on PS4 the characters didnt move in either direction, but that could depend on the sensitivity programmed into what ever game youre playing.
Couple side notes: I removed the thumbsticks, or rather bended off the potentiometers because my desoldering skills suck, but its better to leave them on. Let the thumbsticks control the neutral position then short to either + or ground to move them in whichever direction.
Also, Pad 3 and 17 are both exactly the same, just positive sources (3.2V or 3.3V). I was able to use Pad 3 to stabalize L2/R2, as well as test out the analog sticks and L3/R3. Should work with all other active high triggers as well. I even plan to use it to power the switching circuitry. Didnt know that before ā¦ less stuff to solder.
Anywayā¦ on to getting that switching circuit made.
EDIT: Did some initial rough tests and it all went well (nothing fried!), so I should be able to build a circuit that would allow switching the joystick to control D-Pad, and the left and right thumbsticks with only 15 resistors, 1 quad 2-input ANDās, 2 quad 2input NAND ICās and a lot of soldering. I just hope the DS4 can power it all. Ill put up a full schematic once its all said and done, which will take a while.
Hello. First time modder here.
I have a Qanba Q3 and planning to install a FC4 PCB to it. However this leaves me with a problem: where the hell can I put the PS4 <> PS3 switch? Iām having issues with putting holes in the body of my arcade stick (not to mention that itās wood) so I do have an idea, but Iād like to verify with you guys first before I do it.
- Does the PS4 mode of the FC4 work with the PS3? (In case I leave out the switch or leave it inside the arcade stick cavity)
- If so, does the PS Button work in the PS4 mode when connected to the PS3?
Thanks and more power to you guys! 
It will work on ps3 in ps4 mode, but home wonāt work.
thanks!
Currently I am having issues on the PC with the latest Hori Fight Commander pad (this one). I had my Mad Catz Fightstick Pro modded with the PCB and it works like a charm for the PS3 and PS4.
However we had a hard time linking the LS DP RS switch to the PS3 PS4 PC switch. Right now it is just linked to LS-PS3, DP-PS4, RS-PS3. I am having repeated disconnecting issues with the PS4 mode on the PC when playing fighting games.
Should I just disconnect the LS DP RS switch and leave it permanently in PS4 mode? Thanks!
Sony just announced Playstation Now for PC, with that said, they have a wireless USB adapter nowā¦from website
"Weāre also introducing a new device, the DualShock 4 USB Wireless Adaptor, which launches in early September for a suggested retail price of $24.99 ($29.99 CAD). This adaptor will let you connect a DualShock 4 to PC and Mac wirelessly, and will enable every feature of the controller you know and love: buttons, analog sticks, touch pad, light bar, motion sensors, vibration, and stereo headset jack ā as long as the gaming application supports these features. "
New PS4 Slim will ship with new DS4 series that can supppsedly play via BT or USB. And using these new DS4 series on a vanilla PS4 will yield the same benefits w/newer firmware.
http://i.imgur.com/bAzkrTS.jpg
+Decreased input lag via USB (Only x2 DA4s can be connected via usb simultaneously)
+Potentially eliminating āforgot to desyncā incidents at tournaments
+Faster Charge & Play times
Well this is going to set me back a bitā¦ 
I get the feeling these will be required in tournaments if you want to use dualshock, particularly EVO which were somewhat reluctant to allow them this year as it is. Think its worth it to wait and padhack the new one instead?
I want to add native Dualshock 4 support to my Mortal Kombat TE stick and I think padhacking is probably my best option. A used Dualshock 4 doesnāt cost that much and Iāve dealt with much more fussy / delicate solder jobs in the past.
And even if itās a feature I probably wonāt use that often, the Dualshock 4 has a built-in DAC which means my headset port can be wired up. I donāt expect Iāll be doing a lot of voice chat while playing fighting games but itās still a nice bonus.
Question: I have a DS4 that I want to padhack, and I also have some hex inverters leftover from another project. I was wondering if anyone smarter than me could tell me if they would be interchangeable with the recommended 74HCT04N inverters? The ones I have are Texas Instruments CD74HCT14E. I am not knowledgeable enough about the inner workings of these things to really understand how one inverter chip might differ from another, although I also have some SN7406N inverters left over from a C64 floppy drive repair project that I did. Itās not the ned of the world if I have to order more inverters but Iād like to know if Iāve already got something that will work just fine first before I go and order something that Iāll have to wait a week for.
CD74HCT14E
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/CD74HCT14E/?qs=DXdcjUGny5OXlRs2jUPiOg%3D%3D
SN7406N
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SN7406N/?qs=ZA235jQDfbpLQYL%2FidpLLA%3D%3D
Thanks in advance!
You can use either ones. Their pinouts are all the same.
Excellent! Looks like I can start a lot sooner then. Thanks for the tip.
I am getting some kind of weird crossfire effect between the L1 and R1 buttons. Pressing either button will regularly cause the other to misfire, and for whatever bizarre reason, if I touch the plastic on the hex inverter chip it causes the R1 and L1 buttons to activate. That seems to me like the chip might be defective, so should I try the other type of hex inverter chip I had? It would be a PITA to have to go back and re-solder another hex inverter but I think thereās something wrong with the one I used.
Itās a shame because my setup is now working except for this one problem.
EDIT this goofy thing seems hellbent on making a liar out of me. I fiddled with a few connections on the buttons and now everything is working properly. For now Iāll try insulating the hex inverter with some electrical tape and hopefully that is an adequate safeguard.
EDIT
After ziptying this monstrosity together I am getting the L1/R1 crossfires / misfires again. Iāve got the 10Kohm resistors, the VCC and ground wires all soldered up correctly as far as I can tell. Is a bad chip the likely culprit?