The Onza is truly a superior controller to the madcatz cheaper replica of the first party. Many people myself included also find it to far superior to the official Microsoft controller which is what Razer intended, so if the controller did turn out to be non-common ground I would go about removing the anlogs and microswitches face button and retro-fit them to a common ground PCB
also as for the housing being too small that could always be worked around a remolded larger back plate is not difficult nothing obsessive just larger in certain areas to accommodate for the extra PCB
The only difficult and costly part it getting full analog support for 360 and PS3
The cheapest way to accomplish this sort of mod would be to retro fit psx/ps2 pcb apply a daughter board for face buttons and analogs and just use a inpin or tokki 360 adapter for either system
I’m just talk in out my ass/brainstorming
That’s what I’m doing, too. Everyone’s different backgrounds give new ideas, it’s great.
That’s another option. I don’t know what exactly is inside the Onza (I think I read somewhere that they use actual tact switches rather than membranes, which is kinda cool), but depending on the parts they use, it could be tricky to do a full transplant. Without the original PCB in place, it can be tricky lining up the switches, etc. Usually joysticks are on their own daughterboard (as they need to be shifted above or below the plane of the primary PCB), so they wouldn’t be too hard, but making sure that the buttons don’t change in “feel” or “travel” (or get looser) with a transplant can be a very tricky proposition. That’s why Dual-Modding struck me as the better option, if it would be feasible to do an install at all, room-wise. The Teensy (or a similar board), plus a very small Chimp/similar, is probably the cleanest installation you can get.
another idea to throw out there, what about project boxing the pad?
you could just run something like a db25 cable out of the onza to a project box to get rid of the space saving constraint.
You could then just cut all the traces leading to each signal if it wasn’t a CG board (which probably is)
and then just hook it up to the signals necessary in a project box using something that is CG (e.g. a 4716) and then work with the teensy inside the PB.
The only downside is the MFB’s on top of the bumpers won’t have the nice remap function anymore unless someone programs something to help with that.
Also, test for CG status if you have a multimeter handy.
DB25’s are huge, compared to pad controllers. Project-boxing it isn’t a horrible idea, though… but I find analogue inputs can be kinda finnicky when you’re trying that (they’re more sensitive to noise in the environment).
As for the MFB’s, how are they programmed? It wouldn’t be too hard to add that to a Teensy program for this purpose; the Teensy will have leftover inputs when all is said and done, I believe, so a couple extra buttons for the MFB’s plus a program would be easy enough to make soft buttons.
If the board isn’t CG… I don’t even want to think about this project. It basically has to be a full-guts replacement no matter what at that point, and that’s simply inelegant and frustrating.
EDIT: And d3v: Stop suggesting the smart solution. Where’s the fun in that?
i meant just run the cable out of the onza rather than actually use one header on the other side of the onza when it came to the db25 cable
the MFBs just let you map any button on the pad to the MFB you want to use, (e.g my gears layout has left MFB set to b and my right MFB is set to A) it shouldnt be hard to program for sure
I ment to take pictures but at the time a took it apart and I went to cut on my camera and nothing kaput so I had to send it off to get fixed and I forgot to test for common ground
long story short check your camera before you take shit apart lol
The dual strike smd uses the ATMEGA168 microchip which does have ADC pins, but I don’t think it has enough to support two analog sticks. I have no intention of reproducing any more dual strike smd boards. If I were to make any more boards it would be using a bigger and better chip with built-in usb hardware and enough ADC pins to support both analog sticks and triggers so that I could either use it for dual modding a stick or 360 pad.
For anyone who does want to dual mod this pad (providing its common ground, which I can check since I managed to obtain one at seasons beatings) can do so using a [MC] Cthulhu. A lot of that board can be hacked off and can even be cut down to the size roughly the same size as the dual strike smd. Of course you wouldn’t have the analog sticks work on ps3, but you can hack the left analog stick to function as the dpad.
Have you played with the AT90USB AVR’s, or any of the other hardware-USB chips yet? They’re wonderful little uC’s; combine them w/ LUFA and USB development is spectacularly easy.
Problem still is the lack of analogue support; unfortunately, OP was looking specifically for analogue support for FPS’s. If it’s big enough to fit an MC-Cthulhu, though, it should be more than big enough for a Teensy/AT90USBKey. I totally forgot, but I have a Teensy lying around from a previous project (needed it smaller, so I ported the final code down from a Teensy++ and then never used the Teensy again). Maybe I should take a crack at developing a HID game controller firmware for it; could be an interesting weekend project. Anyone know if there’s anything weird about how the PS3 talks to HID controllers with analogue sticks, etc? I know lots of generic HID controllers work, but I don’t know that I’ve seen one with analogue support.
Can anyone find a pcb diagram for this? the analoghe sticks keep pressing down so its useless as a controller, but havent found any padhackign pcb diagrams for the razor onwa proffesional
get your multi meter out and test for your grounds and signals it should be a super simple hack just don’t forget to remap the triggers to the extra bumper buttons so you don’t have to invert the triggers
