Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead

[FattyWinnarz]

Top hole to middle, middle to bottom, left to center, center to right

Really you should just glue them in place instead.

Actually no really you should just glue them in place on an FC4 instead but we’re past that point I guess

[kkolding]

So I just finished my first attempt on the DS4 pad. I ended up using 2, 1.2M ohm resistors for for my mod

I hope this will help everyone else, who is trying to hack the DS4. ( this is not for dualmod but only for PS4, it works wireless on PS4/PC/MAC and wired on PS3 )

[Vicko]

That will only work in a single pcb setup though, which is why the original post said you need an inverter for the triggers.

[kkolding]

I know, but I felt the post lacked this visual information. And also the DS4 is great alone and wireless, you can use it for PC/PS4/MAC wireless and wired for the PS3.

[Darksakul]

Thank you for you time and effort making the guide

[kkolding]

Thank you for you time and effort making the guide

Thank you! I was confused with all the information, since I have never done a padhack, all these new term’s of resistors and what not. I didn’t realize that this way was possible, without the toodles trigger mod. Only when I saw @YourMKArcadeSource video on he’s DS4 padhack.

I can see why people rather use the Hori pad instead of this for dualmods. But I found this hack very easy after I got it all mapped down.

[Darksakul]

Thank you for you time and effort making the guide

Thank you! I was confused with all the information, since I have never done a padhack, all these new term’s of resistors and what not. I didn’t realize that this way was possible, without the toodles trigger mod. Only when I saw @YourMKArcadeSource video on he’s DS4 padhack.

I can see why people rather use the Hori pad instead of this for dualmods. But I found this hack very easy after I got it all mapped down.

Sometimes doing what you did is the best way to learn, you practically drilled that info into your brain.

[YourMKArcadeSource]

I found this very easy as well. Worked out great for me. Nice job on the hack kkolding!

[EJM]

I don’t believe this has been posted yet, but the DS4 also works wirelessly on the PS3 now.

How to use a DualShock 4 wirelessly with a PS3

[Darksakul]

I don’t believe this has been posted yet, but the DS4 also works wirelessly on the PS3 now.

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/2014-07-02-how-to-use-a-dualshock-4-wirelessly-with-a-ps3

Wireless? Really?

I did saw this, “doesn’t work with certain games”

[kkolding]

Even better if it works on the PS3 wirelessly =)

[Darksakul]

Even better if it works on the PS3 wirelessly =)

Keep in mind it will not work with certain games, example Gran Turismo®6

[DrgnSlyr]

Here’s one I haven’t come across before:

I bought a bare JDM-001 from Akishop earlier in the year. I just finished installing it in a customer mod and after testing I find that it times out after 8 minutes, which would mean a Bluetooth issue. I’m thinking these Akishop PCBs are dodgy as fuck (factory rejects or something) - I posted previously in the Xbox One pad-hack thread about a dodgy PCB bought from Focus-Attack (sourced from Akishop). I’ve never had this issue on Dual Shock 4s that I’ve personally gutted.

Personally I would use a different PCB like FC4 or MKX since they are already CG which means you can dual mod later and they have system selection built in.

But, to answer your question, you do need to add resistors on 3-4 and 17-18 for R2 and L2 respectively, and solder to 4 and 18
Wire L1 and R1 to 2 and 16 by themselves.

Yeah I changed the thread title and first line in the first post to reflect that. There’s really no reason to padhack ds4 pads anymore now that there are better 3rd party pad options.

I know, but I felt the post lacked this visual information. And also the DS4 is great alone and wireless, you can use it for PC/PS4/MAC wireless and wired for the PS3.

Hey guys, thank you all for all your efforts it most definitely is a lot of help.

Any detailed tips for soldering to those tiny pads? I’m fairly decent at soldering but I fried two of the pads already xD

The thing is, neither the solder alone or along with the wire get to stick to the pad! I’m using 30w iron & good quality rosin core wire.

Oh and… please tell me there is an alternative to pad 17 <_< it’s almost fried completely…
http://s17.postimg.org/6u9bhzsob/IMG_20151221_WA0003.jpg

[Gummo]

There is a via, but it’s difficult to locate it and even harder to solder to them than the contact pads.

Pretty much if you are capable of soldering to the via then you are skilled enough not to of damaged the contact to need the via.

[DrgnSlyr]

There is a via, but it’s difficult to locate it and even harder to solder to them than the contact pads.

Pretty much if you are capable of soldering to the via then you are skilled enough not to of damaged the contact to need the via.

If I don’t need R1 button, can I just leave pad 17 disconnected?

I’m fine with 6 buttons…

[Darksakul]

There is a via, but it’s difficult to locate it and even harder to solder to them than the contact pads.

Pretty much if you are capable of soldering to the via then you are skilled enough not to of damaged the contact to need the via.

If I don’t need R1 button, can I just leave pad 17 disconnected?

I’m fine with 6 buttons…

Then go with that

[DrgnSlyr]

]

Then go with that

What about floating signal & random button register?

[Vicko]

Sounds like you borked it. Rather than proceed further, throw away the controller and use any of the other suitable pcbs mentioned in the first post of the third party padhack thread, or get a brook.

[DrgnSlyr]

Sounds like you borked it. Rather than proceed further, throw away the controller and use any of the other suitable pcbs mentioned in the first post of the third party padhack thread, or get a brook.

Thanks for ur input man, I will definitely look into using other PCBs for future mods.

As for this pcb I only have pad 17 damaged, I’ll look into locating its via point if I successfully soldered the others.

In worst case scenario, I’ll always set R1 button to “no function” from in game to work around the floating signal.

Thanks again guys & I’ll post my progress later.

Update:

Just done soldering… looks promising… on to testing.

[Vicko]

Those wires look super thick. They aren’t going straight to buttons are they?