This is the first thread I have started here and I hope it is helpful to some people. I have never done a tutorial so feel free to ask if I have left anything out. The purpose of this guide is to give you an idea of how to dual mod your xbox 360 se with a cthulhu or any other board really. Note I also made this compatible with gamecube and wii since it is a MC cthlhu. Toodles already has a guide for this here
First I prepped all my button connection. Basically I just soldered the extra cable to the bottom of the qd’s coming off the terminal strip. Run each of these cables to the apporiate point on the cthulhu or whatever ocb you might be adding. In my case I decided to wire the home key to the back button.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1417/dsc01139a.jpg
Instead of messing with the cable harness I made a direct connection to each direction. The harness is still connected directly to the madcatz board. All these will go to their appropriate spot on the new pcb.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9707/dsc01140.jpg
Solder one line to the vcc and one to the ground on the pcb that has the usb cable coming out. These will go into the vcc and ground found on the other pcb in my case the cthulhu. This is the only ground that needs to run to the cthulhu.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6541/dsc01142p.jpg
I added an extra button to be select for ps3 or Z on gamecube. I only did this because I wired home to the back button. My reason for this is I didn’t want to have the home jey on the face of the stick.
a single USB cable actually contains a handful of internal wires. these wires are as follows:
power
ground
data (+)
data (-)
since both 360 & PS3 controllers use a USB connection, you can design a system where both PCB’s share a single cable. the catch is that you can only transmit one PCB output at a time. imagine the PCB’s are speaking a language. the 360 PCB is speaking English & the PS3 PCB is speaking Japanese. if the both are speaking at the same time, the result is neither English or Japanese; its unintelligible gibberish.
power & ground can be continuously supplied to both, however the +/- data lines must be dedicated one way or the other… thus the DPDT switch. this allows only “english” or only “japanese” to be transmitted along the cable.
The Cable on the left is my usb out. The D+ and D- are each soldered to a point in the middle row of the DPDT switch. The D+ and D- coming from each pcb are soldered to the ooutside points. All three VCC and Ground lines are soldered together.
Instead of soldering directly to the microswitches I modded the harness and put a barrier strip in the middle. I kept the ground intact and each direction is going to the strip. For reference from left to right the points are DOWN,UP,LEFT,RIGHT,GROUND.
AWESOME! So Generally speaking, it’s safe to say (when dealing with madcatz hardware):
RED = VCC
GREEN = D+ (or D- if white is D+)
WHITE = D- (or D+ if green is D-)
When you cut open the madcatz USB cable, you only have to worry about wiring the RED(VCC) and the GREEN and WHITE wires for the DPDT switch? And taking ground into account also and that all the buttons/direction are wired to the barrier strip(s). I’ve never cut open a USB cable before, I’m not sure if there’s more than the RED/WHITE/GREEN/BLACK wires inside.
USB cables are only four wires
Red=vcc
Black=ground
The wires coming from each cable(3 of each) get soldered directly to each other.
Green and white coming from each pcb get wired to opposite poles on the switch. Green and white from the USB cable going to the system gets wired to the middle.
lightbulb just went off in my head, i just saw the big picture of what’s going on. essentially “splicing” in the 360 PCB USB output with the PS3 USB already present, but they can’t both be “talking” at the same time which is where the DPDT switch comes in. I can’t wait to see some IMP switches in action, as I’m very curious to see what the final product looks like.
