That been debunked, wireless does not cause lag (it was the early days of Xbox 360 and PS3).
Dumb question is all boards getting power and ground?
Is it happening when you are playing Xrd on your PS4 or when you are playing Xrd on your PS4 via the PS Vita?
PS Vita TV when streaming PS4 games will lag.
If nothing else try to isolate your Qanba board from the PS4 board, and see how the PS4 board operates on it’s own.
I suspect the Qanba Q2
You are misunderstanding what I’m saying. I’m not saying that the wireless protocol is causing lag; I’m saying that the wireless antenna may have a very poor signal inside the chrome stick housing, and that this poor signal may be causing dropped packets (or something similar). Are you saying that someone has specifically verified that there is no lag even when the wireless signal strength is poor? That seems an odd test.
In any case, the key question is whether input signals are being passed through the USB cable or not. I thought they were, but to the best of my knowledge, there is no way to send input signals through the USB port on the Vita TV, so now I’m inclined to believe that the DS4 padhack actually uses wireless to communicate.
The stick works perfectly about 90% of the time, and I’m unsure how these symptoms could present as such if it were a wiring issue. Keep in mind that I have two different sticks modded by two different professional modders (VickoMods and Marvelous Customs) that are both doing this.
None of these tests involve Remote Play. I was playing Vita UMVC3 on the Vita TV, and PS4 Xrd directly on the PS4.
I didn’t do the mod, but as I understand it, there is a hard selector switch between the PS4 padhack and the rest of the boards (IMP2+MCC+Qanba 360) in my stick. When it’s in PS4 mode, none of the Qanba logic (e.g. LEDs, turbo, etc.) works.
Ultimately, I really just need to test this with another PS4 fighting game and see whether or not this is just an Xrd problem. The pickings are slim right now, though.
Dumb question but does this happen when using a regular DS4 with usb?
I don’t play on pad so it’s hard to say.
http://www.kyoob3.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/animated_papers.gif
@Vicko I give up on this guy, if you want to take the case by all means.
I am washing my hands of this one.
That’s a rather rude and curt way of saying you’re stumped.
Not stumped. Tired would be a better word.
For the dual shock 4, it’s all wireless. The USB port usage is limited to the very beginning of the transaction between the DS4 and PS4 wherein it grabs the bluetooth address and link key… after that, it’s a wireless setup. There is no way to force the dual shock 4 into a wired mode, this is why it works on the Vita TV.
The only true wired hacks right now are the HORI pads and the PDP pads.
For that random lag on XRD, I would grab a spare dual shock 4 and try it out. You may not normally play on pad but if the lag is as bad as you say, it should be easily replicated.
edit: If you want to wash your hands of me, please be my guest. Your replies to me have not been helpful in either of the threads about these sticks I have posted in.
Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. The problem with testing on a DS4 pad is that the lag is intermittent; I can play for an hour on the sticks and have it not show up. But let’s suppose that I sit down and test with the pad… what would it indicate if the pad has lag, and conversely, what would it indicate if the pad doesn’t have lag?
On a side note, is it possible to wire in a higher gain antenna (or something similar) to the padhack? And what would the impact of this padhack be at a tournament that banned wireless controls?
edit: You mentioned that there’s no way to force the DS4 into wired mode… I presume this is referring to PS4 only? Because I’ve been using a wired DS4 on PC (for FFXIV) since shortly after the DS4 came out.
Well if you find lag with the unmodified 1st party pad then your setup may have an issue, and it’s not the mod. I don’t really know what would cause weird lag like that, but the DS4 PCB could be bugged… that’s just a test to narrow where the problem you seem to be having is.
Wire in a higher gain? Sure I suppose… but that might get a little complicated since I’m betting Sony’s design team made sure they have the best signal possible without breaking FCC rules, and really won’t buy you anything. Unless you plan on playing from like the neighbor’s yard or something.
And yeah, DS4 wireless is only for the PS4 or Vita. On PC or PS3, and anything similar that accepts HID standard controllers, it would be in a wired configuration.
I was thinking that one way to check if it’s a signal strength issue would be to just take a DS4 as far as away as possible and see if the symptoms are similar.
Upon playing with the sticks a bit more, I did notice that one of them actually stopped transmitting input altogether and the PS4 gave me a “The Dual Shock 4 has been disconnected” message. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, pushed the PS button, and it was fine. I haven’t been able to reproduce this, though.
EDIT
I found out that in Xrd to have the touchpad button working on top of the button pressing it needs also the capacitive touch.
Try to press the touchpad (while playing Xrd) with a thick glove on your hand (or something else to isolate) and you’ll get no response (or a iffy response if the isolation is not enough).
Now we have to find a way to get a constant capacitive touch.
/EDIT
Could it be that you need to have the touchpad’s cable (and the touchpad) still inserted in the pcb to have it working for Xrd?
I’m going to hack my ds4 in the next days so I haven’t tested it yet but it seems an educated guess.
I came to that very same conclusion a few pages back.
I read your post (in fact I read carefully the entire thread) but when you said that pressing the tact button on the JDM-020 didn’t trigger the reset of characters’ positions I pictured it like you were doing it with only the bare pcb already stripped of everything.
Instead when you said the reset worked by pressing the touchpad on a DS4 I thought you were doing it on a not disassembled ds4.
The use of the term JDM-020 (the pcb revision) first and then DS4 (the name of the pad itself) led me to pictured your post this way.
Hence this misunderstanding 
What about emulating the capacitivity of the human body?
I read a few articles and seems quite a problem.
Here’s one I haven’t come across before:
I bought a bare JDM-001 from Akishop earlier in the year. I just finished installing it in a customer mod and after testing I find that it times out after 8 minutes, which would mean a Bluetooth issue. I’m thinking these Akishop PCBs are dodgy as fuck (factory rejects or something) - I posted previously in the Xbox One pad-hack thread about a dodgy PCB bought from Focus-Attack (sourced from Akishop). I’ve never had this issue on Dual Shock 4s that I’ve personally gutted.
Hello everyone. First of all: sorry for my English.
I have read all discussion, and don’t get this comment. @Kayo1, how you make L1 and R1 buttons work without inverting them?
that’s in a single PCB setup. In order to work with another PCB in a common ground dual/tri/quad mod setup, it will need to be inverted.
It’s exactly what i need. I’m not planning to use my stick with Xbox One.
In this case, do I need to connect pins 1 and 2 to L1 and pins 15 and 16 to R1 without resistors, to make them work? Sorry if I missed someone’s earlier explanation about it.
Personally I would use a different PCB like FC4 or MKX since they are already CG which means you can dual mod later and they have system selection built in.
But, to answer your question, you do need to add resistors on 3-4 and 17-18 for R2 and L2 respectively, and solder to 4 and 18
Wire L1 and R1 to 2 and 16 by themselves.
I will only be playing GG Xrd and SFV. And since they are Sony’s exclusives, I don’t need other systems compatibility.
Thank you for clear explanation.) If it will not bother you too much, can you explain for what purpose pins 1 and 15 serving?