I’ve never had the touch pad button work for practice resetting in GGXrrd for any of the Dual Shock 4 pad hacks I’ve done. Pressing the tact button itself doesn’t work either.
It does for injustice from what I’m told.
The touchpad worked for me only the very first time I played GGXrd. I was stoked because I read that everyone was having issues with the touchpad. The next time I booted up GG, the touchpad was completely unresponsive and has been ever since. I dont mind at all that I have to go into the menu to reset positions though, since the menu keeps the cursor on my previous selection. Im really hoping SFV handles position resets just like guilty gear.
I’m thinking about assembling my first arcade stick (PS4 only) and wonder a few things (which may be completely stupid…).
I’ll need 5V for leds and optical stick PCB. It seems the usual way would be to get 5V from the USB, and use the stick wired. Problem is as long as the stick is plugged into USB, leds will be on (my Dualshock 4 is plugged into a wall charger most of the time, as it avoids having a long wire running to the console)… and I don’t like it any much more than having to manually unplug and replug it between each session.
Would it be possible to collect the 5V from somewhere on the PCB- such a 5V that would turn into 0V when the PS4 is shut off or the stick not associated with the PS4 anymore?
I’ve read there seems to be a pin near the power management chip on the Dualshock 4 which gives 6V, supposedly for the vibration motors. Could it be transformed into 5V, and used to power the leds and optical PCB?
Battery pack?
Hello, I need help with the R1 and L1, I make the circuit and left me holding the buttons, is the right thing to do?
excuse my English, translator google, I speak Spanish XD
it’s okay?
It’d be the same as to having to set it on and off manually. What would be great would be associating the stick with the home button, which would then set led and optical stick on, in one action.
Being able to run the stick purely wireless would be cool too. Now, even in the case of pure unplugged wireless, on battery, it would be more enjoyable to have a battery (hopefully bigger than stock) inside the case, not hanging from an external cord.
Anyway, that’s not what I yearn on the most (most of the time, I plan to have the stick communicating with the PS4 through bluetooth, while having it plugged on a wall charger just next to where I sit). What I’d like would be seamless powering on & off, stick and console, in one action- which would require the 5V to come and go from the Dualshock 4.
Need help, when wiring for the button inversion. if i am keeping the usb/ribbon where can I solder the vcc wire to? without taking off the usb port, it is very tight to solder anything in. I am using the JDM 011 board. thanks in advanced.
@Gummo
I’m trying to Hex Inverter method for the Dead Bug Circuit. However, after wiring up the Hex Inverter according to the instructions provided by @Gummo the buttons are constantly pressed. Can anyone give me an idea of what I’m missing or what I’ve done wrong? Attached is a picture of how I have it wired up and the buttons labeled (because I used the same color for all the wires). Thanks in advance!
Looks like you’re grounding the 10k ohm resistors. Take out that wire you have on the chip from pin 1 from pin 7, can’t tell if you also have another grounded wire from the other side.
Thanks @Rudeshadow! My mistake was adding grounds to the two wires going out to L1 and R1 to the stick inputs. I was trying to get smart and pre-emptively prevent what happened to one poster from happening to me. In doing so, I created my own problem. In the future, I’ll just follow the instructions. LOL!
i see why gunmo you charge 160 for this now lol will be contacting you soon just for the ps4 mod.
If the timing don’t work right go to 2:32 “I understand now”
Is it possible to use the switch that toggles the consoles on the TE2 or qanba4? I want to get rid of the dpdt switch for the xbox 360/xbone pad hack.
Pics of DS4 padhacks with screw terminals I’ve made.
Padhack PS4 pad with screw terminals, and female B USB connector. Analog boxes removed for extra low profile, .75" in height, should fit into any case.
Pad #1
Pad #2
Beautiful job.
You might want to look into the third party options now as they are much easier to deal with and you don’t have to worry about it being in a dual mod setup and turning on wireless when home is pressed.
Yeah 3rd party pads are super easy compared to the DS4 and there will be some 3rd party pad mods coming soon. I still have a small stock of DS4 pads I need to use up as well.
Beautiful work guys! I’m about to attend my first PS4 padhack, with no dual mod, just need it to work with the PS4. would I still need all those resistors for a clean PS4 padhack? (sorry if I missed something)
@kkolding Yes, you are going to need to use resistors. I would also advise you to use the Inverter Chip Trigger Mod by Toodles on the first page for R1 and L1. It’s a hard mod to do but it can be done if you have lots of past experience soldering. Gummo’s guide on the first page is very good and will help you out a lot.
I am also having problems with PS4 Xrd. Let me go into detail:
Randomly, the stick gets INCREDIBLY lagged; so lagged that I can’t even accurately pick a character on the select screen. Inputs get 1+ second delayed, or are sometimes ignored completely, or in other cases will come out late and then persist (e.g. I quickly tap right, nothing happens for a second, then my character walks right for 3 seconds).
I have two separate Qanba Q2 Glows that were padhacked with Sony DS4s and are on hard switches between PS4 mode and [everything else] mode. I’ve tried the PS4 mode on PS3 Xrd and played without issue for quite a while.
Here’s the thing that’s confuses me the most: I also have a PS Vita TV, which has a USB port that cannot be used for wired controllers. Yet when I plug my PS4 padhacked stick in, it works on that port; I played Vita UMVC3 for an hour and it worked perfectly. So this makes me think that the wireless on my padhack is being used to communicate with the Vita TV (while it receives power through the USB cable).
If the stick is actually communicating wirelessly in PS4 mode, would this explain the lag problems? The Q2 Glow has a chrome powdercoat and all the electronics are on the inside, which may be affecting the signal. Furthermore, the single worst time I had with PS4 Xrd (when even navigating the main menu was nearly impossible) was the first time I booted it up, when it was downloading the updates to the game (over WiFi) and I was trying to go into practice mode.
Any suggestions?