Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead

Perhaps I wasn’t clear enough in my original post, but I’m not looking for assistance. I am well aware of what you’re showing me, and it wasn’t what I was looking for.

As I said in my post above, I couldn’t find any visible contacts on the board itself around said buttons. However, I have already found them.

My hunch was right, you can access buttons 9 and 10 (aka Share and Option) on the exposed contacts on the reverse side of the board. Each button has two small pins visually similar to the original design. The rightmost pin of each set is the one you want.

I’d provide an image but I’ve already secured them with hot glue, but for anyone searching, rest assured, they’re there.

You can use the corner of the membrane/switch rather than whatever you metered on the back. Same as the first rev in the initial post.

So… any reason not to buy this and use it to padhack a free DS4?
http://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Dualshock-Board-Remap-Install-4/dp/B00SVHWMEQ

You have to make sure your DS4 controller revision matches that flex board.
Also Flexboard is a pain in the ass to solder to, less forgiving that a stiff PCB, especially if you burn or lift a solder point.

The flex boards fit all revisions, and it’s not difficult soldering onto the pads, I use them myself for customers who need paddles on their controllers. If you want to keep a fully functional working controller and still want the ability to use it on a stick this is a good way to go.

Thanks guys! I have exactly the answer I needed thanks to kkolding! I am planning a franken pad with a DS4 with working dpad and left analog, with the rest of it inside the housing. So this sounds like the perfect answer. Being able to keep headset functionality is an added plus too!

No problem I will leave this picture here for some inspiration.

Nice!

Great, informative thread! Read the whole thing and spent some time googling for flex ribbon repair. Think I may have stumbled upon an easy, clean way to tap into the DS4 pads without soldering directly onto the DS4 circuit board. Have parts shipping in the mail as I type and will post pics if things work out. My purpose for hacking the pads is a bit different, but the approach seems the same. I want to add IR reception to the DS4 so I can control the PS4 from my universal IR remote via Arduino & the pad hack. But I want to still be able to pick up the DS4 and use it to play games on the PS4. Could easily gut the DS4 and abuse the circuit board, bending it to my will, but seems more exciting and adventurous to make it look like it hasn’t been touched.

i have a stick i just bought, it´s a te2+ ryu edition for ps3/ps4, i bought a mkx pad for xbox one/360, i´ve wired everything up, i bought diodes. cathode is soldered to the mkx pad and the anode to the te2+ pcb, i know if i solder the cathode to the button wire it´s working, but i would pretty like to use the connectors on the te2+ pcb side. i mean someway that i dont need to wire from the mkx pad to the button. any help? ideas? btw i dont know if this post should be in the general question thread or here. sorry.

totally wrong thread

How do you wire a L3 or R3 up on a DS4?

Each analog stick as a tact switch which is L3/R3. They have 4 pins, but only two pins are used as they both have another pin that is continuous with them. Note that they are not active low signals so they either need to be inverted or wired up to use their own common line.

Thanks Gummo!

Hello people, someone hacked a JDM-030 already?

I’m trying to figure out the USB pinout from the main board back connector. I know wich are the possible grounds but i don’t have any clue about the VCC, D- & D+ (i only get the main board BTW, without anything else)

Any help will be very useful (and i think it will contribute to this thread too)

With the pcb powered on you could use your multimeter to identify GRD & VCC(set to read VDC). And the other two remaining pinouts will be D-/+

Hello there i got another ds4 board and after doing all the solders (following the actual guide), using the inverter “dead bug” too i got a fully wired setup.

But, something odd is happening, only my pc using Windows 7 recognizes a “Wireless Controller” with all the buttons, hat’s and axis working correctly.

When i plug in the controller to my ps4 it doesn’t do anything :S, even i tried connecting the usb cable holding the Home button and nothing happens :S

There is something i should take notice about it?

Thanks!

I dont have the ribbon cable wich contains the usb connection, so i cant identify the VCC :S

Upload a pic. You can usually eyeball test points or contacts where the usb would plug in. If you’re uncofortable testing with power On you can just test for continuity. Plug in a usb cable you can cut apart and attach a lead to the red wire and use the other lead to touch test points until you hear the audible tone. That’s your VCC. Repeat with your black/ground. Green and white cables as well.

did you press home first?

Ok so I made a custom stick a few years ago using DS4 PCB and make a couple posts here. Now im back thinking of making some improvements including touchpad with switch, R3/L3, light bar with some fiber optics, and now (MAYBE) im thinking of using a 3 way switch and some old cmos chips and transistors I have left over do that DP/LS/RS switch the TES2+ has (might skip this).

Im going for something as close to a wooden TES2+ with, headphone jack and wireless functionality.

Any tips would be appreciated… less work I have to do with multimeter the better.

Looking at the pic quoted:

  1. Which of those 4 points in (red box) should I connect to a switch to have it work as L3/R3? Im assuming is either of the left to either of the right?

  2. I know the X axis is the top 3 points at the top for X and right for Y (white bars). How do they work? Im guessing its the center gets connected to one of the side ones depending on which way the stick is moved but im not sure. Anyone else done this? Would I need resistors sort of like for L2/R2? Whats the polarity?

  3. Also if anyone knows the voltage/amps of either of the rumble motors… :grin:

Hope I made enough sense to get some answers lol