Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead

Tech Talk
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I uploaded them to my google+ account. Just haven’t swapped out the links in the posts yet. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107748605737553360193/albums/6074909172178626849

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So since Evo has the PS4 as the console of choice for USF4, I wanted to look at the steps of a DS4 padhack here just in case Madcatz doesn’t have a fightpad solution in time for release. All the photos aren’t working right now though… :frowning:

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You literally didn’t read the post right before yours:

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Checked only the first post. My bad. I think I skimmed over that part.

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Perhaps pardon the sillyness of this question, BUT… is there a way to install a DS4 padhack into a stick, so that one could turn on the system via the PS/Home button (when unplugged), in essence wirelessly, and then choose whether or not they want to remain wireless (BT) or plug in, and have it function as any other wired stick?

Soooo… basically, both of both worlds?

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Plug the stick into a rechargeable usb battery.

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Oh… well… I see then. So the answer is yes? ._.

I think I read somewhere earlier in this thread about cutting traces on the pcbs, so as long as one doesn’t do that… they’d have the option to wired or wireless play via DS4 install?

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The trace cutting to disable wireless was in the xb1 thread.

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…touché.

Oh, and is there a reason that simply being plugged into the PS4 system wouldn’t (when needed of course) recharge the battery?

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I’m looking to add a padhacked DS4 to this 360 TE/Kitty combo. What would be the difference between running the leads off the DS4 to the Kitty red board versus the Madcatz green board?

The rig is pictured below. The Kitty & MC combo are locked & loaded but the DS4 pictured is yet to be wired, but pictured for sake of continuity.

Spoiler

http://i.imgur.com/BTbJi66.jpg[/details]

[details=Spoiler][img]http://i.imgur.com/egpKqiY.jpg

Thanks in advance.

Ohh… I almost forgot. I’m looking to add an imp v2 to this mix, in my efforts to eliminate the need of a physical switch. I know there’s been talk of this method, but has anyone attempted this method here yet? Pics? My thought being that because the MC360 & Kitty act extensively as one board, with all it’s auto detection & running off the identical USB and all, that I couldn’t have a more ideal scenario for adding an imp. The goal being that everything (360TE, Kitty, & DS4) speaks through the stock USB cable of the TE, and withOUT the need of a switch or holding a modifier button (…is that even possible?) when playing PS4. From the pics you can see I DO have a Neutrik RJ45 mounted, but it’s used exclusively for legacy. Thoughts welcome & appreciated.

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Probably would want to wire the ds4 to the kitty. Electronicly it won’t matter it’s just which is physically easier to solder to.

If you imp it you will have to hold a button to switch between ps4 and the kitty setup. If you have a rj45 jack installed with the kitty hooked up to it you could just have a usb cable wired to the ds4 and kept in the cord compartment and leave the rj45 jack used for everything else.

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Ahhh, okay, gotcha.

One question… I’m sure you’re familiar with the guide LEDs on the control panel that light when you input joystick & push buttons (when not playing on 360). What then has to be done/soldered to retain that when in ps4 mode? I love that detail. Losing that would be shitty after being spoiled with it for so long.

Now that’s if I wanted to selfishly run all 3 boards via one USB, that I would need to hold a button upon start up, correct?

By this, you mean leave the USB cable running from the mount to the Kitty terminals, and remove the stock/compartment USB cable that is attached as well to the Kitty board’s terminals & instead wire it directly to the DS4 for a switchless (button hold, imp, or otherwise) method?

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  1. Donno if the player light thing will work while in ps4 mode. Either it will or it won’t on its own account. I’m leaning on it won’t and there’s nothing you can do about it.

  2. If you wanted to run everything through one connection (rj45 jack) yes.

3.I’m too drunk to comprehend that. Usb cable that fits in compartment goes to ds4. Rj45 on the kitty goes to mounted neutrik rj45 in stick.

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Hahaha… understood, understood. Yeah, this helps with moving forward. And you know what, the confusion was my mistake; I misspoke. I meant to say “…you mean leave the RJ45 cable (…not USB) running from the mount to the Kitty terminals…”, but you got it. Thanks again.

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Hi guys, I have a custom made arcadestick with de dualshock 4 pcb and it worked perfectly on injustice but i am having problems to play guilty gear xrd with it , does anyone have any adivice?

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About that (DS4&Kitty + ImpV2)… My question is whether or not I can then simply unplug the end of the ethernet cable that is going into the Kitty board (that then runs to the mounted Neutrik passthrough) currently, and plug it into the passthrough of the imp board, and voila?

…Is it really that simple? I’m willing to bet that you could guess what I’m hoping it is that you’ll say.

Additionally, how much do you charge for DS4 padhack w/screwdown terminals if the customer provides the DS4? And how many connections populate the screw terminals (including the Home, Options, Share, & touchscreen button)? Are there enough free terminals to include the lines that would normally come from the USB pcb (and subsequently to the Imp(…?) board) so that ideally the USB pcb is no longer needed?

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Is there any downside to using a hori ps4 pad for a padhack over the first party ps4 controler?

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no touchpad button to do practice resets.

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If that is it then I will be just fine. Is there any known issues when trying to dual mod the hfc4 with the hori xbox one pad.

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Nope