Out of all the pads to damage 3 and 17 are the ones you don’t want to. I can’t remember what exactly the repercussion is if you leave them floating. It had something to do with the analog stick signals acting up when the trigger buttons are pressed.
Yea thicker than necessary, they worked alright though. The wires are connected to a stripboard.
I just tested it, & all of them worked perfectly including Pad 17, was lucky to solder a tiny bit of copper remaining from broken pad 17.
I need to solder Option & Share but I only have single dot for each & the other is ground (JDM 020). is there any other more secure spots for them?
Soldering to the small dot is fairly easy, just don’t have your solder on it for to long 
I’ve just completed the padhack for my HitBox… and come to find out that the metal casing that HitBox Arcade uses prevents the bluetooth signal from escaping properly, causing disconnects and laggy inputs. Is there a way that you can extend the bluetooth antenna from the DualShock4 PCB by soldering an extension that attaches to the outside of the metal case? If so, where is the bluetooth antenna located, and can someone provide a visual reference (picture)? Thank you!
This has been stated before which is why the first post and the title have been stated to not use this pad any longer.
There is no such attachment or extender.
hello every body i have a ds4 pcb that i just deploy from my ps4 controller and i wanted to use it for my hori arcade stick ps3
can i connect all the wires to the pcb ? if it is possible pls help me i am completly done trying to find some one explaining this but didn’t find and i find this forum and the tutorial for connecting a xb1 pcb.
i know that is hard to do but i want to do it i want to make this challenge can some one help me ? i can post some photos if possible …
sorry for my english guys i cant learn english language and i am actualy a belgian guy .
hope will find some help , THANK YOU 
Wiring up a DS4 is harder than the XB1 mod
Its not a project for beginners and even the experts prefer other boards
Literally the first post in this thread has everything you need.
ın this video pin 1 is l2, pin 2 is l1 on the paper . ıs that wrong or ı missed anything?
Hi,
thanks for your great guide. I followed all your instruction, but i have two problems:
- when i press triggers, after using your inverter, they don’t press any button, but they move DPAD in right-bottom corner. WHY???
- i soldered joystick movement pins to DS4 pcb and GND to the common ground. But, strange behaviour, sometimes if i press joystick down, it takes down-left. but it’s random.
Could you help me, i’m going fery crazy about this!
Thanks man.
Sounds like your soldering is shitty and you aren’t running power/ground to your other PCB
Can someone please point out to me where the L3 and R3 points are on this board?
Hi ,
I am modding my arcade stick with single ds4 pcb. I connected 1.2m ohm resistors between r1 r2 (17-18) and l1 l2 (3-4). R2 and l2 buttons is ok but l1 and r1 didnot work . Is there anybody know about this issue ? Thank you in advance. I also used 10k resistors but it is still not work
@nomatter03 If you do it as I did it should work fine, you don’t need 10k ohm resistor when modding the ps4 controller.
@Edgar Hope it helps
Thanks, kkolding!
I do it the same as you did . I dont understand where am i making mistake . Thank you
Local scene asked me to padhack a spare DS4 and one of their loaner sticks together, and found something I haven’t seen posted here yet.
http://i.imgur.com/335Qi0i.jpg
They went ahead and split the contacts onto two halves of the board.
I made a quick diagram for myself and thought I’d share. Not sure how helpful it is to others, but I went ahead and labeled out where all the contacts according to the buttons it uses on Direct Input.
http://i.imgur.com/yoyPZBv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7vQY1Ts.jpg
These could very well be the same positions as the original board designs and I have done two other DS4 packhacks successfully, but it’s 2AM here, and I need to sleep.
Another odd thing, apparently L1 and R1 are active low now? Maybe I’m high, but again, it’s 2AM. I need sleep.
Also, no idea where the Start/Select pins are on this design. Wish me luck.
Please keep in mind if you ask all the experts right now they will state that the DS4 pad hack isn’t worth the effort.
Also see those black bars in the middle of the trace “doing nothing” and is not a contact, those are resistors.
Sony is also known to to a metric F ton of board revisions and making pad hacking hard as possible
Your Selec, Start and Touch panel keys are on the board
Oh yeah, I’m aware of all that. I’m just sharing my findings. This isn’t my first DS4 rodeo. I’m mostly still using these things because local people in the scene keep destroying their pads, making them perfect candidates.
That, and a few people I know actually use Vita TVs, which don’t work with the Hori.
Oh, and when I said I couldn’t find Start/Select, I meant on the board itself, I’m aware they’re not on the membrane and are separate from the core cluster. There aren’t any visible contacts on the board itself around the buttons. I’ve found a pair of potential suspects on the back of the board, but I haven’t checked them yet.